Hair whittling edge freehand!!

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....Have you gotten strops yet?.... I think you’ll be amazed at what finishing on a strop will do.
Not yet, but I have several on a list on Amazon, and hope to order by the end of the week. I'll let you know when I get one. Apparently, making one from an old belt just isn't in the cards right now.
....It’s still silly sharp, but I’ve seen some people get a knife sharp enough to whittle hair even after considerable use. I definitely wasn’t happy with the uneven bevel I produced though. I was trying to drop the angle considerably and I’m not skilled enough to do that and make it look pretty yet.
My guess is that might be a steel question more than a skill question. And if it's a skill question, you'll get there. Getting to hair-whittling free hand is pretty impressive, and a pretty significant breakthrough for you, IMHO.
 
Pretty awesome. I’d be stoked too. And my wife would be too, the first 5 minutes. After that she’d be tired of hearing about my mad knife sharpening skills.

I need to look into stropping on that level. The most I’ve ever done is use green compound on leather or cardboard. And untreated leather.
 
Pretty awesome. I’d be stoked too. And my wife would be too, the first 5 minutes. After that she’d be tired of hearing about my mad knife sharpening skills.

I need to look into stropping on that level. The most I’ve ever done is use green compound on leather or cardboard. And untreated leather.

It looks like some green compounds are rated at .5 micron. If yours is as well, using a few in a higher grit before using your green will make it easier to get that polished edge with lighter/fewer scratches. Whether or not that will equal a significantly sharper edge, I can’t say, as I have always used a progression, never just .5 micron by itself. Keep us posted!
 
The green I had, was from woodworkers supply and was rated as for sharpening. The green I have now come from Sears and it is more filler than the other. I can tell it doesn’t cut as good. It is considered the final step on their polishing scale on the back of the tube, but I have no idea what the rating is.
 
Heathen here. Old leather belt with Maguire's Scratch X. It makes a noticeable difference when a person wants a blade to be shaving sharp. Never use it with a kitchen knife. They only have to cut meat, vegetables and fruit, no hair.
 
The green I had, was from woodworkers supply and was rated as for sharpening. The green I have now come from Sears and it is more filler than the other. I can tell it doesn’t cut as good. It is considered the final step on their polishing scale on the back of the tube, but I have no idea what the rating is.
If it was their buffing wheel compound (woodworker supply) that was .5 micron.
 
My Native is S30V and this makes me want to put it on a stone, but I'm still a little nervous about doing so.
I sharpened my S35VN Native this afternoon. There is hardly and straight stretch on the blade so it’s a constant curving motion while sharpening. I went slow and made fewer passes than I would have normally. The edge turned out really well. Push cutting magazine and receipt paper with ease and hair popping. Sadly, it was not hair whittling, but it’s as sharp as anything I’ve produced on my Wicked Edge or KME, so it’s good enough. I spent enough time stropping to put a real high polish on it and the bevel looks good.
 
Congratulations are definitely in order. If I really want that next level I have a 0.3 micron lapping film on an Aluminum block I use. Spyderco white fine ceramic is as fine as I usually go.
 
Next up I’m going to try to microbevel a blade in S110V. Deburring S110V has been difficult for me so I may screw it up.
 
I microbevel everything. It makes steels like that much faster to sharpen. It makes others faster too, but it's particularly noticeable with those types of steels.
 
I can sharpen free hand well enough to slice paper and shave hair. Been able to do that for years. However I can't sharpen well enough to slice paper, shave hair , and field dress a couple of deer, and then shave hair off my arm after doing so. This requires precise angle control. Free handing and slicing paper is half the battle. Angle control the other half for edge retention.
 
1B72C2C1-5026-44D3-99EE-9369CA4C07A1.jpeg I finished up and it didn’t take long to raise a burr and then work through my extra fine stone and strop. This steel does continue to vex me though. I just don’t have the skill/technique/experience to get it to the level of keenness I can with other steels. This goes for both guided systems and freehand.

I was able to achieve hair shaving sharpness but not until I reached ultra fine. Stropping definitely upped the sharpness but didn’t really make it more shaving sharp. This steel also seems to be a little toothy when I finish regardless of method.

It will cleanly cut receipt paper and magazine paper but won’t push cut it. This shows I need more work still yet and further reinforces my preference for more balanced steels. That doesn’t change the fact that I’d love to master this steel. The edge retention and corrosion resistance puts it in an interesting category for sure.

In the picture there is a weird optical effect towards the left from the magnification that looks like the edge is wonky but it isn’t. The one thing I was pleased with was how evenly I applied the microbevel.
 
I can sharpen free hand well enough to slice paper and shave hair. Been able to do that for years. However I can't sharpen well enough to slice paper, shave hair , and field dress a couple of deer, and then shave hair off my arm after doing so. This requires precise angle control. Free handing and slicing paper is half the battle. Angle control the other half for edge retention.

Some of that will also be steel dependent, inasmuch as some steels simply won’t maintain edge retention as long as others. Of course, those low edge retention steels are much easier to sharpen. Knives and guns… the ultimate proof of tradeoffs.
 
Some of that will also be steel dependent, inasmuch as some steels simply won’t maintain edge retention as long as others. Of course, those low edge retention steels are much easier to sharpen. Knives and guns… the ultimate proof of tradeoffs.

Yep.

Some, in fact, are designed to be very easy to field sharpen. Machetes come to mind for this. A tough brush knife that the user can sharpen to a perfectly suitable edge with just a few quick strokes of a file.
 
Being able to shave the hair on my arm used to be my dads standard then of course became mine. We could both achieve this with stone work and then a steel.
For whatever reason I do not have either the stone or steel we used 35 years ago. I do have a stone that was dads but it is not THE stone. I have 2 or 3 steels then a couple ceramic "steels". On a good knife that is not too far gone I can still get it back to shaving sharp. Others I have failed. Either I don't have it any more or my equipment is not up to par. My good pocket knives are good to go but I cannot get the kitchen or steak knives up to my preferred level of sharpness. Either the knife, the equipment or the person doing the sharpening :) The biggest trick I have found in my 50+ years is not to let a knife get too dull in the first place.

-Jeff
 
Just for reference, the thickness of a very sharp edge is about 0.1 microns. Disposable razors hover around this thickness. The very sharpest edges in steels are about 0.02 microns. The sharpest edges I know of are either obsidian or diamond blades and are around 0.003 microns, or 3 nanometers/30 angstroms.
 
My good pocket knives are good to go but I cannot get the kitchen or steak knives up to my preferred level of sharpness. Either the knife, the equipment or the person doing the sharpening :) The biggest trick I have found in my 50+ years is not to let a knife get too dull in the first place.

-Jeff

Are the kitchen and steak knives stainless? If so, that's likely your problem when it comes to that hair-shaving razor edge you're talking about.

Stainless in general, most especially the lower quality stainless typically used in most knives/cutlery, is not hard enough to take an edge like you're used to. When you stroke the blades on your stone, likely you'll find the very edge of the blade develops a "curl" to it, which you can actually feel with your thumbnail. This requires a different technique to eliminate, likely a stropping.

There are three definitions which many people mess up...I know I used to mess up how they're used.

Sharpening. This is a process used to make a dull knife sharp and involves "significant" actual metal removal from the edge of the blade. (Significant, in comparison to honing or stropping.)

Honing. Follows sharpening and polishes the edge of the blade, removing irregularites.

Stropping. This follows honing and further polishes the edge.

Kitchen knives don't really require an actual razor edge. They need to be sharp, sure...but those tiny irregularities in the edge of the blades actually make them excellent for cutting/carving much of the fruits, veggies, and meats in the kitchen. An easy demonstration of this on a gross scale is trying to slice a ripe tomato into thin slices. Everybody knows you need a sharp knife for this...but what you really need is an edge on that knife that will make the first smooth cut, or puncture, through the skin. After that, a reasonably sharp knife will make short work of that tomato. The easy demonstration of this is to whip out that serrated bread knife and watch how easily it slices those tomatoes as thin as you could ever wish for. The serrations are what makes that possible.

So if your kitchen knives are sharp, but not razor sharp, you're probably in good standing at the kitchen counter.
 
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Managed a hair whittling edge on my dragonfly in k390. It wouldn’t whittle across the whole length but was close everywhere. Freehand with DMT coarse, fine, extra fine followed up by stropping at 4, 2, 1 and .5 micron.

361183B0-A13C-43C2-A268-0E5BB7E6E19A.jpeg
 
The high alloy steels with significant carbide former content are going to hold an edge very well, but it's going to be much harder to get a super-fine edge on them. If they are a CPM steel, that can keep the carbide sizes small, but even then, not as small as you would get from a low alloy steel.

If you want to whittle hair, a plain carbon steel, or a very simple stainless like AEB-L or Sandvik 12C27 is going to be your best bet. But you won't get the same edge-holding from them that you would from the steels that are specifically designed for very high edge-holding properties.

So you got kind of lucky with your S30V knife since it's a CPM steel. Your K390 knife will be a lot harder to get a super-fine edge on because it's got a lot of vanadium carbide content and since it's not a CPM steel, the carbides will be larger. Those super hard "chunks" in the steel will give it a lot of wear resistance, but they will also fight you if you are trying to get a really fine edge.
 
The high alloy steels with significant carbide former content are going to hold an edge very well, but it's going to be much harder to get a super-fine edge on them. If they are a CPM steel, that can keep the carbide sizes small, but even then, not as small as you would get from a low alloy steel.

If you want to whittle hair, a plain carbon steel, or a very simple stainless like AEB-L or Sandvik 12C27 is going to be your best bet. But you won't get the same edge-holding from them that you would from the steels that are specifically designed for very high edge-holding properties.

So you got kind of lucky with your S30V knife since it's a CPM steel. Your K390 knife will be a lot harder to get a super-fine edge on because it's got a lot of vanadium carbide content and since it's not a CPM steel, the carbides will be larger. Those super hard "chunks" in the steel will give it a lot of wear resistance, but they will also fight you if you are trying to get a really fine edge.

I'm carrying one of the xxCxx steels now in a Kershaw. 14N28 I think is it. If you are into very high sharpness, using the steels the razor companies use and sharpen by the 500-foot spool is a good place to start. I can't say I've been a huge fan of CPM steels. Some designs I like have them, so I had to learn to deal with them, but I don't find them better for my use.
 
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