I'm fairly new to reloading so I'm hoping this is something simple. I just started reloading for my 6mm ARC and I'm having trouble getting the bolt to fully close with my reloads. The factory ammo worked well and I am reloading that brass. After resizing all my brass was well within SAAMI specs and I made a dummy round from the batch. I can chamber the dummy round fine but not complete rounds. Any ideas?
Having trouble getting my reload to chamber. Need help.
- Thread starter OkReload
- Start date
- Status
Probably not sizing it enough, is the sizer just touching the shell holder or plate when actually sizing a case?
Do you have any way to measure shoulder position, factory, factory once fired, sized?
If you are crimping, leave that step out and see if they chamber. Actually, try to chamber sized cases first before seating any bullets.
Do you have any way to measure shoulder position, factory, factory once fired, sized?
If you are crimping, leave that step out and see if they chamber. Actually, try to chamber sized cases first before seating any bullets.
AJC1
Member
If you dont have a datum tool a pistol case can work. A 380 or 9mm might be about the right size. My tool uses a 400 for 308 so a 40sw may work well also.
I don't have a datum or a way to measure the shoulder position. I also haven't tried an empty case. That was what I was going to try if the dummy round didn't work. Should I still try the empty even though the dummy works? As far as how I'm sizing, I followed the instructions and lowered it to the shell holder then turned it down another 1/3. I have checked every dimension at least twice (excluding shoulder position) and it is identical to my dummy. No crimp on dummy or complete round. I'm not sure what you mean by using the pistol case. Any link to instructions or video on how? Thank you for your response
Perhaps investing in a 6mm arc case gauge would assist you. It serves to check on your case headspacing to assure proper chambering:
https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=WIL&i=CGARC
Bayou52
https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=WIL&i=CGARC
Bayou52
FROGO207
Member
Sometimes you push the shoulder down and it flares out. Especially if you use a flat base bullet and do not chamfer the inside of the case mouth. You might also be pushing down on the brass by mistake when seating the bullet. When I seat with no crimp I put a sized brass in the press and run it up to max. Then install the seating die and turn it down until it stops on the case mouth, then back it off 1 turn and lock it there. Unscrew the seater stem out enough to make sure the bullet does not go in too far and adjust down as needed to get it where you want it on your dummy or the first round.
You take the 40 case and put it open end over the mouth of the brass and measure total length headstamp to headstamp with calipers to get a comparison length between the two.
You take the 40 case and put it open end over the mouth of the brass and measure total length headstamp to headstamp with calipers to get a comparison length between the two.
Telum Pisces
Member
Plunk test. Coat the bullet and case with dry erase maker and see where it's hitting as you plunk it and try to turn the round in the chamber.
Pull the neck expander ball out of your new die and polish it. My guess is you are pulling the neck and shoulder when the ram is going back down. I had this very same problem with new dies once, and polishing fixed my issue.
Assuming of course, your shell holder touches the die as @Walkalong suggested to check.
Assuming of course, your shell holder touches the die as @Walkalong suggested to check.
barnfrog
Member
I'm not very familiar with the AR platform, so maybe there's a reason why nobody has mentioned this. I'm also relatively new to reloading. The only rounds I've reloaded that I couldn't chamber were because I hadn't seated the primers deep enough. Could that be something to check?
Ok. I will try these suggestions. I tried the plunk test but didn't see anything. I'm a little inclined to think it may be the primer seating due to the dummy being identical with exception of no primer and it works. I will post my results. Thank you all.
JJFitch
Member
You can test primer depth just by placing the primed round an a perfectly flat hard surface if the round tilts or wobbles the primer is high. The round should sit flat, no wobble! Or measure depth with calipers.
I could not get rounds to chamber using the instructions that came with my die set. Follow the die instructions and then add 1/8th- 1/4 turn. Plunk test without bullet. If the round still doesn't plunk test add another 1/8th-1/4 turn with out bullet. I'll bet it tests OK now!
After lubricating the "inside neck" with a dry lube seat a bullet and retry the plunk test. Unless you have a specific reason to crimp it isn't necessary to reduce below SAAMI specs! Try your plunk test again.
Smiles,
I could not get rounds to chamber using the instructions that came with my die set. Follow the die instructions and then add 1/8th- 1/4 turn. Plunk test without bullet. If the round still doesn't plunk test add another 1/8th-1/4 turn with out bullet. I'll bet it tests OK now!
After lubricating the "inside neck" with a dry lube seat a bullet and retry the plunk test. Unless you have a specific reason to crimp it isn't necessary to reduce below SAAMI specs! Try your plunk test again.
Smiles,
Archie
Member
I've had the same problem.
At one point, in utter desperation...
Had a fired case. Decapped it, cleaned it, resized it (including neck expansion) wiped off lubricant and then checked to see if it would chamber. It did, so I seated the primer.
Checked to see if it would chamber. It did. So I charged the case with what I decided (checked loading manual and all that) and seated the intended bullet WITHOUT any crimp at all.
Checked to see if it would chamber. (This creeped me a bit so I was very careful.) It did.
It failed to chamber after I crimped it. So slight I could not see it, but I thought I could feel a suggestion of a bulge in the neck just under the mouth of the case. So I lightened the crimp even more and it all worked.
Doing the reloading process one step at a time gives a real good idea of what to investigate further.
Oh, also look at the bullet after withdrawing it from the rifle. I have had problems with the bullet jamming against the leade. That can come from a number of causes, but it will not fully seat and therefore the action just won't close.
Almost all my 'not chambering' problems come from those two errors.
At one point, in utter desperation...
Had a fired case. Decapped it, cleaned it, resized it (including neck expansion) wiped off lubricant and then checked to see if it would chamber. It did, so I seated the primer.
Checked to see if it would chamber. It did. So I charged the case with what I decided (checked loading manual and all that) and seated the intended bullet WITHOUT any crimp at all.
Checked to see if it would chamber. (This creeped me a bit so I was very careful.) It did.
It failed to chamber after I crimped it. So slight I could not see it, but I thought I could feel a suggestion of a bulge in the neck just under the mouth of the case. So I lightened the crimp even more and it all worked.
Doing the reloading process one step at a time gives a real good idea of what to investigate further.
Oh, also look at the bullet after withdrawing it from the rifle. I have had problems with the bullet jamming against the leade. That can come from a number of causes, but it will not fully seat and therefore the action just won't close.
Almost all my 'not chambering' problems come from those two errors.
lordpaxman
Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2011
- Messages
- 2,434
Welcome to THR!
I’m intrigued by the 6mm ARC, looks like a neat cartridge! Good luck.
Ideally if you’re using your once fired brass in the same chamber, it should chamber as well since it’s been fire formed. @Archie has a good plan - try chambering after each step in the process, that helps narrow down the problem.
I’m intrigued by the 6mm ARC, looks like a neat cartridge! Good luck.
jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,247
Take it step by step and isolate the problem.
That’s the good news, we know that the rifle and case can be happy with one another.
This is good too as you can make a round that fits. Now what is the difference between what you did with the dummy round vs the process you performed on the round that doesn’t work?
CoalCrackerAl
Member
I get that when im lazy and don't run the case in all the way when im resizing. I like the idea of polishing the expander. My Lee ones give more resistance than the RCBS ones do when pulling the case back out.
Blue68f100
Member
Measure your shoulder position using a 9mm case if you don't have a datum tool. If you have any new ammo not fired measure it and compare. Then measure your test cartridge and compare. On a AR you normally need to push the shoulder back to SAMMI Spec. Ar's can overly stretch the brass if over gassed and not tuned properly.
Test brass only and see if it chambers. If so it's in the seating/crimping step. Like earlier said back of the seating die so your not crimping and see if it works. Crimping is not normally needed on a AR if you have sufficient neck tension.
Test brass only and see if it chambers. If so it's in the seating/crimping step. Like earlier said back of the seating die so your not crimping and see if it works. Crimping is not normally needed on a AR if you have sufficient neck tension.
Vern Humphrey
Member
That's a common cause of not chambering -- it can occur when seating the bullet as well, especially if you're seating and crimping in the same stroke.
Run your fingers from the head of the case to the shoulder and see if you can feel any flare.
denton
Member
Your chamber may be tighter than spec. I have a bolt action 30-30 that is that way. A standard die doesn't quite flatten the pressure ring just above the case head, so it stops about 1/4" short of fully seating.
A Sharpie pen will help you find the problem. Coat the case, and check to see where it is rubbed off.
Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
A Sharpie pen will help you find the problem. Coat the case, and check to see where it is rubbed off.
Good luck, and let us know how it works out.
Ok. Got it figured out. It was the shoulder position. It needed a little more from the sizing die. What went wrong was I didn't get the lock ring as tight as I thought and must have backed out after I made my dummy cartridge. But the advice to troubleshoot by checking each step separately is something that I will keep using. Thank you all for the help! I hope I will be able to contribute in the future.
jmorris
Member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2005
- Messages
- 24,247
Well, good thing is you got it figured out and didn’t load 10,000 of them before you caught it. 
If I am happy with a setup and want to know at a glance if anything has moved I often put a witness mark across the items. Any shift from any component jumps out at that point.
If I am happy with a setup and want to know at a glance if anything has moved I often put a witness mark across the items. Any shift from any component jumps out at that point.
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
@OkReload welcome to the forum.
Glad you got it figured out, I've had some issue with cases, 243 win, that sized hard then came out of the die with difficulty, that actually bent the rim on the case head and wouldn't chamber. Had to discard the cases. This issue was due in part to not enough lube on the neck, using a powder type lube, and it work hardend cases. With this condition the cases will also not sit flat either. Just an FYI in case you run I
Into a difficult to size case.
I do the same thing. Not just dies. I have an index mark on my Century 21 adjustable hand priming tool. If it gets turned accidentally, I can see at a glance, put it back, double check it seating depth, and go.
Last edited:
1976B.L.Johns.
Member
Ditto, also helps in other areas mechanics, etc.........other than making ammo.
- Status
