I’ll add a couple things.
1. You do need a good manual, not just load data. The reason being that a good manual will explain the reasons why you do, or do not do certain things in reloading. It explains the technical details of what goes on in the reloading process to help you not make mistakes that can result in the loss of a good firearm; or worse, body parts or your life. The Lee manuals do an excellent job of explaining everything, but are somewhat disappointing in the way data is presented. Other manuals are the opposite. That’s why two or three manuals is a good idea.
2. I’d pick one caliber to start loading. You can buy as many die sets as you’d like, but starting with only one of your stated calibers will allow you to become comfortable and proficient at the reloading process before adding the idiosyncrasies of other cartridges. I would suggest starting with .38 Special (or .357 Magnum) as they are the most forgiving and easiest to learn, but what you start with may be dictated by which primers you can find first.
3. There is not likely to be one single powder that you can use with all the different cartridges you listed. What works for a 9 mm will (probably) work with .38, .357, and .380, but more than likely won’t work with .223 and .308. The same is likely to be true in reverse as well. While there are some powders that overlap somewhat between pistol and rifle, they aren’t generally a good idea in terms of flexibility or variety of components. You are much more likely to find a powder that works for all of your pistol calibers, and another that works for your rifles. As you load more, you’ll probably find that you’ll like a variety of powders for different loads in each category.
4. You’ll likely also need a primer pocket swager for your .223 and .308 cartridges. A lot of them have crimped in primers, and while it is possible to reload crimped primer cases without a swager, it will present a great deal of frustration. The only way to be sure is to examine your cases after they have been deprimed to see if they need to be swaged to remove the left over part of the crimp. Here is what I use
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012920663 .
5. You will need to trim all of the cartridge cases you indicated above, with the possible exception of .38/.357, but it is also a good idea to trim those as well. Brass has a tendency to change length as it is fired and resized. To prevent the brass from getting too long to function correctly, you’ll need to trim off any excess length of brass. This can be accomplished with a variety of trimming tools, but you’ll likely need a different trim die for each individual cartridge you reload.
6. Always examine your brass. While it might be tempting to skip this step, you want to make sure there are no defects in any of your cases that might cause a failure to function, or worse a catastrophic failure that destroys a firearm or causes bodily injury.
The costs can quickly add up. Unless you have unlimited time and funds, start slow and add components and dies as your needs, budget, and skill level dictates. Good luck.
