Gun safe need info please

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seb1

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Hi

I am a young guys that just love to go shoot and hunt. But since i own some gun, my mother starting to be scare of me having them in my closet without any kind of security ( except a trigger lock ). So i decided to buy a safe and i finally find one that fit my need at costco. But there only one problem, despite the fact that this gun safe weight over 300 pounds, i really want it to be bolt down to my floor but it doesnt come with a bolt down equipment. So the question im asking is, can i bolt it myself?? is there a way to make hole in the floor of the safe to bolt it down????:confused: :confused:
thank you all for your help and god bless America

P.S. the safe is a executive 7.1 (7.6) gun safe with black wall and a front brushed aluminium door, make by sisco digital and key lock.
 
Most safes come with holes in the bottom for bolts. If that one doesn't, you will have to drill holes to allow it to be bolted down. You should be able to rent a large portable drill and bit to drill 4 holes in the bottom of the safe. You can do this with the safe on its side before you put it in the place you want it, or you can put the safe in place and drill through the safe bottom. If you do that, DON'T run the large bit right into the floor.

The position of the holes is not critical, but they should be spread out in a roughly rectangular pattern. The holes in the safe can be larger than the bolts, but remember that the hole in the floor has to be the right size for the bolts you are using. If the safe is on wood, regular 3/8" lag bolts will work fine; if on concrete, you will have to use a concrete (masonry) bit to drill the holes and then set anchors in the floor to take the lag bolts; if you use 3/8" bolts, the holes in the safe have to be 1/2".

Also think about how you are going to patch the floor if/when you move out or get rid of the safe. You want to try to do as little damage as possible to the floor.

Jim
 
I'll add just a little to the above advice.

Know where you're drilling before you drill. Hitting plumbing or electrical wiring with a drill will cause a very bad day for you.

If your floor is concrete, the chances of this are very slim. If you have a wood floor, and can look at it from beneath, do so.
 
thank you sir, i will take notice of your advice, but im asking myself if i should not worry about bolting it down, that safe still weigth about 356 pound who can stole this??
 
but im asking myself if i should not worry about bolting it down, that safe still weigth about 356 pound who can stole this??

All depends on how bad they want it, and how bad you want to keep it, it's all relative...

Smash and grab, may be deterrent enough. Someone knows you have something valuable in the safe, and is determined to get it, then there's a problem.

BTW, if you haven't bought it yet, then look around and see if you can find one that bolts down more easily. Otherwise, you can also try to slow down someone from getting to it, like deadbolt the room or closet leading to it, making it less likely to be discovered by other parties visiting the home, and making it harder for an intruder to get to, assuming Mom doesn't mind you doing that, since it seems you're still under her roof. I've heard the best security is in keeping your mouth shut about what you have, then no one comes looking for it, usually.

Karz
 
Homak

Check out Homak safes. They are lighter weight than your usual two ton safe. They can be bolted to the floor, and some of them have electronic locking features.
 
Sorry to threadjack, but I have been thinking about this myself. Considering I don't live in a big place and want security for my firearms in case of break-in, I would also like plain old concealment.
It would make a bigger project but in the end worth it. Out of sight out of mind I say.
Ideally I would like a hidden vault door.
 
Carpet?

Any tips for drilling through the carpet (into a wood floor) without tearing the carpet up?
 
You could always throw some bags of lead shot or something in the floor of the safe, make it a little harder to tote away if bolting it to the floor isn't an option.

If the safe empty weighs 350 lbs, add a few guns and a couple bags of lead shot, and who knows...the day someone tries to cart it off, you may find the poor guy doubled over on your floor with a hernia.

Locks and safes are there to keep the honest people honest, just remember if a really determined crook wants your stuff, he'll get it. Fortunately most of us don't have to worry too much about really determined crooks, they're out robbing banks and making it onto the evening news. ;)
 
I built a base out of plywood and 2x4s that was slightly bigger than the safe bottom. Bolted the safe to that. I stained the base, and made it look nice. Not exactly "bolted to the floor" but it is extra trouble for anyone to steal it, since the base would no way fit through the doorway...
 
Bender, good idea. That may be what I end up doing. I don't want big holes in the floor.
 
When I bought my safe (350+ pounds) they loaded it onto the truck using a forklift with driver and 2 helpers. I had it off the truck and in the house in less than 10 minutes by myself with a $20 dolly. Moral: One person, reasonably motivated, (it was a rented truck... I didn't want to pay more than I had to), and a dolly will get that safe out quick if it's not bolted down.
 
When I bought my safe (350+ pounds) they loaded it onto the truck using a forklift with driver and 2 helpers. I had it off the truck and in the house in less than 10 minutes by myself with a $20 dolly. Moral: One person, reasonably motivated, (it was a rented truck... I didn't want to pay more than I had to), and a dolly will get that safe out quick if it's not bolted down.
Out, perhaps.

Loaded onto the back of a truck and going down the road? Not likely, not without drawing some attention.
 
Any tips for drilling through the carpet (into a wood floor) without tearing the carpet up?
Yes, always use a razor knife to cut holes a bit bigger than the wood bit. This will keep the bit from grabbing the carpet fiber and pulling it causing a run that may go several feet in seconds.
 
Seb;

See if you can locate a gasket hole punch set. That, used properly, will punch a hole in the carpet & eliminate the chance of runners. This is not a complicated hi-tech tool. They're cheap & handy & operate with a hammer.

Three hundred fifty pounds is not, repeat not a heavy unit. Easily portable with a dolly. Getting it into a pickup without a forklift isn't all that hard either. BTDT.

900F
 
Thank you all for info but i still got a question left... If the safe i choose doesnt come with pre-factory made hole for bolting it down to the floor and/or wall, can i make them myself?? can i drill hole in the back and floor of my safe?? and if yes can you tell me with what tool i can do that??

thank you
 
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I think almost all of the safes come predrilled on the bottom for anchors. Problably not so on the back, however. On a consumer safe, you can drill it with a standard metal drilling bit. Might be better to start out with a small bit and work your way up.

A 350 lb safe is a piece of cake to move. I've moved mine a couple times with a 40 dollar hand truck. Getting it into the back of PU truck is a little more difficult by yourself, but can be done with a couple 2x4. A couple thieves could easily be gone with one in 10 mins. Bolt it down - it's worth the trouble.
 
Quintin Likely

Out, perhaps.

Loaded onto the back of a truck and going down the road? Not likely, not without drawing some attention.

How about if the truck has a stick-on "Honest Abe's Locks and Safes" sign on the side?

Ever watch It Takes a Thief? The new show, that is. The public doesn't give a rats haunches if the deed looks even semi-legit.
 
Do you guys know something about stack-on safe ?? are they good? i saw one that can fit 16 long gun ,weight about 214 pound but can be bolt down. I think that can be a better choice than the one who weight 356 pound but cant be bolt down.
 
The Sentry safes are thicker than the Stack On. Check out Academy. Oddly, they seem to have the better prices if you are going to move it yourself. The Sentry (If I recall correctly) does have pre drilled holes in the bottom.

I'm going to get the Sentry (12 gun) as soon as I can. I have to bolt mine to the wall and will need to drill holes in the back. This should be fun. The metal is nice and thick.

I'm not knocking Stack On. They seemed nice. But to me, for just a bit more $$$ you got a much stronger safe in the Sentry.
 
How about if the truck has a stick-on "Honest Abe's Locks and Safes" sign on the side?

Ever watch It Takes a Thief? The new show, that is. The public doesn't give a rats haunches if the deed looks even semi-legit.
You have a point. Although someone like that is probably a little more than the average thief one of us would be likely to run in to.

I was rethinking the bolt down thing earlier today. I guess I should bolt my safe down too. Can't hurt.
 
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