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wild03

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Hello, I always wanted to learn how to reload but never got around to it, I realize this is probably the worse time.

Well, my real question is what the experts would recommend, I saw NAtchez has a
Lee Classic Turret Press Kit for $238
would like to start getting die sets for:
308
223
38/357
9mm
380

probably lee 4 die sets if possible.
I have collected brass over the years, I'm not looking for accuracy or anything, just to hoard as things get harder to find and more expensive.
Given todays availability, What would you recommend to get that is on the cheaper side?
which primers i would need and from where, powder, bullets, etc.

I have calipers and super precision scale. I would need to do a lot of reading, as i only have a vague idea of what is involved but I rather not postpone getting some supplies to long.

Thanks in advance.
 
The Lee Classic Turret press is very good as are Lee’s die sets. As for brass I order mine directly from Starline. I would suggest getting the ABC’s of reloading and Lymans 50th edition loading handbook for starters. The load books will tell you what primers you need but for the calibers you listed you will need small pistol, small and large rifle primers. As for powders Unique or Universal powder would be a great place to start for 38/357 and 9mm. I don’t load for .380, .223 or .308 so I won’t make any suggestions.
 
So any of the good single stage presses are good, C or O style ... RCBS makes a couple of good ones like the Rockchucker and their new Rebel Press. Lyman and Lee make good entry level low volume presses as well.

The two manuals mentioned above are good but I'd probably start with the latest Speer or Hornady manual ... and I have just about all of them. I'd also watch some good YouTube videos ... there are tons of them.

Unique and Universal are two good pistol powders, H110 for magnums. IMR4895 is fine when just starting out on 5.56 or 7.62 .... it's what the military uses but at this stage in the game get one you can. RL15, Varget, H4895, etc., are all good. Forget about trying to find N140 or 135 or 133 or N540 or any of those ... plus they are very expensive right now.

RCBS has a good deal going right now on a set of dies, a shell holder and 1000 primers for various calibers. I'd start with a straight walled pistol caliber were I you. Small pistol primers are hard to come by right now.

If you are a veteran use that to get discounts with various companies ... it'll save you a lot of money over the long haul. Anything Vista Outdoors is excellent ... they are good people. That includes RCBS, Bushnell, CCI, Hoppes and on and on and on all under the Vista umbrella.
 
The Lee turret presses are really good. I would suggest using it as a single stage to start with until you get a good understanding of each step. (Just remove the auto-advance bar). Lee dies are decent - especially their Factory Crimp Dies. That being said, I do use other brand dies (Lyman, Forster, and RCBS) for some calibers. The Lyman 50th is a great reference and I would get the Lee Modern Reloading 2nd Edition too. Just keep in mind that the "kits" really do not have everything you need. Case cleaning, trimming, deburring, removing primer crimps, are all things you will need to do and the kits either do not include what you need or what is there barely does the job. You have a caliper and a scale, so you are already ahead of the curve on that front. As far as primers:

308 - Large Rifle Primers
223 - Small Rifle/Small Rifle Magnum/CCI 41 (If loading for an AR15, some only use Magnum or 41 primers to avoid slam fires - I load with just small rifle primers and have no issues)
38/357 - Small Pistol/Small Pistol Magnum primers (depending on the load - some powders NEED a magnum primer, and some don't)
9mm - Small Pistol
380 - Small Pistol

Start low and work up. Don't rush it and enjoy the process.
 
First welcome to this adventure we call reloading or handloading.
You will probably be able to assemble a goodly amount of stuff over the next few months or so if you are patient. Get that kit if you wish as it is as good as any for the price. It comes with the Lee Modern Reloading book and that is a good place to start. Read the how to in the front then get a couple of the others mentioned as well. Used ones still show how to reload and have all but the newest data, That is available on line for free as well. In the top of this subforum there is a reloading wisdom section you can read for weeks to get through. After a bit you can get to tell who is a good you tuber and who to not pay attention to. After you read/learn you will have some specific questions and we as a group will gladly answer them at that time.
The primers are the problem item to get presently so be patient, they will come back in stock some day. Then buy enough that you will not be SOL again.
 
I really don’t have much to recommend that hasn’t already been mentioned. I agree with @FROGO207 that the Lee reloading book is a very good book for learning the basics. I found that the Lee books explain a lot of things about reloading in a way that doesn’t make reloading seem so difficult or intimidating. The Lyman book is a good resource as well.
I do recommend that you get at least 3 different manuals for reloading so that you can corroborate information. I like the Hornady manual as well. I believe #11 came out recently.
I definitely recommend the Lee 4 die sets if available.
Personally, I use the Lee Challenger “Breech Lock” single stage and I really like it. The breech lock adapters make changing dies easy and you don’t have to readjust dies once set.
With the turret you will have to buy extra plates for setting up your dies but that will work out nicely also. If you switch cartridges all you need to do is swap plates and the dies stay with the plate.
I would add a set of Lyman scale test weights for verifying your scale. They help you feel confident that your scale is accurate.
Since you’re ordering from Natchez here’s the link for the Lyman weights and the price is a little high but much higher from other sources.
https://outdoors.natchezss.com/bestsellers/Lyman-Scale-Weights

Good luck in your new venture. It is a very enjoyable hobby / past time.
 
Your first purchase should be books. It's a good ideas to have at least few different reloading Manuel's . The "ABCs of reloading" series is a great one to get started with. The great thing about a book is you have it forever & it dosent keep changing its mind. You will have a much better idea about the path you want to take. Component shortages have come & gone over the years. Primers are always the thing. Dont worry about it.
 
@wild03, welcome to THR!
Lots of good advice here, the press you picked out will work just fine. I started on a single stage RCBS, but if you’re just looking to reload any press and any dies will work just fine.
I too used Universal powder for the calibers you reloaded, it will work just fine through a large range of bullets, but I’d suggest you get a faster powder as well, maybe W231 or W244. The faster powders will work much better for target loads to get started.
RMR has a lot of bullets you can choose from, and most are jacketed, some plated which makes reloading a lot easier to start.
Your rifle loads will work with IMR 4895, it’s like a universal rifle powder, but there are more optimum powders for each caliber.
Whatever primers you can get will work, when you see them for a reasonable price, buy them. Don’t forget your LGS may have all you need as well. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
I’ll add a couple things.

1. You do need a good manual, not just load data. The reason being that a good manual will explain the reasons why you do, or do not do certain things in reloading. It explains the technical details of what goes on in the reloading process to help you not make mistakes that can result in the loss of a good firearm; or worse, body parts or your life. The Lee manuals do an excellent job of explaining everything, but are somewhat disappointing in the way data is presented. Other manuals are the opposite. That’s why two or three manuals is a good idea.

2. I’d pick one caliber to start loading. You can buy as many die sets as you’d like, but starting with only one of your stated calibers will allow you to become comfortable and proficient at the reloading process before adding the idiosyncrasies of other cartridges. I would suggest starting with .38 Special (or .357 Magnum) as they are the most forgiving and easiest to learn, but what you start with may be dictated by which primers you can find first.

3. There is not likely to be one single powder that you can use with all the different cartridges you listed. What works for a 9 mm will (probably) work with .38, .357, and .380, but more than likely won’t work with .223 and .308. The same is likely to be true in reverse as well. While there are some powders that overlap somewhat between pistol and rifle, they aren’t generally a good idea in terms of flexibility or variety of components. You are much more likely to find a powder that works for all of your pistol calibers, and another that works for your rifles. As you load more, you’ll probably find that you’ll like a variety of powders for different loads in each category.

4. You’ll likely also need a primer pocket swager for your .223 and .308 cartridges. A lot of them have crimped in primers, and while it is possible to reload crimped primer cases without a swager, it will present a great deal of frustration. The only way to be sure is to examine your cases after they have been deprimed to see if they need to be swaged to remove the left over part of the crimp. Here is what I use https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012920663 .

5. You will need to trim all of the cartridge cases you indicated above, with the possible exception of .38/.357, but it is also a good idea to trim those as well. Brass has a tendency to change length as it is fired and resized. To prevent the brass from getting too long to function correctly, you’ll need to trim off any excess length of brass. This can be accomplished with a variety of trimming tools, but you’ll likely need a different trim die for each individual cartridge you reload.

6. Always examine your brass. While it might be tempting to skip this step, you want to make sure there are no defects in any of your cases that might cause a failure to function, or worse a catastrophic failure that destroys a firearm or causes bodily injury.

The costs can quickly add up. Unless you have unlimited time and funds, start slow and add components and dies as your needs, budget, and skill level dictates. Good luck.
 
As one who is relatively new at this......I'm normally content to ask questions vs. offer answers........but as one who is only a few steps up the path from the OP, I'd have to ask the OP what is his motivation for wanting to reload, as well as expectations? I ask as it already matters as this goes beyond a fork in the road. At his level, he is in a room with many doors, each leading to it's own pathway which is where he will encounter the forks in the road. For now, he needs to pick the right door.

So for reference, while it is seldom stated as such......more like understood or implied by those in the know.......there is a difference between reloading and handloading. I'm a low volume reloader. My goal from reloading is a reliable source of good quality, relatively accurate ammo that goes BANG.......and whatever it is on the receiving end knows I meant business. (Usually a deer or varmint). Then there are others on this forum that shoot more in a month than I will shoot in a lifetime. Then there are the handloaders and competitive shooters for which accuracy means everything. So which is the OP? All that gets to motivation of the OP, so he can start down the right path.

But as for the rest as relates to what to buy and what is available to buy..........can you get started reloading today............. what I have found is this. There are basic hardware needs that apply to all. The press, dies, scales, powder measures, tumblers, case trimmers, case gauges, etc. Some generic to all and some caliber specific.......almost all of that is now relatively easy to find from both normal retail outlets as new, but also good deals on used if you have the time to look. Hardware is not your problem. And as for entry level stuff that makes ammo that goes BANG.......you need look no further than the LEE equipment. That is their market niche.

Then there are the components......bullets, powder, primers. In the current market climate, this gets dicey PDQ. There is what a person may want, have heard about, would like to try........and there is what you can actually find. In general, you can find bullets that will work. You can probably find powders that will work. What all are struggling with today is primers. Availability of it all getting better today than when I started some 8 to 9 months back, but still nothing like "normal".

Having said all that, I'm now setup to load for 5 different rifle calibers and in 9 months have accumulated enough hardware and components to load for several years of consumption at my historic rates and have managed to find it all at what are now normal retail prices. So concept is doable.

But almost any goal for either reloading or handloading is now doable.
 
One thing that is probably the most important to realize. You don’t know what you don’t know. There are many questions you need to ask that you don’t know you need to ask just yet. There are processes you don’t know about, there are tools you don’t know exist to make things easier. There are many things of which new loaders are ignorant of that will have bearing on their future in this hobby. The above is just a fact, not meant to be an insult, and refers to most hobbies, anyone just starting out doesn’t really know the little things that sometimes are big things.

That said, here are the basic questions I ask anyone starting out.
What is your budget for tools and components?
How many rounds do you expect to shoot per month?
Are you fairly mechanically inclined?
Do you have a place to setup and work at with no distractions?
What are your goals for your ammo? Ie target, competition, hunting, defense?
Where are you located? Maybe someone is close by and willing to mentor you.
 
start with 9mm or 357. It’s the easiest, buy some dies and crank always! YT is your best friend fir step by step
 
That's the press i started on and still have setup and use frequently. Can be a little more complex and intimidating for a beginner, but much simpler than a progressive. It's in between single stage & progressive kind of so very useful at a good price.

As mentioned, pick one & go from there. Build on what you learn. You're going to have something unique about each of those calibers, so I'd get one down and then branch out. Otherwise it might get confusing. 38 probably the simplest on that list but none are difficult.

I like simplicity so I use Win231 or HP38 for [most] all things pistol. It's versatile and works well. There are others that will cover a broad range like that so I'd start with one of those. Less chance of error. You will find instances where something else is better - W296 is a better choice to make a full house 357mag load, but you can load it with W231 and have good results. This will confuse you because for every caliber you're gonna get 8,692 powder recommendations for it. When you branch out, I'd ask like this: "I'm using Trail Boss for my 38 spcl loads and want to get into 380ACP. Is Trail Boss good for that too?" But a good starting point might be Win231, Trail Boss, Unique, Bullseye, Titegroup, 700X - something like those - popular & versatile - you'll find data easier and a lot more people using your same powder + bullet combinations.

Also try to work in what your goal is with your questions. Are you loading to save $, to make match ammo, just to be self sufficient and have the tools and knowledge just in case, etc. There is a huge difference between the guy who loads 20k rounds of training ammo per year and the guy who loads 20 rounds hunting ammo. Without knowing what your goal/intent is, most will answer from their POV and it might lead to spending $ you shouldn't, wasting time, or neglecting some details.
 
@wild03 welcome to the forum. There is a lot of good information above. There is a website I use a lot for reload data called shooters reference, it's a database of manufactures load data, even has some obscure, obsolete cartridges.

I've been helping a friend start reloading, one of his questions to me was, what's the best powder for all of my cartridges? That is a complicated question. That invoked a lot a of questions from me, one of which was. Best for what? The answer for him was what is usable in all 4. Ok there is a list that all work, some better than others, but I gave him a list of powders that I verified at the oboe mentioned website and said choose the one that you is in stock.

223 and 308 have several powders that will perform well including, but not limited to, imr and hodgen 4895, imr 4064. Blc2 imr 3031, as 2230, 2495, 2460, 2520. For pistol calibers I've been using hs6 iirc usable in all of your listed cartridges.

There is a tool that I haven't seen mentioned yet, a bullet puller. Sooner or later we all make mistakes and a good bullet puller is a must I use an rcbs collet puller but there are others even enertia, hammer type.
 
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I didn't read all if the replies but I did read a few.

All of the gear needed is available. What is the hard part is primers. Finding them local is the best bet, and if you have a few friends that grab a box of ammo here and there for you, have them look for primers too.

Small pistol primers is needed for all the pistol calibers listed. Small rifle for 223 and large rifle for 308. Standard primers are best but magnum primers can be used depending on various things. Example. It's much safer to substitute magnum primers in 38 special target rounds than for 9mm. Because, 9mm works at a higher pressure without as much wiggle room to the max allowable pressure. 38 target loads are lower in pressure than what 38 can safely be loaded to, and thus there is much more of a safety margin since you won't know what difference in pressure there will be from substituting a magnum primer.

Ive not loaded 223, but there are differences in small rifle primers. Not all small rifle primers will take the pressure of 223. Some are made for cartridges such as 22 hornet. I am not familiar with their specifics since I don't load that class of rifle cartridges. A quick search of the primers in hand will tell you enough to purchase them or not in regards to 223.

Anyways, the point is, buy primers when you see them.

Powder is wide application. Most pistol powders will work in the calibers listed except for magnum pistol powder.

There is a lot of overlap in rifle powders too. A bolt action can digest a wider range than a semiauto.

Looking at a loading manual to see powders suggested for all the calibers helps you to know which powder to grab when you see it.

Marvinstuart.com has both the lee and Lyman 48 manuals free for download. They are both good for learning the how and why, but I prefer Lyman for the data.

The best thing you could do is find a mentor. I'm glad to offer my knowledge to those close enough.
 
There will likely be a better time to start reloading, but perhaps you would rather not wait. Lee makes a few passable products, but I don't recommend their presses or die sets. Obviously others disagree. Most other die and press manufacturers offer better construction at a higher price, money well spent if you stick with reloading, and hold their value better if you don't.
 
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One thing I might add to all the good info above is a note book. Take notes on everything this will be valuable for a long time. I personally found making a check list of my loading procedures and marking it off when I finish a step helps me develop a routine so I don’t miss a step.
 
One thing I might add to all the good info above is a note book. Take notes on everything this will be valuable for a long time. I personally found making a check list of my loading procedures and marking it off when I finish a step helps me develop a routine so I don’t miss a step.

This ^ ^ ^ very important
Write every detail of the load down
and keep for future reference
Notebooks don't crash and lose data
or need electricity

JMHO- proceed not necessarily slowly
but deliberately
You're not in a race, and there's plenty of
time to make sure that everything is how
it should be. If you think you need to
double check something, triple check it.
There's no reason to skip the step of
closely inspecting everything before
assembling your ammunition

Good Luck
 
Great information is generated by many of the individuals who frequent this forum! I can't add to much of what has been already said, other than reinforce the suggestion of having multiple manuals to read and study (Lyman and Lee to mention just 2). Then apply some of your personal practice work with good old common sense added to questions like you asked above on issues you may run into as you proceed.

You will find many different opinions about what press or die is the best. Start slow with what you have and practice in loading what we all preach at the range.

Safety, Safety, Safety! Practice and patience always works!!!

Keep up your researching of all aspects of the process and keep asking questions here and of people you can trust.

Good Luck!!! Find out what works best for you and enjoy!!! God Bless!
 
Thank you so much for all the replies, lots of great info. sorry about the delay replying.

Great questions too. I hope I don't miss any on my reply, Here is some context:
My time currently is very limited. I won't be able to reload a cartridge in a while, maybe months. And as some have suggested it will be a slow process. I like the 38/357 idea and was my first gut feeling. since the revolver being 357 would be more forgiving starting with 38.
One thing I didn't see mention, or maybe I missed it. Is there a need for a chronograph? How would I know that the loading is going as planned?

I am mechanically inclined, and like learning new things, the reason i own a mini lathe and a 3d printer,
The idea with loading up with "OK" equipment now is that I see that inflation is coming. I expect prices to go up sharply in the near future. Also, the political landscape will continue to chip away at the 2nd amendment, the trend is to restrict never to undue restrictions, How long before ammo is even harder to find?
That said, My goal is to be self sufficient. I don't compete, I don't hunt, (yet) meaning if SHTF and I have to find food i will have to. accuracy is not a big factor as long as it is in the ballpark. I like the idea of being able to control the powder charge, make subsonic ammo for example.
I wouldn't might casting bullets from car batteries as a lost resort. (is that a thing?) I've done it as a teen for making slingshot ammo not sure how batteries have changed over the years.
I remember a few years back when you could walk into the local walmart and get 100rds bulk pack of 9mm Winchester for $11. The shelves are now empty all the time. I imagine the price now if you ever find them is 3 times as much, I have not bought ammo in a while since i stockpiled over the years.
So i hope that brings a bit of perspective.
I was hoping to get ahead of the mess. take advantage of your vast knowledge to tell me:
"Get this from here, that from there. and you will be set when you are ready to start".

maybe i'm approaching it wrong. but that was my hope anyways. I looked at dylan years ago, but the $500 seemed like overkill for these needs, I was hoping that lee could get the job done.

Again thank you for the replies, I will compile the information in a notebook. and will post as soon as i can in the meantime please keep the information coming, it is greatly appreciated .
 
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You don't NEED a chronograph, but access to one (use a buddy's, one owned by the range/club, etc). It's very useful data.

I wouldn't consider Lee just "OK" - look at it like good, better, best if you want to, but it's still good. Some will trash Lee, some will praise them. I call it like I see it and my experience is most of there stuff is good and works. Some stinkers, but overall you're not trading quality or longevity or warranty for cost. There might be nicer stuff out there for some tasks, but don't think for a second you can't crank out great ammo with Lee gear. As a side note - I would bet a jelly donut that some of the most vocal "Lee sux" crowd owns & uses their universal decap die at a minimum :) But stuff is interchangeable. Put Lee dies on a Dillon press (what I do for >1/2 my setups). Put Redding dies on an RCBS press. Mix & match as much as you want. I don't think anyone would have heartburn setting up a Dillon progressive press for .223 with an RCBS small base sizing die, Dylan powder die, Hornady or Redding micrometer seating die, and a Lee factory crimp die. Other than buying single dies vs a set isn't economical, that would be a pretty good setup that plays on strengths of each IMO.

Easiest thing is to buy a "kit" - problem is all I've seen have you paying for stuff you don't want or including marginal items - exception would be Dillon but that's big $ and long wait times right now. And that's not exactly a kit, but ordering all your accessories at same time with the press.

I like your idea of the Lee turret press. But first thing to buy as others have said is a manual. Read that, learn the process (and watch videos & stuff too). You'll figure out real quick what you need in addition to the press & dies.

If you're going to be low volume, that's another good reason to go with a heavy Lee mix. Inexpensive, works, but can be slower/inefficient. When i set to load 9mm, I'm filling 4 30 cal cans on that run (almost 5k). For .223 I'm going to run about 3 50 cal cans (3500). So what I use to trim .223 is different than what you should use to do batches of a few hundred for example. But if I setup to do 6.5CM, I'm doing 50-100 and that's mostly all Lee stuff and on my Lee press. No way I'm spending the $ or setup time on a Dillon progressive to run 100 of something. Spend and extra $10 when buying the dies for the turret press and that setup stays in tact. Can't beat it. Just what the spare Dillon toolhead would cost me so i don't have to tear down a setup is enough for the set of Lee dies + the trimmer pilot + the spare turret ring. I don't mean the full dillon toolhead complete with dies - I mean just the part that goes into the press to hold the dies.

But.....and you can read these lists all over THR if you poke around this forum.....you need press, dies, way to clean brass (warm soapy water is sufficient), calipers, case trimmer (depending), case gauge (depending), reference manuals, powder scale, way to dispense powder, understanding wife, solid work bench, chamfer/debur tool (depending). But from there, it's 100 different ways to clean brass, 100 different ways to trim it, 100 different ways to measure powder, 100 different ways to prep brass, etc etc. Then there are other specialty tools for all sorts of tasks. Some you will need for different calibers - like removing primer crimps or for different tasks. With a turret press you'll most likely want a press mounted powder measure for example. not a must have, but you'll see a bottleneck there without it.

I wouldn't even really go with a shopping list I or anyone else here makes for you because you don't know what you don't know. You'd be buying stuff just to re-buy it in the future because what you got wasn't best suited for what you're doing. And even asking without fully understanding will lead you astray. If you ask me "what's the best way to deal with crimped brass?" I'll tell you I use a swage-it or a Dillon super swage. A lot of people will tell you the Dillon Super Swage is a great tool. And it is. But it's $100+ and if you're doing like 100 pieces a month or less of crimped brass (you only remove the crimp once then it's gone for all future reloads) you'd have spent $100 when the chamfer tool you already have would do that amount easily.

So really, just learn. Outside of some books, I wouldn't spend a penny right now. You're not gonna find primers anyway unless you want to spend a dime or so each for them....
 
"Well, my real question is what the experts would recommend"

This puts your post into an entirely different category. What would be recommended for a beginner is usually not what "experts" (whatever that is) would use.

The best advice I can give from over 45 yrs of handloading is to not buy cheap stuff. Save your money and get good quality equipment right from the start. May take a few more months to save the money but you will be much happier with the higher quality equipment Good equipment will last you a life time and then some. If you buy cheap stuff you will only wind up getting the better equipment latter on. Remember, only rich people can afford to buy cheap stuff.

Read a LOT of posts from handloading sites. After a while you will be able to determine who knows their stuff and who doesn't. Get AT LEAST 3 handloading manuals. One that I really like is the Lyman manual. Hornady also makes a great manual.

Stay with a single stage press while beginning. A MANUALLY OPERATED turret press works great. Forget any progressive presses at this time.

Ask questions. People on this site and others are more than happy to help you.
 
"Well, my real question is what the experts would recommend"

This puts your post into an entirely different category. What would be recommended for a beginner is usually not what "experts" (whatever that is) would use.

....

Sorry for the misunderstanding, the question is more what would experts recommend for a beginner with my goals.

I don't plan on doing thousands of rounds at a time, probably 200 at a time the most sometimes even less. but i would like to stockpile enough raw material for a few thousands of rounds if possible,
 
Forgot probably the most important "item". Find a mentor. Someone who knows how to handload, not someone who is also new to the hobby or someone who thinks they know what they are doing. A good mentor, someone who has, "been there, done that" is super valuable and can save you money advising you what NOT to buy.
 
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