Many of the gun oils I see on the market are quite thin, almost watery. I would think that would make it run off of the area where it was applied. Im wondering what really is good for a lube oil, not just rust preventative, a somewhat heavier oil or is thinner oil better. I normally use a silicone grease to lube and a rust preventative spray which is rubbed onto the metal in a thin sheen. The oil question stays on my mind.
Gun Oil Viscosity?
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troy fairweather
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Well it's thin so it's oil, if it were thick then it's grease.
wiscoaster
Member
I have three different viscosity level gun oils and gun grease, and I use whatever I think is appropriate for the gun and its use. You only find out which gun runs best on which lube by trial and error.
JTQ
Member
I think it does depend on temperature which to use, thicker or thinner. I've used grease on my guns in the past, but not anymore. Not that it didn't work, but you really have to make an effort to clean grease off, and while I do regularly clean my guns, using oil is a little simpler for me, as I can add it without taking the gun apart.
As far as oil running off, put some oil on your gun, or some other surface, like a piece of glass or a plate, now take a patch and wipe off the oil. Have you gotten all the oil off the surface? Probably not. The only way to really get all the oil off is to use a degreaser, and I never use those, so it isn't a concern for me.
If you look at Wilson Combat's recommendations for their Ultima-Lube II products (not an endorsement, though they are good, just a data point for information), they only recommend their grease, which is a pourable product even, for rifles and carbines. They recommend some version of their Oil or Universal for pistols.
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/OIL-ULTIMA-LUBE-II-4-OZ-BOTTLE/productinfo/577-4/
As far as oil running off, put some oil on your gun, or some other surface, like a piece of glass or a plate, now take a patch and wipe off the oil. Have you gotten all the oil off the surface? Probably not. The only way to really get all the oil off is to use a degreaser, and I never use those, so it isn't a concern for me.
If you look at Wilson Combat's recommendations for their Ultima-Lube II products (not an endorsement, though they are good, just a data point for information), they only recommend their grease, which is a pourable product even, for rifles and carbines. They recommend some version of their Oil or Universal for pistols.
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/OIL-ULTIMA-LUBE-II-4-OZ-BOTTLE/productinfo/577-4/
If you're looking for oil that "stays put" get some machine way oil like Mobil Vactra Medium Way Oil, or use a chainsaw bar-and-chain oil. They have special tackifiers that help them to stick in place. (Because it doesn't say "Gun" lubricant, doesn't mean it won't work, and it will be less pricey as well!) However, too much oil or grease in your firearm is not good, for dirt and dust accumulates, and under certain conditions will cause jamming. Not much oil or grease is needed in a firearm unless you do a major amount of rapid firing or have a fully automatic weapon. Less is more in a carry weapon in my opinion. Rule of thumb, oil on pins and grease on things that slide, and not much of either is needed.
David Hoback
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I’ve used the Lucas oil for a lot ‘o years now. As was said, in keeping your arms lubed, there is always a surface film that doesn’t go anywhere. That is what ya want.
I have about 250,000 types of lubricants in my gun shop. Ok, maybe slightly less. But I have discovered about all of them work reasonably well, to some degree and in certain locations, with all my firearms. Personal experimentation and experience is helpful.
It's not the viscosity that matters, it is the secret magic ingredients that molecular bond to the microscopic pores in the metal
I knew there was a scientific explanation for this (Are you related to Fauci ?)
Zerodefect
member
(Belly laughs in straight 40 weight.)
Use what works for you.
I use grease on my semiautomatic pistols during hot weather. Oil in cooler weather.
Lucas Marine grease, sparingly applied with a drop of Mobil 1 0w-20w afterwards makes the slides feel like they’re on ball bearings at temps over 50°!
or just use oil and be done with it!
I use grease on my semiautomatic pistols during hot weather. Oil in cooler weather.
Lucas Marine grease, sparingly applied with a drop of Mobil 1 0w-20w afterwards makes the slides feel like they’re on ball bearings at temps over 50°!
or just use oil and be done with it!
earlthegoat2
Member
If oil (or grease) is dripping off your gun, you are using too much.
Some applications call for more than others such as AR BCGs. Some applications work better with light grease such as an M1A or Garand.
Judicious use is key regardless. Light oil, used lightly, will not spray you in the face upon firing. Unless full auto is employed, not much is really asked of gun lubricants. Engines running at several thousand RPM put much higher demands on oils and as such they are higher viscosity and often times have pumping systems to pressurize it.
In general firearms do not have too many moving parts and as such aren’t as demanding of their lubricants.
Some applications call for more than others such as AR BCGs. Some applications work better with light grease such as an M1A or Garand.
Judicious use is key regardless. Light oil, used lightly, will not spray you in the face upon firing. Unless full auto is employed, not much is really asked of gun lubricants. Engines running at several thousand RPM put much higher demands on oils and as such they are higher viscosity and often times have pumping systems to pressurize it.
In general firearms do not have too many moving parts and as such aren’t as demanding of their lubricants.
LiveLife
Member
FWIW, Project Farm tested following Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectants (CLP): Clenzoil, Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, Frog Lube, Hoppe’s, Extreme Force, Hoppe’s 9 Kit, Ballistol and Fluid Film.
Testing approach took into consideration testing standards outlined in the Mil PRF 63460F and tested for: cleaning highly carbonized metal after 2 minutes of exposure to CLP and a 5-second cleaning process. Lubricating ability of CLPs tested using a lubricity tester. CLPs tested for the ability to resist rust, including after protected metal is exposed to heat. CLPs also tested for cold temperature performance at -40F.
Testing approach took into consideration testing standards outlined in the Mil PRF 63460F and tested for: cleaning highly carbonized metal after 2 minutes of exposure to CLP and a 5-second cleaning process. Lubricating ability of CLPs tested using a lubricity tester. CLPs tested for the ability to resist rust, including after protected metal is exposed to heat. CLPs also tested for cold temperature performance at -40F.
- 7:24 - Wear scar size (mm)
- 9:35 - Carbon cleaning
- 10:52 - Dust accumulation
- 14:15 - Corrosion on heat exposed metal
- 14:25 - Corrosion without heat exposure
Buzznrose
Member
The great “Gun lubes and grease” and “what handgun caliber” debates are pretty much a first world phenomenon.
The majority of the third world cleans their guns with diesel fuel and lubes them with motor oil and axle grease.
The majority of the third world cleans their guns with diesel fuel and lubes them with motor oil and axle grease.
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I do!
The problem is the copper in the barrel. Requires chemical removal.
Have you tried Teflon-based lubricants?
So which one was considered the best?
LiveLife
Member
Based on wear, Clenzoil and BreakFree CLP.
rabid wombat
Member
Re: grease and oil….Oil is the lubricant in either grease or oil. Oil combined with a soap makes grease. The soap is not a lubricant. You can have high or low viscosity oil either in oil, or in the oil suspended in the grease. You can have either high or low NLGI numbers in grease (lack of better words - the stiffness of the grease.). Think of grease as oil suspended in a sponge…the oil has to come out to work. The oil that comes out is what lubricates…
You can spend hours in this mess…key issue, getting the right oil into the right place, at the right time, at the operating temperature.
You can spend hours in this mess…key issue, getting the right oil into the right place, at the right time, at the operating temperature.
N555
Member
1911 slides like grease or thick oil. Roller delayed blow backs seem to like thinner oil, anything thick enough to hold a shape causes them to jam.
Depends on the gun.
Depends on the gun.
Zendude
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Jackrabbit1957
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I use recycled A/C compressor oil, the stuff I have is in a gallon jug, it's very clean and it works very well in both high and low temperatures. For semi auto slides a thin application of hi temp bearing grease does the trick.
BRatigan
Member
Wilson Combat products are excellent. Grease clings well and red oil is just fine. I use the bore cleaner also.
For me corrosion resistance properties are at the top, and performance at freezing temperatures are the bottom of concerns.
With that 'lens', FrogLube seems to have done the best from the video (although i am not quite sure that methodology to test corrosion is that great)
doubleh
Member
Man oh man. Over the years I have used momma's Singer sewing machine oil, 3 in 1 oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, and a variety of gun oils like Remington, etc., and Mobil 1 5-30 because that is what I use in my jeep and I can drain the last few drops out of the bottles when I need to resupply my oil bottle. Ever one of them has done the job and done it well. The Remington model 12 that got the Singer oil still works just like it ought too and it is around 100 years old now.. Why did I lube it with Singer? Because my dad did.
On striker fired semi-auto pistols that have what I consider less than stellar triggers ( just about all of them) I use spray dry lube, currently Hoppe's because that is what the store had in stock. I spray the internals out with Superlube carb cleaner (Walmart), blow it out with high pressure air and do it again, then spray with the dry lube and pull the trigger while it is drying to distribute it. This improves the trigger.
On striker fired semi-auto pistols that have what I consider less than stellar triggers ( just about all of them) I use spray dry lube, currently Hoppe's because that is what the store had in stock. I spray the internals out with Superlube carb cleaner (Walmart), blow it out with high pressure air and do it again, then spray with the dry lube and pull the trigger while it is drying to distribute it. This improves the trigger.
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