headspace/bump gauge

I anneal the necks with a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. I do it by hand and by time determined by a "red glow" in low-light, typically somewhere between 7 and 12 seconds depending on the cartridge. I have done it after every firing so far, but if my volume increases now that I reload 223, I might not bother for that one.

I'll acknowledge that this might not be "annealing" in some senses of the term. Some people might call it stress relieving or whatever. I'll also acknowledge it's not as precise or consistent as machine torch methods or AMP induction methods. What I do believe is that it reduces the inconsistency between once-fired and resized brass and 12-times fired and resized brass. I am only guessing, since I have no way of knowing, that the torch affects the neck tension characteristics more than it affects the shoulder. Really, I haven't seen much solid evidence that it makes any difference at all. I do know that annealing was adopted in cartridge brass manufacturing to prevent stress corrosion cracking (season cracking) and for reloaders it mostly looks like alchemy but has established itself as popular none-the-less.
Thanks. I was curious. I used to use the torch method myself, but now I see there are specific annealing machines that are available.
 
One way we use to form cases to a chamber is to load one of two with a modest charge and stuff tissue in the neck rather than a bullet and fire it in the back yard or garage, repeat that a couple times and when you start feeling bolt resistance you can start setting your die
Back in the day when primers were easy to come by …..
 
I anneal the necks with a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. I do it by hand and by time determined by a "red glow" in low-light, typically somewhere between 7 and 12 seconds depending on the cartridge. I have done it after every firing so far, but if my volume increases now that I reload 223, I might not bother for that one.

I'll acknowledge that this might not be "annealing" in some senses of the term. Some people might call it stress relieving or whatever. I'll also acknowledge it's not as precise or consistent as machine torch methods or AMP induction methods. What I do believe is that it reduces the inconsistency between once-fired and resized brass and 12-times fired and resized brass. I am only guessing, since I have no way of knowing, that the torch affects the neck tension characteristics more than it affects the shoulder. Really, I haven't seen much solid evidence that it makes any difference at all. I do know that annealing was adopted in cartridge brass manufacturing to prevent stress corrosion cracking (season cracking) and for reloaders it mostly looks like alchemy but has established itself as popular none-the-less.
I would also agree that annealing appears to affect neck tension life.
 
Why do we even need a bump gage ? We have a chamber, couldn’t a fella just adjust the die so rounds chamber freely and if you get a case that needs a tad more adjust the die a tad more ( sneak up on the setting) and leave it there ?

Maybe we just like to assign a number to things..

Yeah, it doesn't get much cheaper than using what you already have. Also avoids issues with measuring instruments...


That said, I too am a guy that likes to quantify things. All one really needs is something with a hole in it, that will provide a reference point (datum) on the case. Cheapest would be using something you already have. Like using a 9mm case gauge with a .308 case.

17973159-D0D1-4992-B9B6-5BFFEC831909.jpeg

They sell these little hex blocks with a 6 different diameter holes that can be handy.

E53866AC-8F30-4B9A-BBCE-34D08F77671F.jpeg

This is my favorite style though, because they remain attached to the calipers and I can machine any diameter insert for them, I need.

8C1AAC95-AF48-491A-9A47-FBB864A2C5EC.jpeg
 
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All one really needs is something with a hole in it, that will provide a reference point (datum) on the case. Cheapest would be using something you already have.
That reminded me of posts from fguffey. I bought Wilson case gauges and the Hornady Comparator because of his numerous datum posts.
 
I anneal the necks with a Bernz-O-Matic propane torch. I do it by hand and by time determined by a "red glow" in low-light, typically somewhere between 7 and 12 seconds depending on the cartridge. I have done it after every firing so far, but if my volume increases now that I reload 223, I might not bother for that one.

I'll acknowledge that this might not be "annealing" in some senses of the term. Some people might call it stress relieving or whatever. I'll also acknowledge it's not as precise or consistent as machine torch methods or AMP induction methods. What I do believe is that it reduces the inconsistency between once-fired and resized brass and 12-times fired and resized brass. I am only guessing, since I have no way of knowing, that the torch affects the neck tension characteristics more than it affects the shoulder. Really, I haven't seen much solid evidence that it makes any difference at all. I do know that annealing was adopted in cartridge brass manufacturing to prevent stress corrosion cracking (season cracking) and for reloaders it mostly looks like alchemy but has established itself as popular none-the-less.
Some will argue the effect, advantage and just about every aspect of annealing. I use it to prevent cracking of range pickups and to assist in inital fire forming in my chambers. I know it absolutely works for those functions. For the purpose of your question, I don't do it every firing, but I also am not making big movements.
 
Why do we even need a bump gage ? We have a chamber, couldn’t a fella just adjust the die so rounds chamber freely and if you get a case that needs a tad more adjust the die a tad more ( sneak up on the setting) and leave it there ?

Maybe we just like to assign a number to things..
There is no need, it's a convenience. Same as case guages.
 
That reminded me of posts from fguffey. I bought Wilson case gauges and the Hornady Comparator because of his numerous datum posts.

Yeah, I never quite got the confusion, put something tapered into a hole until it stops, the contact point has a name, its called the datum. Just a fixed starting point.
 
I have several tools for this. I have both the Hornady and the Sinclair tools that fits on a caliper. Both are about equal in quality and both work the same. I also have the Sinclair hex nut and I have a couple of the RCBS Case Mic's and a few of the Wilson case gauges. Despite having all of these different tools I use the bolt close method more than anything. The tool I use the most is the Hornady or Sinclair tool that fits on my calipers.

It sounds like I went crazy buying tools but some of these were gifted to me and a few others came in package deals from trades or estate sales.
 
Lots of ways to check "shoulder position".

I also have one of those Sinclair hex net gauges, but can't find a pic.
 

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Neither is my Lapua, if you are talking about shoulder position, it will vary .001.
We would be asking too much for it all to be to the same exact thousandth of an inch.

Using my Whidden gauge, my fired 6 Dasher brass (Some fire formed Lapua 6 BR &
some Alpha 6 Dasher), tends to be +.001 or +.002, and my sized -.001 to -.002. YMMV.
View attachment 1187965
You keep flashing that whidden don't you. Had to get one in 06 from a neighbor. Nice tool. Helped Reinforce my opinion of those that think they are going to screw a die and get each bumped two thou
 
Here is a few more ways, to precisely adjust dies, using an inexpensive dial indicator and some 1x1/4" aluminum.


Or even cheaper, print off a metric ruler, cut it out and tape it around the unused 7/8-14 threads and put a witness mark on the lock ring/press 8FA61159-E929-4476-9D37-4AB7D8B90FF8.jpeg

B0343772-3CC2-4FA8-8261-389FD9C538C7.jpeg
 
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