gp-100 357 forcing cone

Status
Not open for further replies.

stonebuster

Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2016
Messages
2,240
Location
northeast
I just noticed while cleaning I have forcing cone erosion on a 7 month old gp. I've shot Perfecta fmj 158grain 357mag and 38 specials 158 grain @ 1000 rounds. Also shot Winchester 125/130 grain @ 300 rounds. Seems to be excessive wear to me. I've cleaned the gun right after each trip to range. My question: Is this excessive wear that I should contact Ruger about? I've shot no handloads or anything under the 125grain.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0123.JPG
    IMG_0123.JPG
    81.9 KB · Views: 394
thanks for the reply. The Lewis lead kit is on my list. Been using a brass brush. Maybe the picture isn't clear enough to show that what started at a 90degree angle on the inside edge of the forcing cone is now rounded off. Looks like more to me than lead build up.
 
The picture is very clear. Goggle "lead splatter on forcing cone". You will find similar pics.

A brass brush generally isn't enough to scour off lead splatter.

I feel certain you will be surprised after using the forcing cone cleaner that comes with the Lewis kit.
 
Last edited:
You might also try a stainless steel brush in .44 size instead of a brass .357 brush. The stainless bristles are much stiffer and the one-size-up will clean the lead much better. I always use one-size-up with my brass brushes. Just don't overdo it with the stainless brushes. For lead cleaning they do well. Also shoot Jacketed Bullets following lead, as the jackets also clean lead to a degree.
 
Try a "stainless" tooth brush. Brush briskly at 90deg across the barrel extension. Also the inside of the frame. But yeah, erosion is unavoidable. But it will take far more than you've got to reduce accuracy significantly.
Chute it!!!
 
Appreciate the feedback and will be very happy if lead is all it is and minor erosion. I should have specified the brass brush I was using on the cone was a large toothbrush type. I bought the gp new after I rented one at the range. Decided on the Ruger because of their reputation as rugged reliable guns that you won't wear out. I liked it so much I bought another new gp-100 stainless with the 5 inch barrel last week. I have my father-in-laws old '67 colt trooper 357 that I loved to shoot but I didn't want to put 1000's of rounds through it. The forcing cone on that colt shows no sign of wear, but I don't know many rounds it fired. Probably only fired during any mandatory range time that may have been required. Glad I found you website. Always had a few long guns, got my pistol permit last August and got bitten hard by the bug. Now I've got a P226 9mm sig, 9mm S&W performance center shield, blued 4" gp-100, 5" stainless 357 gp, and the 1967 colt trooper. I understand why some of you guys have such large collections now. Thanks again for your help and I'll be lurking around here trying to further educate myself reading your threads and posts.
 
get the lewis lead remover. the brass brush will only polish that lead on the forcing cone.

murf
 
Use a Chore Boy pad on a cleaningng rod. Works.

This is the best solution I have found. Just make sure it is a 100% copper chore boy (a magnet will tell). I cut a few strands off of one and wrap them around a brush to kind of plump it up a bit oversize. Then, with some of your favorite gun cleaner applied to the brush, just run it in and out of the forcing cone a few times. All or most of the lead will be gone in about 5 seconds.

I went through a lot of different "Easiest ways to do it" before I found this one... It really is the easiest method.
 
Another vote for the copper Chore Boy. Often don't even need the gun cleaner to get the bulk of the lead.
 
I checked Brownells and the Lewis kit is OOStock. I think until the Lewis kit comes back in I'll try the chore boy and the JB solvent. I will end up with the Lewis kit. I don't think it's unreasonably priced considering the investment I have with the handguns I have. I spend more than that sometimes with one trip to the range
 
243winxb, could be a combination of lead and erosion starting and will stick with factory 158 grain fmj. Just bought another gp-100 and want to avoid what I'm seeing in my 7 month old gun. I love the gp-100's but despite their reputation, apparently no handgun is impervious to this issue. May be their Achilles heel. Maybe shooting 100-150 round in an hour and 20 minutes or so is heating the barrel up to the point it is more easily damaged. Like I said, handguns are relatively new to me.
 
I hear stories of forcing cone erosion from 125 gr magnums, but have not experienced it. I shoot a lot of them. So, many that a case of 3750 is a regular purchase for me. My favorite Colt King Cobra has had over 30k put thru it. It's forcing cone is still new looking. I just recently cleaned the splatter off. For over 20 years it was covered with splatter from where I shot several thousand lead. 38s when I first got the gun.

I really can't see how one could erode once you had a nice coat of lead splatter on it.
 
I have read a dirty forcing cone can cause hot spots and cause damage. I don't believe everything on internet so I'm doing a lot of research try to "separate the fly sh** from the pepper" as my dad used to say. The counter guy at the range where I bought the gp told me firing a lot of 38 specials is causing my forcing cone wear which is contrary to everything I have read or heard. He said it "can" shoot 38 but it's made for 357mag. I'll file that opinion under the "fly sh** category. I'm going to get the all copper chore boy and JB paste cleaner, clean, shoot the heck out of it in 158 grain and keep an eye on the cone. Tired of fussing over it. Worse case I have to replace barrel. Thanks for all your input. Great website.
 
Sent Ruger CS the photo. they want to examine the gun. Being from Ct. need to get my ct dealer to contact Ruger for RSA # to send it to NH. Not even sure what an RSA is but I guess I'm going to find out.
 
RSA=Return for Service Authorization

Ruger will want to replace that barrel for sure.
My gun was the first pic not the second. Not sure if you're response was based on the cracked cone. Mine doesn't look anything like 243winxb pics. Since the gun was purchased only 5 months ago should I push for a replacement or a fix of the one I have?
 
Stonebuster, your are correct. I was referring to the photo of the cracked forcing cone. Looking back at your picture, I think that your forcing cone is OK except that it has a good bit of lead spatter. A good cleaning with a Lewis Lead Removal tool should make short work of it. If after a thorough cleaning you are not satisfied, send a photo to Ruger for their opinion.
 
Did you ever try Chore Boy or a Lewis Lead Remover?
Brownell's was OOS on the Lewis Lead. I did work the good sized ball of chore boy all copper wrapped around a bore brush. Put the cleaning rod through barrel, attached the bore brush. I twisted it around 'till the cows came home and didn't touch it. Took it to a dealer who took a small knife and carefully tried to scratch a little lead and got nada. Ruger has seen picture and wants the gun sent to them. Gun's on it's way to Ruger. They sent shipping label. Glad I bought a second gp-100 357 5" a few weeks ago. so I'm not 357less.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top