I am really having problems sighting in my 30-30 marlin 336. I bought this gun new last summer. I put a Bushnell Trophy series 3x9 scope on it. It seems like I get it sighted in, then the next time I shoot it, I have to adjust it again. I have tried using different ammunitions in it, but it seems that they are all about the same. I have currently been shooting remington core-lokt 180 gr. bullets. I read an interesting article in guns and ammo a couple months ago that claimed that some gun barrels need to be "broke in" before they shoot good, but how do you know when your barrel is broke in. Can someone please give me some helpful hints to shooing consistently. Thanks, AHawk
Having consistency problems
- Thread starter AHawk
- Start date
- Status
If you're not consistent with your shooting positions, that can affect the point of impact.
Another thing to consider is that a clean barrel will often shoot to a slightly different point of impact than a fouled barrel. If you shoot for awhile to get your gun sighted and then take it home and clean it, it probably won't shoot to point of aim on your next range trip until you put several shots downrange to foul the barrel.
Another thing to consider is that a clean barrel will often shoot to a slightly different point of impact than a fouled barrel. If you shoot for awhile to get your gun sighted and then take it home and clean it, it probably won't shoot to point of aim on your next range trip until you put several shots downrange to foul the barrel.
There are too many potential variables that must be eliminated one-by-one.
I'd start by shooting with iron sites from a sandbag. Put the sandbag under the action not the forend. Inconsistent pressure on the forend can throw shots. If recoil bothers you, put a sandbag or shot bag between the buttstock and your shoulder. Shoot a group of 3 rounds at 50 yards without adjusting the sites, 1 minute between shots, then adjust the iron sites. Shoot several 3 shot groups allowing 1 minute between shots. If the rifle won't group well with iron sites, try different brands of ammo until it does.
Once you get it to group well with iron sites, mount the scope and repeat the exercise you did with iron sites using your known good ammo. If it won't group, the scope or scope mount is probably bad.
By using this technique you have eliminated:
1. Effects of variable pressure on the forend
2. Effects of flinch
3. Effects of ammo your rifle doesn't like
4. Effects of barrel fouling
5. Effects of a bad scope/bad scope mount
I'd start by shooting with iron sites from a sandbag. Put the sandbag under the action not the forend. Inconsistent pressure on the forend can throw shots. If recoil bothers you, put a sandbag or shot bag between the buttstock and your shoulder. Shoot a group of 3 rounds at 50 yards without adjusting the sites, 1 minute between shots, then adjust the iron sites. Shoot several 3 shot groups allowing 1 minute between shots. If the rifle won't group well with iron sites, try different brands of ammo until it does.
Once you get it to group well with iron sites, mount the scope and repeat the exercise you did with iron sites using your known good ammo. If it won't group, the scope or scope mount is probably bad.
By using this technique you have eliminated:
1. Effects of variable pressure on the forend
2. Effects of flinch
3. Effects of ammo your rifle doesn't like
4. Effects of barrel fouling
5. Effects of a bad scope/bad scope mount
Fed168
Member
Check to make sure that the ring and mount screws are tight and that there is no movement when the scope is mounted. A hard case helps keep things sturdy as well- stuff like dings and drops.
Gord
Member
Eat more fiber.
rangerruck
Member
the first thing i would do , is shoot it bagged front and rear , or in a vice, open sites, at 25 , then 50 yds. this will tell you if the problem is the rifle, you, the scope, or some combo of you and the scope.
rustymaggot
Member
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2005
- Messages
- 838
i had a rifle a while ago that would do that. it was a loose scope mount. i tightened the screws and they loosened up again so i had to locktite em. it was nuts tho, it shot nice tight groups at 50 yards and then next magazine it would shoot 15 inches off. crazy. then i noticed the scope would rock back and forth when i tried to wiggle it.
the above advice is all good advice. im just saying what happened to me.
the above advice is all good advice. im just saying what happened to me.
1911 guy
Member
Blue loc-tite.
Since it's a safe bet that your scope isn't sighted in right now, buy two things from the hardware store. First, a small bottle of naptha. Second, a bottle of BLUE loc-tite. The red stuff is forever, the blue can be broke loose with tools and effort.
Take the scope and mount completely off. Remove the scope from the rings, also.
Clean everything. Reciever, scope tube, bottom and inside of rings, mounting base. Use the naptha for this. Takes off the gunk and won't leave a residue. If you can't find a small bottle of naptha, Zippo lighter fluid works, also.
Check your screws. If they are buggered up in any way, throw them away and replace them.
Make sure you have a properly fitting screwdriver or allen key. Most scope rings are allen heads, most bases are slotted. The slotted screwdriver from your toolbox will not fit properly. Firearm screws are not tapered, the driver from your box is. Spend 12 bucks and get the B-Square set from any of the local sporting goods or "big box" stores around you.
With everything cleaned, proper tools and the loc-tite in front of you, mount things in this order:
1) base. Put loc-tite on the screw threads and finger tight all screws. Driver tight all screws, starting from the center and working out. There should be four screws, two front, two back. When they're all tight, tighten them again. As tight as you can get without stripping them. Be sure to push down on the driver while turning it.
2) rings. Lay the scope in the bottom halves, to see where the rings need to go for proper eye relief. Set the scope aside again, remove the screws from the rings (the ones that go horizontal) and loc-tite them. Tighten same as step one.
3) scope and top halves. Put the rifle in a padded vise, pointing toward a doorway or with a string hanging in front of it. The string is better, your doorway might not be square. Put a level across the base, rotate the rifle until it is level. Lay the scope in the bases, tighten the top halves WITHOUT loc-tite. Seeing the string hanging down through the scope, turn the scope tube so the vertical crosshair is aligned with it. Your rifle and scope are now level. One screw at a time, remove, loc-tite and re-tighten them. Let the rifle sit for a few hours before firing.
Since it's a safe bet that your scope isn't sighted in right now, buy two things from the hardware store. First, a small bottle of naptha. Second, a bottle of BLUE loc-tite. The red stuff is forever, the blue can be broke loose with tools and effort.
Take the scope and mount completely off. Remove the scope from the rings, also.
Clean everything. Reciever, scope tube, bottom and inside of rings, mounting base. Use the naptha for this. Takes off the gunk and won't leave a residue. If you can't find a small bottle of naptha, Zippo lighter fluid works, also.
Check your screws. If they are buggered up in any way, throw them away and replace them.
Make sure you have a properly fitting screwdriver or allen key. Most scope rings are allen heads, most bases are slotted. The slotted screwdriver from your toolbox will not fit properly. Firearm screws are not tapered, the driver from your box is. Spend 12 bucks and get the B-Square set from any of the local sporting goods or "big box" stores around you.
With everything cleaned, proper tools and the loc-tite in front of you, mount things in this order:
1) base. Put loc-tite on the screw threads and finger tight all screws. Driver tight all screws, starting from the center and working out. There should be four screws, two front, two back. When they're all tight, tighten them again. As tight as you can get without stripping them. Be sure to push down on the driver while turning it.
2) rings. Lay the scope in the bottom halves, to see where the rings need to go for proper eye relief. Set the scope aside again, remove the screws from the rings (the ones that go horizontal) and loc-tite them. Tighten same as step one.
3) scope and top halves. Put the rifle in a padded vise, pointing toward a doorway or with a string hanging in front of it. The string is better, your doorway might not be square. Put a level across the base, rotate the rifle until it is level. Lay the scope in the bases, tighten the top halves WITHOUT loc-tite. Seeing the string hanging down through the scope, turn the scope tube so the vertical crosshair is aligned with it. Your rifle and scope are now level. One screw at a time, remove, loc-tite and re-tighten them. Let the rifle sit for a few hours before firing.
____hoot____
Member
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2006
- Messages
- 92
Good advice above, and there is one thing more that I always do. You might want to ream your scope rings slightly with a 1" straight wood dowel and fine sand paper. Put the rings together and screw down the screws until you can just turn the dowel and sandpaper reamer inside them, then lightly open-up the scope channel to get the rings perfectly paralell. Of course use a larger dowel with a 30mm scope.
Jackal
Member
A wise old sage (AKA a hunter) once told me a little bit of wisdom. He said, "Never hunt with a clean barrel". You know what, he's right. I was having the same problems you are having, but now they are gone. I only clean after every 100 rounds or so. Now all my rifles shoot to the same POI as they did the last time I fired them.
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