Help on stuck screw!

[45R]

Ruger MKII 512GCL Help
I just purchased by MKII from my FFL dealer. The Ruger is drilled and tapped for a mount.

Problem is someone at Ruger over tightened the first screw and its very hard to get out. The other two came out with no problem. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the screw out?

The screws are very soft and they bend easy..... I dont want to add any more pressure and strip out the screw. Its in far enough were I can see the treads.

Any suggestions. So far I've left a drop of oil on it hoping that it will penetrate enough to lossen the screw but it hasnt budged. Any help would be really appreciated!!


TIA

45R

 

[HSMITH]

45, tap it with a hammer, preferably with the drive tool used as a punch, hold it in the drive of the screw and tap it DEAD SQUARE to the threads, a little harder each time until it loosens. It will loosen. A tad bit of heat with the tip of a soldering iron in the drive of the screw until the heat starts to transfer to the gun can also work wonders. Let it cool FULLY and then try it.

If you don't have a can of Kano Kroil around the house get one, it works where everything else will fail. PB Blaster is the only other penetrating oil worth the money.......

 

[P95Carry]

Another small addition ... don't be totally pre-occupied with counter clock' rotation .... add a little clockwise (tightening) ..... sometimes, a ''too-and-fro'' either side of the restricted problem can ease the final extraction.

 

[45R]

I think I am going to need to find some new screw drivers. The ones that I have are made of plastic by stanley. I'm having a hard time finding a flathead that is small enough to take the screw out. The other two came out pretty easy.

I'll look for the penetrating oil tomorrow. As for tightening and and loosening the screw will not budge at all The gun is brand spanking new. I'll post an update in a few days. Oil first let set, find screwdriver that I can hit with a hammer, worst comes to worst. Gunsmith will have to drill it out.

I want to get a red dot for the .22 but its not immediate.

 

[Nero Steptoe]

Get some gunsmith screwdrivers.

 

[45R]

Update-
I called Ruger today they are going to take care of the screw for me at no charge and they are covering shipping in both directions.

If a smith works on it they are going to void the warranty so its getting shipped back Fed-EX


Thanks for all the help. I tried using the oil but it wouldnt budge.

 

[Ledbetter]

You made the right choice. However, a good set of screwdrivers can be had for less than $30 and is indispensable if you want to tinker on your guns without leaving any marks.

 

[45R]

I'm just a little miffed that some gorilla at Ruger cranked that screw down so tight it will take an act of superior mechanical skills to get that thing out.

At least it gave me a excuse to buy more tools.


I need a vise, a set of punches and a set of really good screw drivers.

 

[Standing Wolf]

The good folks at http://www.brownells.com tend to have pretty good tools, and often tools in good-better-best categories.

 

[P12]

Get a Snap-on or Blue Point impact screw driver. It is a all metal driver that will tighten or loosen screws, bolt or nuts when striking the butt with a hammer. A collar on the end when twisted determines the direction of rotation. When struck it will put force on the screw and rotate about 10 degrees. Most are 3/8 drive. Mine has a two sockets with a spring retainers in it. A 1/4 bit will fit in one and a 5/16 bit in the other socket. Or you can put any 3/8 square drive attachment on it. You will need to find some 1/4 bits for guns. Guns screws are not the same slots as hardware or mechanical fasteners.

It is a very good tool to have around. A friend of mine recently used it to extract some stuck hardware screws from an old oak dresser. The screw was stuck to the drawer pull flange. She got the screws out without any damage to the screw head.

 

[Jim K]

General advice on removing stubborn screws.

Most screw heads are stripped not because of rotational pressure but because the screwdriver slips out of the notch. This happens because the normal hand is not strong enough to hold the screwdriver into the notch and turn it at the same time.

The answer, if a drill press can be had, is to use the power driver tips that can be found in any hardware store and grind to size. Cut the blade part as short as you can and still retain sides. Then chuck the driver into the drill press, place the work on the table firmly clamped or held in the vise. Insert the driver into the screw slot by moving the table, work and vise and then turning the chuck until the driver blade lines up with the screw slot. Lock the table so it can't move. Then use the drill press handle to seat the driver firmly in the slot. Lock the press down or hold it down by the handle if there is no lock.

Wiggle the chuck back and forth. Normally, hand pressure is enough to break the screw loose, but if necessary, insert a rod or the chuck handle into one of the holes in the chuck and use it as a lever.

Jim

 

[4 eyed six shooter]

Jims method works almost every time. I have found that "Kroil" is a great penetrating oil and really helps on the tough to remove screws. Everyone should have a can handy. You can get it from Brownells as well as other sources.

 

[Jim K]

Use of the drill press is also a good way to remove frozen nipples on muzzle loaders or percussion revolvers. Use a "T" handle wrench and drive out the cross piece. Then chuck the cylindrical part in the drill press, wrench end down, and use as described above for screws.

Not guaranteed, but works almost every time and doesn't mess up anything from the wrench slipping.

Jim

 

[P95Carry]

Wife says I've always had a screw loose ... This thread tho has certainly given some good ideas for dealing with the tight ones!!