Gripping a J Frame

[Jabr0ney]

So i'm wondering if there's a trick to gripping a J frame while shooting. I recently replaced hogue grips on my Smith 442 with the Tyler T grip setup. I love this setup for CC purposes, looks great, but KILLS my hand. Ive been looking it up online and seems like im gripping it correctly, the only thing is after every range trip the webbing of my hand (between thumb and pointer finger) feels bruised for at least 2 days. Perhaps i'm gripping it too low? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I'm sorry to say there really isn't much you can do about the felt recoil from a 15oz Alloy revolver shooting .38 Special +P SD ammo. My trick is shooting a bunch of lighter loads for practice and then finish up with 10 or 15 SD rounds.

As for hold, I try to grip the revolver as high as I can in an attempt to control the muzzle rise and to get back on target quickly.

Nice grip setup, I went in a slightly different direction and bought Badger Custom Rosewood Boot grips.

 

[Resist Evil]

I went with a set of Crimson Trace laser grips. There is some cushioning at the upper end of them which mitigates the discomfort of shooting. I have a Smith 342 Airlite Ti.

 

[Sam1911]

Jerry Miculek is one of (arguably) the two greatest living revolver shooters.


Here is a video demonstration he did on revolver grip, and he shows a couple of modifications to deal with very powerful or very small revolvers: http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip

For J-frames, he does cross his support thumb over, which I find awkward, but I certainly defer to his judgment!

 

[spotch]

Jerry Miculek is one of (arguably) the two greatest living revolver shooters.


Here is a video demonstration he did on revolver grip, and he shows a couple of modifications to deal with very powerful or very small revolvers: http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip

For J-frames, he does cross his support thumb over, which I find awkward, but I certainly defer to his judgment!

Yeah, that video is very helpful but I will say that his snub grip just *doesnt work* for my hands. Maybe they're too small? Anyway, I ended up using his "full size" grip when I shoot my LCR... I get a much tighter hold on it and more control.

 

[BRE346]

Huh, I use his J-frame grip on my J-frame too. Some day I'll be as good as he.
Some day.

 

[PabloJ]

Huh, I use his J-frame grip on my J-frame too. Some day I'll be as good as he.
Some day.

It will be sooner if you get S&W Model 12. Sadly one does not see them very often for sale as one would expect from item par excellence.

 

[BCRider]

The shape of the grips and how they meet the frame around the top area and elbow of the back strap is likey shaped poorly for how the web of your hand fits to it. That sets things up for the recoil to pivot the gun within your grip and drag or impact that area badly and make your eyes sweat

I find that if the grip shape is such that I can't get a nice supportive full contact hold around the upper "neck" that the guns tend to hurt. What you want to do is find some grips that are more "full" up in that area so your hand has a more even contact with the grip material.

If you're after skinny for concealability that's fine too. But I'd suggest that you then need to go custom to get skinny along with comfy. If you're decent at wood working one way would be to make your own grips from scratch. Or possibly to start with some wood grips that are a bit oversize and modify them to slim down the width and reshape the upper rear area so you still get a nice contact pressure without the hard ridges dragging on your hand.

 

[FireInCairo]

This is surely easier on the hands, but it may not suit your pocket and may be too big compared to how you have it now:

 

[19-3Ben]

I bought a 642 about a year and a half ago or so. Fired a few rounds, and that was enough.
I had figured that with all the wonderful reviews of this gun on THR and other places, I'd love it. I even expected it to replace my LCP. I didn't love it at all, and my LCP is in my pocket today. I liked the feel of the 642, but as soon as I started shooting it, it really hurt. I even tried a bunch of different grips. Recoil is VERY subjective. TO ME, the recoil of the 642 was intolerable and I sold it pretty quickly.

On the other hand, I find my LCP to have very moderate recoil. Whereas some people think the LCP is snappy, i find it to be quite tolerable (even... fun!).
I used to love shooting my SP101 3" with full blast .357mag loads from DT/BB. But the 642 with even mild range ammo just was not pleasant for me at all.
Must be my hand shape.
Jabr0ney- it could just be that your hands are like mine, and we are not meant for the j frame airweights.

 

[SwampWolf]

As for hold, I try to grip the revolver as high as I can in an attempt to control the muzzle rise and to get back on target quickly.

I agree. I grip most of my handguns as far up as practical for the reasons ArchAngelCD described. On revolvers, I also place the thumb of my support hand over the thumb of my shooting hand. This position affords the best way to cock the hammer without disturbing my grip if I am making a repeat shot in the single-action mode.

 

[9mmepiphany]

You could try a set of Craig Spegel boot grips which come up higher on the backstrap and broaden the recoil shoulder to spread out the force transmission to the web of your hand

 

[Jabr0ney]

I do own the hogue monographs pictures above, and yes they made shooting a dream. The only thing with those is they are longer, wider, and grip my shirt. With the added size I'd be just as well off carrying a double stack 9.

I mean I can tolerate the recoil, it's just not pleasant at all. Will my hand eventually stop being bruised every range trip?

 

[Steve C]

Airweight guns will beat you up with standard and high power ammo. There's just no getting around the physics. Grips that spread the recoil and allow you to hold onto the gun better help a lot. Personally all my 2" snubs have Pachmayer Compac grips that cover the back strap and help dissipate the recoil well. I give up a bit of conceal-ability but gain control.

If I wanted to keep the small grips on a handgun that hurt my hand to shoot I may do it but I'd limit my shooting of that gun to simply verifying that I can hit sufficiently well with it and practice with another handgun or caliber that's not as abusive.

 

[Remllez]

If this is your first J-Frame it's going to beat your hand up, until you learn to tolerate the recoil. You should buy some Wadcutters that run around (700 fps.) and work your hand up to higher velocities, even use a good shooting glove if you feel the need.

You can try different grips or go back to the stock grips and shoot 1/2 a box of wadcutters or less at a time, until you can shoot a full box without hurting. I've shot J's for years, still own, carry and shoot two on a regular basis.

I was taught to shoot J-Frames with a near death grip, and soon learned they weren't all that bad to shoot. Consequently I enjoy shooting a couple boxes when I go to the range. Many people think J's and Dicks are target guns....but they ain't....

In short...Don't Give Up!!...with all the grips and ammo selection available these days you should find some combination that works comfortably for you. Try a stress ball for building up your hand, and lots of dry firing to help with that trigger finger.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I mean I can tolerate the recoil, it's just not pleasant at all. Will my hand eventually stop being bruised every range trip?

Yes and no, if you are really bruising your hand that won't stop hurting. Try what I suggested above, shoot lighter ammo for most of your practice session and then before you leave shoot 10 to 15 SD rounds and no more. OR, switch out the grips for the range with those Hogue grips and put the slim grips back on before you leave the range. (I've done both)

 

[jfh]

On my 640 (.357 version), I have the CT305 grips. On my M&P 340, I have the CT405 grips. Other j-frames, since sold, included a 442, 360, 60, and Pro 60. I've used Pacmayr Compacs, the S&W Compac variant, Altamont boot grips, and the Hogue pictured above. I tried a grip setup like yours on a Model 42 once, and that was enough.

The ammo I typically shoot are reloads that are 1) "GDSB 38+P" replicas; 2) "FBI800" replicas boosted to CIP specs, and 3) a "FBI900" load I developed as a shootable 357 load in a lightweight.

All the grips will work--once your hand is toughened enough through repetitive shooting, and maybe even exercises. I will admit that, after doing the 'short-barrel reloading tests' a few years ago, I found I have a new larger callous and bone deformation in the web of my shooting hand. This year, that anomaly has paid off as I have started to shoot more and get the muscles back in shape.

Once your hand is tough enough to have a death grip on the revolver while still maintaining the finer motor control for trigger squeeze and recoil, the problem will go away, I think.

Jim H.

 

[Texan Scott]

service grips are good for concealment... i still use 'em on my cobra... but the recoil with hot loads will be almost bruising. 'better', meaning wider at the top/ back, grips willgo a long way toward ameliorating the problem, as will a pinky finger rest, but that runs counter to the concealment thing, as do softer rubber grips, which tack and grab on clothing more in my experience. some of it comes down to realizing that you need to practice a little with your carry gun, frequently... but not a lot all at once.

 

[marcclarke]

Jerry Miculek is one of (arguably) the two greatest living revolver shooters.


Here is a video demonstration he did on revolver grip, and he shows a couple of modifications to deal with very powerful or very small revolvers: http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip

For J-frames, he does cross his support thumb over, which I find awkward, but I certainly defer to his judgment!

The cross-over thumb grip really helps steady the sights during the trigger pull and really helps damp recoil as the cartridge fires.

 

[Sam1911]

The cross-over thumb grip really helps steady the sights during the trigger pull and really helps damp recoil as the cartridge fires.

It doesn't do any of those things for me, and it doesn't do them for HIM, either, with any other gun but the J-frames (which includes the .500 Mag!).

But there must be some reason he likes it.

 

[19-3Ben]

All the grips will work--once your hand is toughened enough through repetitive shooting,

You found such a nice way to say "nerve damage."

 

[lowercase]

That grip selection along with full-power loads is going to hurt your hands at the range.

Recommend practicing with soft-shooting wadcutter rounds. S&B 148 grain wadcutter is the mildest I've found. Get used to it with those and then step up to normal stuff (not +p).

This has made a big difference for me.

 

[Hammerdown77]

For me, the biggest improvement in comfort is a grip that covers the backstrap at the top. The Pachmayr Compacs do this, and my J frame becomes very easy to shoot well with this grip (I can consistently ring a 6" steel plate offhand at 25 yards). However, that grip feels like it weighs as much as the entire gun, and is quite bulky.

I'd like to see some boot grips like Badger or Spegel that cover the top of the backstrap. Anyone know of any?

 

[Wishoot]

I learned to shoot snubbies using a death-grip. I can typically shoot an LCR better than almost anything else.

 

[kcshooter]

the webbing of my hand (between thumb and pointer finger) feels bruised for at least 2 days

Same thing that happens to me with exposed backstrap J-frames. Those bootgrips are just not enough grip for the shape of my hands.

I have found that I need a closed and beefy backstrap at the top to fill the web of my hand.

I also need it to be thinner towards the bottom of the grip to fit my natural point of aim.

Problem is, most closed backstraps have either too much meat at the bottom or are extended for the pinkie finger which I prefer not to have because it helps to conceal without it.

I found that one of the crimson trace grips fit perfectly. I don't like lasers, and I don't like spending over $200 bucks on a pair of grips for a $400 revolver.

So I modify grips. I find ones that have a good thick area at the top of the grip and a thin area at the bottom and then I chop off the pinkie area to the base of the strap, round it out so it's nice and clean and smooth.

Works for me.