Help! Case Stuck In Sizing Die -550 Dillon

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docgary

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Having just completed the initial section on setting up my brandy new, 36 hours old Dillon 550, I was observing how the sizing die works with .223 brass.(Dillon dies)

I was putting in LUBED cases with spent primers and slightly deformed necks to see the results a sizing die can do. (As I have never even seen a press in action, I was pretty amazed that I was even doing this!)The first few cases came thru brilliantly - nicely shaped ,close to original, primer neatly falling into the holding tray.Then tradedy struck - On the upsweep, feel was sort of resistant -by the time I realized that it would be in my best interest to stop, the damage was done.
STUCK CASING!!!!!​
Holding the bile and vomit in my mouth, I followed the directions from Dillon:

"In the event of a stuck case...remove silver clip, loosen stem lock and then spin it up to the top of the stem. With a wrench, turn the depriming assembly INTO the case - ie clockwise turns will loosen the stuck case. Use pliers to remove the case from the depriming assembly."
NOT!!!!​
I'm posting this with a humorous bent but Im really upset....I hope i didnt permanently scew up the die.
The case freely turns and travels up and down on the decapping pin - but the shell is caught/stuck higher up.

ANY SUGGESTIONS?

TIA
docgary
 
You turned the decapping pin into the case to unstick it from the die. So I take it is now free from die & just stuck on pin. Now you just have to get it off the pin.

You can use the shell holder if you still have a rim on case. Probably no rim - or the case wouldn't be stuck.

You can use pliers near the base & tap light with a small hammer straight down on pliers right next to base. (being careful)

Now the decap pin will need to be back upwards. Take it all the way out & look at it while you are at it. Kind of gives a better idea of the workings.

Oh & I never get stuck cases ! ! How'd you do that? Once fire range pick-up from an unknown source? Even though I had a ton of it I followed somesones advice & bought 100 new cases.

The other rookie move is not adjusting the sizing die down enough - Which has never happened to me either.

Later,
WNTFW
 
the "expert" fixes problem!

I'll rat myself out and tell you why this happened....

As stated, I really was impressed on it's operation....soooo...
I challenged the die to resize progressively deformed cases!
The final one was when I squashed the neck about 35-40% out of round.

The sound and feel of resistance was the expander ball doing its thing..
I simply could not get the decapping pin out of the case because
the expander ball was stuck in the neck!

I proceeded to Dremel the case at the shoulder - freeing the decapping pin -
except the expander ball was still lodged in the case neck -
meaning I stripped off the expander ball insert/sleeve from the stem!

I carefully worked out the expander ball insert from the
remnants of the case with no visable damage.
Since it appeared that there was no proper orientation to the insert,
I simply placed it between the pin and stem, screwing it tight.
A CAREFUL repay with a MILDLY deformed neck worked flawlessly.

Keep in mind that I never even saw a working press, never mind
diagnosing and fixing a problem with parts coming off!

I WAS SWEATING!!!!

BUT YOU KNOW THE SAYING, "THAT WHICH DOESN'T KILL YOU MAKES YOU STRONGER!

NOW , I FEEL EXTREMELY CONFIDENT IN THE WORKINGS AND PARTS OF THE DILLON SIZING DIE!
___________________________________

WNTFW:

Did I do good? Anything to watch out for?
Oh, I forgot...While Dremelling, I nicked the tip of the decapping pin -
very slight but decided to swap it out with the 2nd one Dillon packed.

TIA
Docgary
 
Congrats on the fix!

The other rookie move is not adjusting the sizing die down enough - Which has never happened to me either.

That is a good one to know before I start reloading my .223....

Justin
 
Stuck cases are never much fun. I can clear one in about 20 minutes now in my RCBS dies. Had to do 3 of them in my last round of progressive work on my Piggyback. Not bad, but still, I should have been using more lube.
 
I know that sick feeling. Some of us like quick learning curves. Just dont take risk in certain areas.

If you take a taper to the case first, to put hole back rounder it helps.
Use a drift pin, awl, punch or whatever with the right size range.

I get some miliitary range pick up that is very mixed. Some was from machine guns and it can be fairly mutilated. That is usually what the stuck case is from. I put them aside & go to the better cases. I take any case to be scrapped & smash it with pliers so I don't give a 2nd look. Same for brass that is just too nasty to get clean or may be unsafe.

Trying to save every piece of brass is some kind of reloading disease symptom. That and trying to coordinate the tumbler load/tumble/unload schedule seemlessly into your daily routine.

I've had enough Dremel time to keep mine away from the press & dies. I did have to straighten a pin, which will fail easier now. I bought a Lee Universal Decapping die so I can deprime on a single stage separately if I want to. IE deprime brass I have no dies for or crimped brass
- see disease symptom above.

I didn't get the full understanding of the 550B until I spent some time observing it up close by myself. There is a lot going on at once in a small area. I'm the type that want to know every idiosyncracy of a machine though.

I would match roundness/bevel of the other pin if you can.
 
Same here, i just started. But with 2000+ rounds ready to load (all cheap range pickup) There are some brands that size harder than others. Buy a stuck case remover kit (drill , tap and shell holder tool) works great and only 18.00 I have used mine about 10 times total takes about 4 min total . even found some berdan 223?? -1 decaping pin LOL
 
BigBird1: 1 guy gave me 1200 rds but 800 were steel berdan - I looked on the bright side 400 were nice brass & a magnet separates them.

Strat81: I'm going to try the imperial resizing wax - especially on .270 & .30-06 which will probably not be on the Dillon.

The wire lube sounds interesting, maybe one day I'll try it.
 
I've been using Lee water based lube, it comes in a tube and it's white and to my eye appears to be a teflon product. I chose it because it is garanteed not to interfere with powder or primers like an oil based product can.

I've used it for 20 + years now and so far so good. You don't need a lot of it, a little goes a long way.

I load .243, 7.62X39, .308, 6.5-06, 30-06 and .300Wby - all without a hitch.
 
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