Help me pick a rifle stock

What stock should I pick for a 35 Whelen?

  • Boyd's heritage walnut

    Votes: 4 20.0%

  • Bell & Carlson (specify model in comments)

    Votes: 2 10.0%

  • H-S Precision

    Votes: 4 20.0%

  • Grayboe

    Votes: 3 15.0%

  • Stocky's fiberglass

    Votes: 2 10.0%

  • Other (specify in comments)

    Votes: 5 25.0%
  • Total voters
    20
  • Poll closed .
Okie_Poke

Okie_Poke

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Joined
May 18, 2022
Messages
191
Location
Oklahoma
This is related to my ongoing 35 Whelen project that I've been discussing in another post, but I thought this merited it's own thread. For those not following along over there, I'm converting an old Remington 700 ADL (blind magazine) into a 35 Whelen using a prefit barrel and Rem/Age style barrel nut. The barrel will be a relativley standard sporter of some flavor. The rifle used to wear a Boyd's lightweight thumbhole stock. Ultimately, the new version will get a new stock and be converted to a BDL (hinged floor plate). What stock to get is what I'm thinking on at the moment.

Ultimately, this is probably going to come down to how much I want to spend and how much weight I want to try to save in the stock. I get that, but I would like some feedback on the stocks I'm considering from the vast experience here. I'm not married to any of these, so if you have other suggestions I'm all ears. As you may tell from my options below, I'm generally trying to stay under the price range of the McMillans and Manners. I'm sure they are great, but that's just an awful lot of money for a stock. I'm also not going superlite with this build, though weight is a consideration.

A couple of additional consdierations: (1) The Rem/Age barrel nut. I'm generally assuming most of these will require some minor fitting to free-float the barrel nut, but if you have any specific experience with that on these or other stocks I'm all ears. (2) Stock shape. The Whelen isn't an elephant gun or anything, but it's going to kick about like a 300 win mag. I've heard of some stock designs being better for heavy recoil than others, but frankly the information on the internet seems contradictory on this point. If you have experience with any particular stock type or stock shape being better or worse for stiff recoil, I'm interested in that too.

My initial thought for this rifle was a Boyd's Heritage stock using plain walnut wood and adding fleur de'lis checkering. Price from Boyd's for it setup the way I'm thinking is $381, and I expect it to weigh 2.5 - 2.8 pounds based on Boyd's website. I would pillar and glass bed it myself (something I've done before). The stock would look something like this:

1708395183445.png

Traditional and pretty, though not extravagant. Two main potential drawbacks: weather and weight. This rifle is not a need by any means. It's a build just because I want to. I have more practical rifles. But . . . should I get the chance to chase wapiti in grizzly country (which I may in the next 5 years), I think I would take this rifle along. And as some other folks gently reminded me in my other thread, when chasing elk function matters more than form. I've been going back and forth about wood vs. synthetic for a while, and I'm still teetering and considering options. Here are some of the other stocks I'm considering.

First up, and least expensive, is a Stocky's composite. Pros: appears to be a solid fiberglass composite stock with an aluminum bedding block for about $220. Cons: Not saving any weight since it's listed at 2.85 pounds. So, I might actually be gaining weight going this direction. And like basically all composite stocks, it's less pretty than the walnut. I have no experience with this stock, so if you do (good or bad) I'd like to hear about it.

Next in order of cost is Grayboe's Outlander stock. Redhawk lists it for under $320, and it's supposed to weigh just under 2 pounds (30 ounces). It's a very plain stock, but I'm frankly intrigued by it. In addition to the stock itself, Redhawk lists a package with their BDL bottom metal for under $500, and I'm going to need bottom metal too. If you have any experience with this stock or other Grayboe stocks (or even Redhawk's bottom metal) I'd be interested in your experience.

Two more options are Bell and Carlson's BDL Light Hunter and regular BDL sporter. Both list at $340, though I've seen them cheaper before. The light hunter is supposed to weigh 2.1 pounds and the sporter is supposed to weigh 2.25 pounds. Both have aluminum bedding blocks. As far as I can tell, B&C saved weight on the light hunter by slimming down the forend.

A final option is an H-S Precision sporter. Stocky's lists it for $424. It's supposed to weigh 2.5 pounds. I hear good things about H-S Precision stocks, but they are on the expensive end of what I'm considering at the moment and I don't save much weight over wood. Still, I don't want to cheap out too much on this build either. If they are the best option and worth it, I'll spend the money.
 
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A couple of considerations, if you hunt it hard in bad weather, a wood stock will probably warp a little. If you want it lighter and wood it'll probably warp worse as humidity changes. Doesn't necessarily make for problems, but it could affect consistency in groups. Weight is another one, if you plan on shooting it a lot, don't try to make it too light. The whelen doesn't kick very sharp, but it does kick quite a bit with full house hunting loads. So weight is your friend to a point.

I really like the boyds heritage stock, it looks good. I had one on an 30-06 in pepper laminate, but I'd probably go with a stockys stock for a dedicated hunting rifle. I planned on that route for my whelen, or maybe an mpi, but I already had a nice simple blonde maple stock on my savage, so I just inlet the stock for the heavier barrel and went with it.

If you can do a glass bed job, you can inlet a little and reseal the stock at the barrel nut, it isn't a big deal, just a little Dremel work.
Edit to add: I haven't owned a stockys stock, but have held a few and they are decent for the money.
 
I've been going back and forth about wood vs. synthetic for a while,
Click to expand...

I put a Brown Precision stock on a Rem 700 in 1983. I haven't hunted with a wood stock on a bolt rifle since. It's not just wet weather, wood expands/contracts as temperature, humidity and altitude change even if kept indoors. Where I live, I can zero a wood stocked rifle in August when it's 100 degrees and 80% humidity and it won't have the same POI in December when it's 20 degrees and 20% humidity. I've hunted in western states a few times. Not only do I see the extreme temp and humidity swings, but I live at 900' elevtion. Going to 9000' elevation is a factor too.

I like the McMillan Edge stocks. I've had several over the years, currently 2 rifles in those stocks. They are expensive, but both of mine were bought 2nd hand off other hunting forums classified ad sections. McMillan offers an ADL stock. The money you save by not having to buy BDL bottom metal will greatly offset the more expensive stock.

But I totally agree on the cost. I wouldn't pay full price for one. In fact anymore I simply prefer to choose lighter weight rifles that come from the factory with decent synthetic stocks. My Tikka weighs exactly the same as my other rifles with Edge stocks on them and the complete rifle cost less than a McMillan stock. And they rifles are more accurate.

I'd probably go with the B&C lite hunter of your choices and with your budget. It can take up to 7 months to get a McMillan too.

Consider this

Bell and Carlson: Bell and Carlson Remington 700 ADL Mountain Ti, Sporter Style

Bell and Carlson is a leader in synthetic stock design, technology and manufacturer of the highest quality fiberglass, aramid and graphite gun stocks available.
www.bellandcarlson.com

This is the same stock that Remington used on their Ti Mountain rifle. It is ADL and under 2 lbs. The only downside is that it doesn't have the aluminum chassis. It is lighter, but not as rugged. If dropped, or stepped on it is more likely to break. But the ergonomics are much better. The ones with the aluminum chassis need to be thicker and chunky.
 
That's like asking what tires to buy. No really. Your research is good. I have plastic and I have wood. Those composite, fiberglass, carbon fiber types that are totally unaffected by the environment and don't show scratches is what I'd want for a real project. Not just a barrel change mass produced weapon like I assemble , houses are built. Match what your assembling to the money spent on the stock. Good lord I sound old.
 
Varminterror said:
I picked B&C off of the list, but were I buying a composite stock for hunting, it would be a Manners EH1 or McMillan Game Warden.
Click to expand...

Alright @Varminterror, please humor me a bit. I've spent some time looking at McMillan's stocks in particular, but there are so many options that it gets pretty confusing. I've almost written off trying to choose unless I can either handle them in person or I find a screaming deal on a used one, as suggested by @jmr40. In particular, why the Game Warden over the McMillan Hunter? Please help educate me on the shape differences and what they are doing. I understand the Hunter is narrower up front and doesn't have as vertical of a pistol grip. I can also see the Hunter has a monte carlo cheek piece and the Game Warden doesn't, but I don't know whether that's "good" or "bad" in any particular circumstance. I know a lot of this is personal preference, but I still value the reasons behind other folks' personal preferences. Thank you for your help.

Game Warden
1708450747494.png

McMillan Hunter
1708450696874.png

Also, why B&C over H-S Precision, if you don't mind my asking? I'm not doubting you have a reason, but I'd like to know what it is. Not enough performance difference to justify the cost increase, or something else? Again, I appreciation you sharing your experience.
 
I bought a Factory replacement Remington stock at CDNN and Magazine and hardware on Ebay for 2 recent Remington 700's. Used and take-off stocks are on Ebay as well.
 
jmr40 said:
I put a Brown Precision stock on a Rem 700 in 1983. I haven't hunted with a wood stock on a bolt rifle since. It's not just wet weather, wood expands/contracts as temperature, humidity and altitude change even if kept indoors. Where I live, I can zero a wood stocked rifle in August when it's 100 degrees and 80% humidity and it won't have the same POI in December when it's 20 degrees and 20% humidity. I've hunted in western states a few times. Not only do I see the extreme temp and humidity swings, but I live at 900' elevtion. Going to 9000' elevation is a factor too.

I like the McMillan Edge stocks. I've had several over the years, currently 2 rifles in those stocks. They are expensive, but both of mine were bought 2nd hand off other hunting forums classified ad sections. McMillan offers an ADL stock. The money you save by not having to buy BDL bottom metal will greatly offset the more expensive stock.

But I totally agree on the cost. I wouldn't pay full price for one. In fact anymore I simply prefer to choose lighter weight rifles that come from the factory with decent synthetic stocks. My Tikka weighs exactly the same as my other rifles with Edge stocks on them and the complete rifle cost less than a McMillan stock. And they rifles are more accurate.

I'd probably go with the B&C lite hunter of your choices and with your budget. It can take up to 7 months to get a McMillan too.

Consider this

Bell and Carlson: Bell and Carlson Remington 700 ADL Mountain Ti, Sporter Style

Bell and Carlson is a leader in synthetic stock design, technology and manufacturer of the highest quality fiberglass, aramid and graphite gun stocks available.
www.bellandcarlson.com

This is the same stock that Remington used on their Ti Mountain rifle. It is ADL and under 2 lbs. The only downside is that it doesn't have the aluminum chassis. It is lighter, but not as rugged. If dropped, or stepped on it is more likely to break. But the ergonomics are much better. The ones with the aluminum chassis need to be thicker and chunky.
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat re: elevation and temp swings, JMR. I live at 1200 feet and often sight in rifles in vastly different temperatures and humidity than those in which I hunt out west. It's definitely a consideration.

Were the McMillan Edge stocks you had the Hunters Edge Sporters (pictured below), or did you get their Edge fill in a different shape?

1708451830445.png

I had forgotten about the B&C Mountain having a SKU for a magnum sporter contour and not just the pencil mountain barrel. I think I overlooked that before thinking I'd have to remove too much material in the barrel channel to get my new (non-pencil) barrel and barrel nut to fit. Thanks for the reminder.
 
Okie_Poke said:
Alright @Varminterror, please humor me a bit. I've spent some time looking at McMillan's stocks in particular, but there are so many options that it gets pretty confusing. I've almost written off trying to choose unless I can either handle them in person or I find a screaming deal on a used one, as suggested by @jmr40. In particular, why the Game Warden over the McMillan Hunter? Please help educate me on the shape differences and what they are doing. I understand the Hunter is narrower up front and doesn't have as vertical of a pistol grip. I can also see the Hunter has a monte carlo cheek piece and the Game Warden doesn't, but I don't know whether that's "good" or "bad" in any particular circumstance. I know a lot of this is personal preference, but I still value the reasons behind other folks' personal preferences. Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

You basically nailed the differences between the Game Warden and the Hunter. I personally like the wider belly on the Game Warden (it's not actually very wide, as forends go, but it's more substantial and rests better on field supports). I also personally prefer more vertical pistol grips to put my wrist in a more relaxed and natural position, offering better trigger reach and better trigger control (less dependence upon perfect alignment of the hand on the neck every shot). I also do NOT typically care for roll over type Monte Carlo stocks - the extra cheek cast offset means my head has to tilt more to get into the scope, which is unnatural, and it promotes seating the rifle farther outside on the shoulder, which means less support in recoil. I also expect, in general, to need cheek rise in my stocks, and stacking these on top of a roll over monte carlo is more challenging than mounting to a straight comb.

Okie_Poke said:
Also, why B&C over H-S Precision, if you don't mind my asking? I'm not doubting you have a reason, but I'd like to know what it is. Not enough performance difference to justify the cost increase, or something else? Again, I appreciation you sharing your experience.
Click to expand...

The HS Stocks are good, so are the B&C's. I like the B&C guys a lot, they're local to Kansas, so I figure that's better than flipping a coin.
 
Okie_Poke said:
This is related to my ongoing 35 Whelen project that I've been discussing in another post, but I thought this merited it's own thread. For those not following along over there, I'm converting an old Remington 700 ADL (blind magazine) into a 35 Whelen using a prefit barrel and Rem/Age style barrel nut. The barrel will be a relativley standard sporter of some flavor. The rifle used to wear a Boyd's lightweight thumbhole stock. Ultimately, the new version will get a new stock and be converted to a BDL (hinged floor plate). What stock to get is what I'm thinking on at the moment.

Ultimately, this is probably going to come down to how much I want to spend and how much weight I want to try to save in the stock. I get that, but I would like some feedback on the stocks I'm considering from the vast experience here. I'm not married to any of these, so if you have other suggestions I'm all ears. As you may tell from my options below, I'm generally trying to stay under the price range of the McMillans and Manners. I'm sure they are great, but that's just an awful lot of money for a stock. I'm also not going superlite with this build, though weight is a consideration.

A couple of additional consdierations: (1) The Rem/Age barrel nut. I'm generally assuming most of these will require some minor fitting to free-float the barrel nut, but if you have any specific experience with that on these or other stocks I'm all ears. (2) Stock shape. The Whelen isn't an elephant gun or anything, but it's going to kick about like a 300 win mag. I've heard of some stock designs being better for heavy recoil than others, but frankly the information on the internet seems contradictory on this point. If you have experience with any particular stock type or stock shape being better or worse for stiff recoil, I'm interested in that too.

My initial thought for this rifle was a Boyd's Heritage stock using plain walnut wood and adding fleur de'lis checkering. Price from Boyd's for it setup the way I'm thinking is $381, and I expect it to weigh 2.5 - 2.8 pounds based on Boyd's website. I would pillar and glass bed it myself (something I've done before). The stock would look something like this:

View attachment 1195413

Traditional and pretty, though not extravagant. Two main potential drawbacks: weather and weight. This rifle is not a need by any means. It's a build just because I want to. I have more practical rifles. But . . . should I get the chance to chase wapiti in grizzly country (which I may in the next 5 years), I think I would take this rifle along. And as some other folks gently reminded me in my other thread, when chasing elk function matters more than form. I've been going back and forth about wood vs. synthetic for a while, and I'm still teetering and considering options. Here are some of the other stocks I'm considering.

First up, and least expensive, is a Stocky's composite. Pros: appears to be a solid fiberglass composite stock with an aluminum bedding block for about $220. Cons: Not saving any weight since it's listed at 2.85 pounds. So, I might actually be gaining weight going this direction. And like basically all composite stocks, it's less pretty than the walnut. I have no experience with this stock, so if you do (good or bad) I'd like to hear about it.

Next in order of cost is Grayboe's Outlander stock. Redhawk lists it for under $320, and it's supposed to weigh just under 2 pounds (30 ounces). It's a very plain stock, but I'm frankly intrigued by it. In addition to the stock itself, Redhawk lists a package with their BDL bottom metal for under $500, and I'm going to need bottom metal too. If you have any experience with this stock or other Grayboe stocks (or even Redhawk's bottom metal) I'd be interested in your experience.

Two more options are Bell and Carlson's BDL Light Hunter and regular BDL sporter. Both list at $340, though I've seen them cheaper before. The light hunter is supposed to weigh 2.1 pounds and the sporter is supposed to weigh 2.25 pounds. Both have aluminum bedding blocks. As far as I can tell, B&C saved weight on the light hunter by slimming down the forend.

A final option is an H-S Precision sporter. Stocky's lists it for $424. It's supposed to weigh 2.5 pounds. I hear good things about H-S Precision stocks, but they are on the expensive end of what I'm considering at the moment and I don't save much weight over wood. Still, I don't want to cheap out too much on this build either. If they are the best option and worth it, I'll spend the money.
Click to expand...
I like H-S Preciaion stocks. I'm partial to their classic Pound'r. That's what I used when I put together this very LW FN Supreme 30-06. It has a light weight aluminum bottom metal set I had sitting around.

heW4NlD.jpg

zRG2aT8.jpg

AFOmlcv.jpg
 
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Varminterror said:
I also expect, in general, to need cheek rise in my stocks, and stacking these on top of a roll over monte carlo is more
Click to expand...

This is a useful point as well. I don't have a ton of experience with different stock shapes. My target rifle is adjustable, so it doesn't really count. Everything else I have except for the Boyd's thumbhole is a straight sporter style stock. I definitely prefer adding some type of cheek piece or pad to those to help with eye-scope alignment, even when using scopes with 40 or 44 mm objectives and low rings.
 
Last edited:
Varminterror said:
I personally like the wider belly on the Game Warden (it's not actually very wide, as forends go, but it's more substantial and rests better on field supports). I also personally prefer more vertical pistol grips to put my wrist in a more relaxed and natural position, offering better trigger reach and better trigger control (less dependence upon perfect alignment of the hand on the neck every shot).
Click to expand...

Okay, one more shape question for you if you don't mind. Game Warden vs. Game Warden 2.0-TG vs. Game Warden LR-TG. What's your decision tree look like between those stock shapes? Is having a "negative comb" like the 2.0 and LR a benefit? Does the raised comb on the 2.0 give you the same trouble as a monte carlo or is it better because it's not rolled over? I'm not thinking I would want something like that for this particular build because it's not going to wear a super-large, long-range optic. But I still don't know what I don't know.

Game Warden
1708468832436.png

Game Warden 2.0-TG
1708468855668.png

Game Warden LR-TG
1708468880698.png

I'm happy to have anyone weigh in here. All these shapes and what the manufacturers are trying to accomplish with each confuse me.
 
@Okie_Poke - the "TG" part of the Game Warden 2.0 TG is "tall grip," which I guess some guys wanted? The LR part means it has a flatter toe angle, meant to better ride a rear bag with less muzzle rise - that part I can dig. The 2.0 vs. original GW is the finger stop, a bit more beef in the rear of the grip, and the raised comb (and negative comb angle).

Personally, I own the original Game Warden, but if I were buying, with these options and price notwithstanding, I'd but the GW LR. I don't need the TG option, and I'd rather have the flatter toe angle to ride bags.
 
Voted b & c. I have a bdl sporter on a rem 700 270 and it feels almost indestructible in the woods. The speckled paint pattern covers any hint of a scuff or scratch if you care about that kinda thing on a hunting rifle.
 
If I was going away from the original factory stock I would vote for the McMillan fiberglass stock because I am familiar with them, but I actually prefer the original factory wood stocks. After many years of handling rifles I shy away from large cheek pieces like the Boyd's Heritage, McMillan Hunter or the Weatherby style because I noticed I can shoot and handle a rifle better with a rounded side to the cheek and a raised comb. I am not recoil shy so there is nothing a cheekpiece can do for me but get in the way. The McMillan Game Warden is a good looking stock if you like the style.
 
Last edited:
sage5907 said:
If I was going away from the original factory stock I would vote for the McMillan fiberglass stock because I am familiar with them, but I actually prefer the original factory wood stocks. After many years of handling rifles I shy away from large cheek pieces like the Boyd's Heritage, McMillan Hunter or the Weatherby style because I noticed I can shoot and handle a rifle better with a rounded side to the cheek and a raised comb. I am not recoil shy so there is nothing a cheekpiece can do for me but get in the way. The McMillan Game Warden is a good looking stock if you like the style.
Click to expand...

The original factory stock for this particular rifle was a cheap piece of black plastic---it started life as a Wal-Mart special R700 ADL. The current stock is a Boyd's laminate thumbhole. I could continue to use it, but (i) I do want to convert to BDL bottom metal (my plastic trigger guard is broken and needs replaced anyway), and (ii) my tastes have changes such that I do not really care for the look of a thumbhole stock anymore. Hence, my initial inclination to buy a Boyd's stock, but in walnut instead of laminate this time. My reason for gravitating toward the prairie hunter/heritage instead of the classic/platinum is because for most of my straight sporter stocks I end up adding a cheek riser or pad, or wishing I had, even when using relatively modest scopes (e.g. VX 3HD 3.5-10x40).

I wish a McMillan was in the budget for this build, but it's probably not. I was interrogating Varminterror about them to try and learn something about stock shapes and because maybe someday they will be in the budget for a build. Or maybe I'll wait long enough completing this build that they come into the budget. In the same vein, which McMillan shape do you prefer? This rifle is most likely to be shot from a standing, kneeling, or seated position, and not prone (though it could be shot from prone). Thoughts on McMillan's Remington Sporter vs the Game Warden/Game Scout shape? The drop at comb is slightly more for the sporter, but it interestingly has a negative comb and is actually slightly higher at the heel. The original Game Warden/Game Scout are flat. I'll admit that shape is growing on me, I'm just now sure if I really want a vertical pistol grip on a hunting rifle or not.

Edit to add image of McMillan Remington Sporter:

1708550978653.png
 
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Varminterror said:
Except offer a consistent reference for head position behind the glass.
Click to expand...
I might buy that argument for a a target shooter but even then your head position changes somewhat from standing, to sitting, to prone. I am a hunter and most of my shooting is done from a sitting position and even then I may be twisting my torso to follow a moving animal. As a hunter the only thing I am concerned about is having a full clear scope picture when the gun goes off, and eye relief is instinctively established by knowing what the correct scope picture looks like. Carlos Hathcock described the scope picture as having no shadow. I think every experienced shooter instinctively establishes eye relief no matter what kind of cheek rest is used.
 
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Varminterror said:
A couple hundred years of marksmanship development disagrees with this thought.
Click to expand...
You're saying that the human brain is not smart enough to realize that their face is too close or too far from the scope? It's like saying the human brain is not smart enough to finish pulling the trigger when the scope picture is right.
 
Consider length of pull.
Comb in relation to the eye and the type of sights. Scoped rifles generally have higher combs.
Drop.
Wrist/grip position must fit shooter comfortably.
 
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