I also like to use the spray lube, but since he has purchased an old fashioned lube pad and started to use it, I think it would be a good idea if he learned how to use the lube pad and get to the point where he could size cases without getting cases stuck and without getting lube dents. At that point, I think he should again try his spray lube, and I think his experience with the lube pad will help him learn how to use the lube spray properly. It will also allow him to use a lube pad with confidence if the time comes when he has no lube spray available for a while. As I said earlier, a lube pad is cheaper than spray lube.
I used both today, 150 with the lube pad and 150 with the one shot. Both work equally well. The diffrence with the one-shot is I waited until it dried this time. Once I figured out I was lubing them wrong everything went very smoothly. Using the one shot spray worked like most everyone said. I did notice the press tends to complain long before the case goes all the way into the press if I missed a spot.
When using spray lube, I also put my cases in a plastic block and spray from both sides. Before spraying, however, I use a bore brush with some pad lube on it to clean the inside of the case necks and put a little lube on the inside of the necks. I have always found this to be very effective when sizing bottleneck cases. Like the other folks, I also let the lube dry a few minutes before sizing.
I used my work bench and sprayed all of them. It is a little hard standing 150 up without having them fall down. I haven't tried lubing the inside yet. Right now I'm trimming all of them to 2.0155. Before anyone comments. the Hornady die is set to crimp at the same location each time as long as the cases are trimmed the same after getting it set up. I also did a "dummy" round and set my die up to that.
When it comes to removing lube after sizing, I do something most folks do not care to do. I use gasoline to wash the lube off empty sized cases and dry them in a towel. If using the progressive press, I simply take the finished round and wash it in gasoline before drying on a towel. I then use a vibratory cleaner to shine the cases of the finished rounds. For those who are worried, I use less than a quart of gas at a time, and when finished, I put the gas back in a sealed can for future use. It's not expensive and it's no more dangerous than working with gun powder.
I used Dawn dishwashing liquid, (something I learned when I wanted to strip all the wax off my bike.) Works too. I also used a hair dryer to dry the cases. I just stood them primer end up in my block, (home made, 100 cases in each), what didn't evaporate drained down the hole in the block.
I would also suggest you learn how to prime cases properly with your L&L single stage press. Once you have learned to do that with the press, you may want to try priming cases with a hand primer instead of the single stage press. I primed on my RockChucker for many years before I tried a Lee Auto Prime hand tool. Once I tried it, I have used one ever since for my single stage reloading. As I said before, with my progressive press, I find the priming function to work very well for me.
The press I got came with a hand primer tool. What I saw on the instructions indicated I had to buy a primer tube and attach it to the press. It apparently decaps and primes at the same time. I think I'm sticking with the handheld tool for now. Once I get this big batch of .308's (512) done it won't be so bad. My next bunch is going to be the Garand rounds I've been saving for a year, but that's only 200.
I used both today, 150 with the lube pad and 150 with the one shot. Both work equally well. The diffrence with the one-shot is I waited until it dried this time. Once I figured out I was lubing them wrong everything went very smoothly. Using the one shot spray worked like most everyone said. I did notice the press tends to complain long before the case goes all the way into the press if I missed a spot.
When using spray lube, I also put my cases in a plastic block and spray from both sides. Before spraying, however, I use a bore brush with some pad lube on it to clean the inside of the case necks and put a little lube on the inside of the necks. I have always found this to be very effective when sizing bottleneck cases. Like the other folks, I also let the lube dry a few minutes before sizing.
I used my work bench and sprayed all of them. It is a little hard standing 150 up without having them fall down. I haven't tried lubing the inside yet. Right now I'm trimming all of them to 2.0155. Before anyone comments. the Hornady die is set to crimp at the same location each time as long as the cases are trimmed the same after getting it set up. I also did a "dummy" round and set my die up to that.
When it comes to removing lube after sizing, I do something most folks do not care to do. I use gasoline to wash the lube off empty sized cases and dry them in a towel. If using the progressive press, I simply take the finished round and wash it in gasoline before drying on a towel. I then use a vibratory cleaner to shine the cases of the finished rounds. For those who are worried, I use less than a quart of gas at a time, and when finished, I put the gas back in a sealed can for future use. It's not expensive and it's no more dangerous than working with gun powder.
I used Dawn dishwashing liquid, (something I learned when I wanted to strip all the wax off my bike.) Works too. I also used a hair dryer to dry the cases. I just stood them primer end up in my block, (home made, 100 cases in each), what didn't evaporate drained down the hole in the block.
I would also suggest you learn how to prime cases properly with your L&L single stage press. Once you have learned to do that with the press, you may want to try priming cases with a hand primer instead of the single stage press. I primed on my RockChucker for many years before I tried a Lee Auto Prime hand tool. Once I tried it, I have used one ever since for my single stage reloading. As I said before, with my progressive press, I find the priming function to work very well for me.
The press I got came with a hand primer tool. What I saw on the instructions indicated I had to buy a primer tube and attach it to the press. It apparently decaps and primes at the same time. I think I'm sticking with the handheld tool for now. Once I get this big batch of .308's (512) done it won't be so bad. My next bunch is going to be the Garand rounds I've been saving for a year, but that's only 200.
When I saw them, (after about 60 cases) I stopped and cleaned both dies. (wish they had an icon for "dumb ass").
