Gp 100 questions

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slim whitman

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Hello everyone.

I am a Smith man but will admit to a secret yearning for a GP 100. I have handled these at the shop and have noticed that when I pull the trigger, the trigger itself pinches my index finger against the frame, inside the guard. Anyone else have this problem?

I know the trigger is considerably thinner than the standard (686) trigger. I think this is the problem. Any suggestions? I would really like a 3 or 4 inch Gp 100.

Thanks in advance

SW:cool:
 
I own two GP100s (wonderful revolvers) and have not experienced this problem.

As a CONFIRMED Smith N Frame addict, I can attest to the GP100’s quality, accuracy, durability, reliability, and toughness. Frankly, I prefer mine to S&W L Frames, although they are certainly outstanding firearms.

Many comments are made re the superiority of S&W’s triggers (crisp break, smoothness, etc.) compared to Ruger's; I agree, but can confirm Ruger triggers improve greatly with use, and they are quite decent (especially SA) right from the box.
 
If it's finger-pinching...errr...you DO know that you're supposed to use the center of your finger pad versus a joint on the trigger, right?

:)

That may provide a VERY simple fix. And this recommended trigger technique is for all guns, not just Rugers - it's how you avoid "pulling" the gun to one side or the other and particularly critical in DAs.
 
In answer to your question, no, I do not have a problem with 'finger pinching'. Hope you figure it out, the GP is a pretty good platform. I use a GP141 for steel plate shoots and it performs wonderfully. As already stated, the trigger smoothes out with use. It's about the same as the trigger on my Smith 686, now.
 
My GP-100 has a very steady, smooth DA pull: it actually holds on target better in DA shooting than most Smiths and Colts that I've owned.

I have encountered no trigger pinching problems, nor heard (until now!) of anyone who has.

Assuming that you look for one that has no cosmetic flaws that slipped past Ruger's Quality Control people, I think the GP-100 is a super revolver!

Lone Star
 
I shot revolver class in IPSC for some time with a GP-100 and now have an SP-101 carry gun--both give me the same problem: pinching of finger between trigger and frame. For IPSC, I solved it by wrapping a layer of adhesive tape around the joint of my finger for matches--worked good, but I'd have to replace the tape every stage or so as it wear through. For my SP-101, I had to do something different since I don't want to go around with my finger taped 24/7, so I took the trigger group out, removed the trigger and worked the inside edge of it with a dremel to round and smooth it off. Now it's great--no pinching at all. Both are viable options to solve the problem.
 
Hmm. I've not had that problem with my GP100, or with others that I've fired at the range. The top of my trigger finger stays clear of the frame. But there are lots of variables in each person's grip -- shape of hand, length and thickness of fingers, etc.

Aftermarket grips might shift your hand, and thus your trigger finger, to a more comfortable place. (I just put a Pachmayr Gripper on my GP, so the topic is on my mind.)
 
Be warned you will spoil yourself. My GP-100 is the least expensive full size handgun in my collection and it has almost singlehandedly cured me of my infatuation with 1911s and semi-autos in general. It is the most accurate shooter I have, it seems to be the most powerful, and it never hiccups. Wolff springs all around and its endlessly customizeable grip have made me think hard about ever buying anything other than a decent wheelgun ever again.
 
Many years ago I had the same problem with a Ruger Speed-Six. I still have that gun and comparing it too my Smiths I have to agree the trigger is thinner and that can account for some of the difference. However I think another problem with the Ruger may be that there is more over-travel after the hammer is released. The Smith leaves more of a gap between the back of the trigger and the trigger guard so the flesh of the index finger doesn't get pinched or at least not as hard.

I solved the problem with the Ruger by having a gunsmith install a trigger stop at the back of the guard. I think what he did was drill a hole of some type through the back of the guard and then installed some kind of a set screw. The solution worked and I have never had a problem with it in 27 years.

Bill
 
First, your pinching is almost certainly linked to "joint resting", and then you probably have somewhat "fat fleshy fingers" so to speak. If switching to the "pad technique" works for you, then you'll probably solve your pinching.

Some people shoot better with the "joint technique", so if the pad system screws up your aim, then...you're going to have to get slightly radical with a dremel tool, rounding the two areas that his skin is being pinched between. If you go slow and don't hose the heat-treat, the good news is that Ruger parts are NOT "surface treated" - the same hardness runs all the way through. This isn't the case with an S&W.

That's why BlackJack's dremel work didn't get him in trouble.

I would think however about taking more metal away from the right-side area of the frame (or trigger guard) behind the trigger, and do as little mods to the trigger as possible (a gentle "breaking of the edge" versus real metal removal). Since the trigger is a high-stress part, leave it as stock as possible.

You might also want to think about doing this on both sides, for emergency off-hand work.
 
What Jim said......

For my GP-100 all that was necessary was to break the edge on the rear corners of the trigger, and the pinching went away.

Mine is the fixed-sight 4" with the smaller grips.

I'd guess that the larger grips of the adjustable sight GP-100 might make a significant difference with the trigger reach, and perhaps 'pinch angles'.
 
I have a Ruger GP-100 stainless, six inch, full underlug, and I think I would let my Pythons leave my collection before I would let this one go! Built like a tank, accurate, and it gives velocities in keeping with the Ruger tradition-fast! Mine still wears the factory rubber and wood stocks, they just seem to fit my hand perfectly. Someone at Sturm, Ruger & Company had their thinking caps turned up to the highest setting when they designed the GP-100.

My only complaint, why did they never field an eight inch hunting version of the GP-100? Eight inches of barrel and the short underlug just screams 50 yard whitetail.
 
Like others here I have an addiction to S&W N frames ( 3xM28's 1xM27). In addition I have a few more Smiths, but for the past few years I had been wanting a GP 100 as well. In particular I had been focused on the blued 6" model with full underlug and adjustable sights. Last December I finally picked one up. The only thing I've done to it is change the factory grips for Houges. I just prefer the Houges, but other then that I have no complaints. It may not be the fanciest of my wheel guns, but by god it's solid.
 
After about 100 rounds or so of fairly rapid fire, I have gotten abrasion and blistering on my trigger finger about 1/4 inch behind the first joint from both my former GP100 and current SP101. I do place the crease of the first joint (not the area between the knuckles) on the trigger; I do not get very good leverage on the heavy DA pull (which could also use improvement) when using just the pad at the tip. I think rounding and polishing the edges of the trigger and trigger guard would cure this, but have not gotten around to it yet. With a stainless gun, no refinishing is needed.
 
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