Owned my first AR for a few months now and have always used gun grease after cleaning and shooting. It has worked great, and have had 0 issues. A friend talked me into buying lube/oil so after the range i cleaned and lubed up my bolt. Woke up this morning to just check everything out and mt bolt looks and feels dry as if all the lube i caked on there has completely evaporated. Is this normal?
Gun Lube Evaporates?
- Thread starter Nebis
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Mauser lover
Member
What lube/oil?
You shouldn't have "caked" any sort of oil on like you would grease, but it shouldn't have evaporated overnight either. Unless you are using a "dry" (Teflon or some such) lube, in which case, it will both look and feel dry while supposedly being slick still.
And welcome to the forum!
You shouldn't have "caked" any sort of oil on like you would grease, but it shouldn't have evaporated overnight either. Unless you are using a "dry" (Teflon or some such) lube, in which case, it will both look and feel dry while supposedly being slick still.
And welcome to the forum!
1911 guy
Member
Hoppes #9 is a solvent, not a lubricant, and yes it will evaporate.
Solvents are for cleaning the gunk off a firearm, oils are for lubricating and protecting the surfaces. Do not reapply the Hoppes solvent. Instead, apply an oil.
Solvents are for cleaning the gunk off a firearm, oils are for lubricating and protecting the surfaces. Do not reapply the Hoppes solvent. Instead, apply an oil.
GunnyUSMC
Member
CLP (Breakfree) was designed for the M16. I have used it all over the world in just about every climate and it works.
Mauser lover
Member
Before we jump on him for his choice of lubricants....
On the Hoppe's #9 bottle (yes, the standard solvent) it says that it can be used for light preservative and lubricious uses. There is also a Hoppe's 9 lubricant, if I am not mistaken. So, to the original poster, are you using the standard solvent or the new lube under the name of Hoppe's 9?
I would not say that the standard Hoppe's 9 solvent is sufficient for lubing an AR bolt. I don't have any experience with the new line of Hoppe's products, so I will remain silent on such.
On the Hoppe's #9 bottle (yes, the standard solvent) it says that it can be used for light preservative and lubricious uses. There is also a Hoppe's 9 lubricant, if I am not mistaken. So, to the original poster, are you using the standard solvent or the new lube under the name of Hoppe's 9?
I would not say that the standard Hoppe's 9 solvent is sufficient for lubing an AR bolt. I don't have any experience with the new line of Hoppe's products, so I will remain silent on such.
1911 guy
Member
I know you didn't ask for my opinion, but here it is anyway. For a couple generations Hoppes was the best stuff on the market for a general use gun solvent. Then they got sold to Michael's of Oregon (Uncle Mike's) and the only thing remotely the same is the smell. It has been a poor performer now for over a decade. Shooter's Choice is now the best on the market.
Now on to oils. The AR isn't picky about what oil you use as long as it is oiled. Everything from BreakFree to motor oil mixed with transmission fluid has been used with good results. Find the one you are comfortable using and run with it.
Now on to oils. The AR isn't picky about what oil you use as long as it is oiled. Everything from BreakFree to motor oil mixed with transmission fluid has been used with good results. Find the one you are comfortable using and run with it.
I have the hoppes 9 solvent that i use to clean my gun and then i have the hoppes 9 lubrication that inam referring to now
Correct i am using the lubrication made by hoppes 9. I am not that new at firearms lol
https://www.chiefsupply.com/hoppes-...k8XVifTHQOsLzQ03TQj6hYhWD-ZJ68NXqQaAnfG8P8HAQ
This is what i am using
But i do also have some barricade. Would this be more efficient?
https://www.google.com/search?q=bar..._AUICigC&biw=360&bih=560#imgrc=gtnMis5g4j1jDM:
This is what i am using
But i do also have some barricade. Would this be more efficient?
https://www.google.com/search?q=bar..._AUICigC&biw=360&bih=560#imgrc=gtnMis5g4j1jDM:
TrickyDick
Member
I just use 5w-20 Mobil 1 synthetic. I just wipe it onto whatever I'm oiling and leave a thin layer.
No need for fancy gun oil.
No need for fancy gun oil.
lemaymiami
Member
I'm fond of Gunslik and Breakfree -either or....
The one oil I tell folks to avoid like the plague is that old standby "3 in 1" oil.... I tear down and repair quite a few reels and have seen over and over again that the stuff turns into varnish over time. Many times I can get a miracle cure on a fishing reel by simply using mineral spirits to melt the stuff and allow me to scrub it off with a toothbrush - then a light lube and that reel works as good as new.... I learned long ago not to use it anywhere near a gun....
The one oil I tell folks to avoid like the plague is that old standby "3 in 1" oil.... I tear down and repair quite a few reels and have seen over and over again that the stuff turns into varnish over time. Many times I can get a miracle cure on a fishing reel by simply using mineral spirits to melt the stuff and allow me to scrub it off with a toothbrush - then a light lube and that reel works as good as new.... I learned long ago not to use it anywhere near a gun....
mljdeckard
Member
I find it's easier to just use one. I use CLP for pretty much everything. On an AR, don't be afraid to keep that bolt nice and wet.
If the oil you're using now evaporates, just keep reapplying it. Use up what you've got while you figure out an alternative. Mobil One works but stains clothing. ATF is bad for skin. Grease isn't a good choice for an AR. Grease traps dirt and fouling. Oil traps dirt and fouling as well, but the dirty oil can be washed away by applying fresh oil. Grease has to be wiped off before applying fresh grease.
I used to use Frog Lube but it started caking up when I started shooting with suppressors and 22 adapters. Now I'm using Lucas Gun Oil. Not because I think it's the best lube ever, but because so far it hasn't caked up and hasn't started irritating my skin
I used to use Frog Lube but it started caking up when I started shooting with suppressors and 22 adapters. Now I'm using Lucas Gun Oil. Not because I think it's the best lube ever, but because so far it hasn't caked up and hasn't started irritating my skin
Everready73
Member
I like G96 CLP better than breakfree . It's better in cold weather if that matters. I recently picked up some ALG Gojuice and really like it as well
I use the old Breakfree on just about everything. I have a good supply of it. Drislide works great on ARs. Either will "evaporate" but the PTFE from the Breakfree or molydenum disulfide from the Drislide are still there.
I use Mobil 1 grease on Garands.
I use Mobil 1 grease on Garands.
Elkins45
Member
RC model once pointed out that it wasn't uncommon to see a metal can of 3 in 1 with a rusted top!
Here is an interesting article that mentions Lucas Gun oil. I have been using Slip 2000 on ARs, but have used Lucas products over the years and figured I would give the Gun oil a try. So far all I have tried it on is a revolver. One of these days I'll use it on an AR. Happy with Slip 2000 though.
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2015/09/08/ar-endurance-findings-at-a-rental-range/
FROGO207
Member
I usually clean with carb cleaner after removing all the plastic and wood that will be bothered by it. Then I add a layer of P B Blaster. After I work that in I will use a little Mobil One Synthetic oil on friction points. Never had any problems with running them in the hot or cold encountered around here.YMMV
I've found with petroleum based greases used on fire arms, the liquid does evaporate over a long period of time (year or more) leaving the clay material behind. In other words, it dries out and the gun gets sluggish. I'd suspect, petroleum based oils might do the same.
I've had better luck with synthetic based greases and they retain their lubricant properties much longer than the petroleum based stuff.
Regardless, oils or greases used for gun lubricants should not dry or evaporate overnight or even a few months or more. If that is happening, the material used is not suitable for the task at hand.
There are lots of good gun oils out there. I'm currently using up some CLP and plan to change over to synthetic motor oils. I can drain the last drips out of the bottles used to fill my race car's oil sump and have enough gun oil for years to come.
I've had better luck with synthetic based greases and they retain their lubricant properties much longer than the petroleum based stuff.
Regardless, oils or greases used for gun lubricants should not dry or evaporate overnight or even a few months or more. If that is happening, the material used is not suitable for the task at hand.
There are lots of good gun oils out there. I'm currently using up some CLP and plan to change over to synthetic motor oils. I can drain the last drips out of the bottles used to fill my race car's oil sump and have enough gun oil for years to come.
luzyfuerza
Member
Just don't use aerosol gun oils in hot conditions. Many will evaporate quickly, and leave your AR bone dry.
Salmoneye
Member
I'm still using up my Grandmother's Singer Sewing machine oil from the 30's...
I have enough for the rest of my life...
Cannibul
Member
I'm wondering if that's whale oil?
P5 Guy
Member
Sperm Whale oil was THE light machine oil in the 19th century.
For all but detail strip and clean, my once every five years approach. After a range session I clean the bore with Kano Labs, Kroil wipe dry and relube with Mobil 1
For all but detail strip and clean, my once every five years approach. After a range session I clean the bore with Kano Labs, Kroil wipe dry and relube with Mobil 1
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