Got my T/C Contender, 10" .223 w/ Burris 4x EER for $250, many questions...

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For those who've been advising me on my re-entry into T/Cs:

I was going to part it together onto my Early T/C receiver, with parts off eBay. Figured it would run me about $400 to get all the parts I needed.

Then I discovered that my Early Frame T/C will only take octagonal barrels. So then I was looking at $200 or so (after shipping/FFL) to get a newer receiver.

I dimly recalled that my favorite pawnshop had some old T/Cs rusting in the back of a case full of IJ revolvers, 10% finish Colt Pockets, etc. So I head down and find that they have almost _exactly_ what I wanted.

T/C Contender
10" .223 barrel (I wanted 14", but hey...)
Weaver rings/base
Burris 4X EER scope
Pachmayr grip and forend

They were asking $699, I got them down to $450 OTD for the T/C, "this old beat-up .22 scope" (Weaver K4), "whatever this magazine is in the spares box" (Beretta 1951 9mm mag), and "they don't even make ammo for this" T/C .357 Herrett barrel w/ Leupold base and rings.

I figure all the other gear is worth about $200 or more, so I've got maybe $250 into the T/C itself.

The bore appears to have one or two points of corrosion in it. Does that mean it's a tomato-stake, or just that it might have some minor decrease in precision? Any advice on a product to clean and smooth up the bore?

Oh, and how the devil do I get the freckling out of the engraving on the receiver? Flitz and a Q-tip? Any better ideas?

On the downside, I'd already bought a Pachy T/C grip on eBay just two days ago, and now need to sell my old receiver to somebody who uses octagon barrels. Is there any better place to sell these than on THR?

One other quick question: the receiver on my new T/C is of some intermediary generation: still adjusts rim/center firing pins with a screwdriver, but has a safety and skeleton-hammer. Is this still a decent receiver?

I'll go get it sighted in this weekend, will try 55gr WWB in my 1:12 twist. I'll stick with this barrel for now, and if I like it I may spring for a custom in a year or two, with a faster twist.

Thanks for any advice,

-Matthew
 
I don't understand why your frame wouldn't take bull barrels? all barrels are the same diameter out to at least the hinge pin or maybe a little further. I had a frame from the middle 1970's and it would take in octagon or bull barrel.
 
I have an encore. You got a great deal on the contender.

I would not worry about a few spots in the barrel at all. I have a Hi Power with a down right ugly barrel (in side its corroded bad) and its a fine shooter.

If yours is blue be careful with the flitz as it can take the blue off. I have cleaned up a few rifles and pistols with 000 fine steel wool and a light oil. Don't use any pressure, just go over it very lightly. Again you can scratch or remove the blue but I have never harmed one, just go lightly. A q tip over a thin piece of the steel wool may clean it up just fine.
 
I'm perplexed by the "only takes octagon barrels" thing, too. :confused:

Sounds like a good deal and a couple of boo boos in the barrel do not make it a tomato stake. :D Shoot it and see how well it does. I bet it'll be okay.

I've got an old TC frame, kind you use a screw driver to turn the insert in the hammer face to change from rim fire to center fire. I guess it's one of the early frames. I have bull barrels and one octagon for it. As was said, the octagon don't start until past the pivot.
 
"Early Frame T/C will only take octagonal barrels."

:confused: Must be REAL old as my 73 frame takes both!I never heard of this before! If it is true I'd be willing to bet that OLD reciever is worth some $ to a T/C collector somewhere!
 
Well, turns out he wasn't kidding: they aren't compatible

A certain authority on T/C Contenders advised me that my Early frame was only compatible with certain barrels.

After reading the responses here, I (like a twit) decided to test this out, and mounted the .357 Herrett barrel on the Early frame. Fit just fine, locked up and everything. Now, however, it won't come out. The frame, which released the old 45/410 octagon barrel just fine, refuses to let go of the .357 Herrett.

I tried it with and without the frame bolt, and no dice. Still cocks and drops hammer just fine, but simply won't let the barrel go. Without the frame bolt, the barrel will come about 1/4 inch away from the frame, but refuses to release fully. It's got wiggle room, but no releasing.

I put it down before I could get frustrated and do something dumb. I'm sure there's a workable solution; any ideas?

(P.S. the .223 Contender still looks great, will get it sighted in on Fri or so)

-MV
 
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I don't understand ? You can't drift out the pin?:confused:
I remember that some nickle plated barrels will stick in old frames but....???
 
I don't understand ? You can't drift out the pin?

Pin/bolt comes out just fine. Lever will pull back somewhat, and I feel that something is disengaging in the frame, but the barrel still won't come out.

It's hung up on some mechanical part, so I don't want to muscle it. It had some wiggle, but simply will not come loose.

The odd thing is, the way it's in loose now, I can cock and decock the hammer repeatedly, which this model CANNOT do when the barrel is fully engaged.

It's stuck in a very weird T/C limbo right now. I'm sure there's an easy solution. I'll sleep on it, tackle it with a fresh brain in the morning.

If anyone has any other ideas, feel free to chime in,

-MV
 
If you drop the trigger group you can use a screw driver to disengage the barrel lugs. The lock up problem can be just about anything. I had one frame that was just real picky on which barrels it would accept fo no apparent mechanical reason at all, even had T/C puzzled. Try these guys to get a definative answer. http://specialtypistols.infopop.cc/eve
Several guys on there make there living on these pistols and the rest know them like the back of their hand.
 
Okay, got it figured out.

I removed the screw and spring which return the triggerguard lever. That allowed me to pull the lever back far enough to crack the action and remove the barrel.

I'll just sell the .357 Herrett barrel on eBay to ammortize my costs. Looking for rimfire-groove Weaver rings to mount my Weaver K4 on my Marlin 75C carbine, and going out to sight in my .223 T/C on Monday.

-MV
 
My 22 Hornet has a few spots in the barrel that I wish weren't there. But you know it doesn't do a damn thing to the accuracy.

If it were closer to the end of the barrel then it might do somthing, I think. But if the spots are closer to the chamber, you should be fine.

That Herret is a damn find caliber...I don't need it, but I guarrantee that there isn't a hog in Texas that could stand up to a 200 gr. core lokt out of that barrel. You might want to think about just keeping it off to the side in case that "itch" happens to hit you. :)

Hell, you can always try to put a gun-kote finish on the frame... :)

D
 
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