Help Cleaning Stainless Steel

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EdLaver

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I just shot my GP100 Stainless today for the 1st time. Two hours later I get home to clean and I have pesky carbon deposits around the front of the cylinder, chamber, and firing pin that no matter how hard I wipe or use Hoppes No. 9, I cannot get that stainless look back even close. Anyone have cleaning advice? What product to use?

Thanks.
 
There are products such as Wipe Away cloth that will get rid of the discoloration, but be warned that the discoloration will return the next time you shoot. My advise and many will disagree is to get rid of as much carbon discoloration with whatever cleaner you are using and leave the rest. It does not interfere with the functioning of the revolver. If this bothers your ACD increase your meds. More damage is done to guns by overcleaning than shooting them.
 
I've used Mothers Mag polish with good results in getting the circles off the front of the cylinder. It just takes a SMALL amount to do it. You can use a brass brush with #9 or CLP to clean around the firing pin area. Be carefull where you use the Mothers Mag Polish on the major exterior surfaces of the pistol if you don't want it real shiny. I used the Mothers (intentionally) to polish my stainless Anaconda to a mirror like finish.
 
I use the Lead Away patches made by Kleen-Bore. I have found the cloths to be a waste of material as you only need one or two patches to clean the cylinder face.

Just don't use them on blued guns!
 
To get every trace of burn ring off requires some sort of abrasive cloth or polish. As long as there are no caked-on carbon deposits so thick that they reduce the flash gap and cause the cylinder to drag or bind, minor burn rings don't hurt anything.
 
I use the Lead Away patches made by Kleen-Bore. I have found the cloths to be a waste of material as you only need one or two patches to clean the cylinder face.

Just don't use them on blued guns!

+1

....... its normal and inherent to revolvers. Even more so when shooting cast loads.

To get every trace of burn ring off requires some sort of abrasive cloth or polish. As long as there are no caked-on carbon deposits so thick that they reduce the flash gap and cause the cylinder to drag or bind, minor burn rings don't hurt anything.

+1
 
Buy a stainless steel bristle toothbrush style brush from your gun dealer and use it along with Hoppes #9. Together with a little elbow grease you will remove all traces of burnt carbon from the face of your cylinder and where ever else you decide to use it. :D

I have yet to try the brass toothbrushes style brushes, but I suspect they may work as well also.


-Rick
 
Hi Ed from Maine,

Yes you can. I bought a old Police trade in S&W 64 from CDNN, that had the matt finish. Within a hour it will look great. Keep at it for another 2-3 and it is a mirror. Looks like you are from Maine. Pull the grips off, and the cylinder out, and you have a winter project.
Keep at it and it will shine like a nickle plated Python.:):) Get the 10 ounce Mothers, Autozone, or about any other auto parts store, and it will last a lifetime.
 
Does anyone know what Mothers would do to a blue gun?

It is a polish so it will probably remove the bluing.
 
Heck, just wipe the main powder soot off and go shoot it again, keep the safe queens polished and shoot the rest.

A dirty sooty gun impresses the stuffing out of me a whole lot more that a pretty polished Queen.
 
"Keep at it and it will shine like a nickle plated Python."

Have you ever seen a factory-polished stainless Python? I saw one in a shop about 20years ago, sitting right next to a nickel-plated Python. You couldn't tell them apart. What do those Colt guys use?
 
If it really bothers you, that is going over the face of the cylinder with a brass brush and solvent does not make it clean enough, use a toothbrush and Soft Scrub.

I have taken the cylinder off, gone to the kitchen sink and used Soft Scrub on a toothbrush.

Then I wash the cylinder in hot soapy water and blow dry it.
 
When cleaning a stainless security six, I use either breakfree with a bronze brush, or outers nitro bore cleaner, with a bronze brush. Or both...either way it comes out looking brand new :)
 
I clean my Red Hawk and 686 (only two stainless revolvers I have ) with Hoppe #9 and Break free but I use Metal Glo or Fritz to polish the cylinder face and other area that have black carbon mark. The problem is everytime you shoot your GP 100 you will have the black mark back on again.
 
Heck, just wipe the main powder soot off and go shoot it again, keep the safe queens polished and shoot the rest.

A dirty sooty gun impresses the stuffing out of me a whole lot more that a pretty polished Queen.
That's my method, but this time of year with bad weather, cabin fever sets in, so it's hoppe's and a tooth brush.
 
for carbon ,breakfreeclp and a brush . to get a matte ss finish brighter(you can't mirror a matte without a buffing marathon) i br freeclp with a microfiber cloth , rub hard ,dry with papertowel or dry microfiber cloth.(spend the cash for the microfiber -don't use papertowels for anything unless you pat lightly) mothers has good results but since i have found fw1 wax(anything wax) i never delt with anything else again. no residue at all left behind,not even heavy coats in the cracks and spaces. but a repetitive clp and fw1 technique will do the best job. fw1 is used at the track for minimal cleaning on oil and grease laden body parts. once i put 3 coats of fw1 on my car i did not have to wash it (ever again). the dirt does not stick and the shine is hardcoat slick. try it ,results won't vary ,they all will cause you to drop mothers. once again ,without mechanical buffing a matte will not turn to a mirror. it will get alot shinier though. noticeably brighter. oh and if you put my 1982 ss python next to my nickel 1974 the nickel is deeper ,a bit brighter and has a look of wetness that a bright ss don't. ss is excellent looking though.
 
hey jet man ,you did that by hand from a matte starting point? then i take back what i said in my last post and declare that i am wrong about not being able to mirror a matte without a buffer.
 
Brasso

I use Brasso or any other similar brass polishing cotton that comes in a tin can. It is less abrasive than other methods. A retired gunsmith told me about it.
 
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