Stuck Strain Screw

[LubeckTech]

I have a S&W 625 which I bought used. At some time someone did an action job on it and shortened the strain screw. I would like to replaced the strain screw so that I can make the DA trigger and hammer strike heavier to attain more consistant ignition with CCI primers (I know Frederal and Winchester are softer). The screw won't budge. I will probably wind up have a gunsmith remove it but before I do am willing to have a try at it. So far the screw slot is not buggered and I have not tried heating. If I were to heat it what is the best way to do it and how hot is too hot? Could I damage the frame by getting it too hot? Any suggestions as to how to loosen it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Publius1688]

go to your local auto parts big box store and get yourself an impact wrench set. Strip the pistol to the frame, vice it padded with leather, and go to town. The impact wrench will wedge it out, if it can be wedged. My bet---the previous owner got a little over zealous with the loctite. I'd be real hesitant to go after my S&W with an open flame.

 

[Sir Aardvark]

If it is indeed Loctite that is buggering up the works, then you could try touching the tip of a red-hot soldering iron to the screw. The heat will transfer to the screw, and if luck prevails, it will be enough to loosen up the Loctite.
(You can try plugging the soldering iron into a very long extension cord to get it really, really hot - but be careful!).


From Loctite's FAQ:

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

I'm sure you tried the "soak it in WD40" trick first?...

 

[LubeckTech]

Thanks for the suggestions,

I tried heating a soldering iron tip to red hot with a torch and using it to transfer heat which didn't help so the next step would be impact drivers after soaking it in a penitrating lubricant. SeaFoam sells a product called Deep Creep that works (and smells) better than WD-40 which can be found at auto parts stores.
I found a compromise which if works out well will make me happy for the moment. I made a shim to go between the spring and the strain screw. I hammered a Glazier Point (small pieces of metal that I think are used in picture framing or maybe dry walling) out flat and to the thickness I desired. This took the DA trigger from about 7.5lbs to about 9 lbs which works well on my other S&W revolvers. The hammering process made the shim a little rough which I think will help it stay in place. It was wide enough that it digs in slightly to the wood of the S&W combat grips I use on this gun so I am relatively sure it will stay in place. If not back to the drawing board.

 

[Publius1688]

To clarify my previous hesitancy with (excessive) heat on that particular screw: you don't want to accidentally anneal any of the surrounding metal. I've heard tell of smiths doing this, who knows how likely it is. The impact wrench is the way to go if heat has failed.

 

[rcmodel]

It wouldn't hurt anything if you did anneal the grip frame except ruin the bluing. It is not a highly stressed part like the frame surrounding the barrel and cylinder.

Anyway, it doesn't take nearly that much heat to smoke Lock-Tight out so it will come apart.

I would not ever suggest an impact driver be used on a S&W.
I have seen them break screwdriver bits that small, and then you have a huge scratch on the S&W where it broke, slipped, and whacked the frame.

Clamp the frame in a drill press vice.
Use a proper size screwdriver bit & small hammer and give the screw a couple of whacks.

Now, chuck a screwdriver bit in the drill press chuck.

Use the drill press to keep downward pressure on the screwdriver, and turn the chuck by hand to take the screw out.

rc

 

[xtriggerman]

Lots of good advise here so far. My take on your SS gun is do not over look the importance of a driver tip ground to precisely match the screw slot. Gunsmith drivers are square ground on every thing. Personaly, I would anchor the frame in a vise chocked up on both side with steel plates, heat the frame slightly untill PB-Blaster starts to smoke and boil a bitaround the screw, hit the screw with a bit more PB and try it by hand. If that fails to break it loose, modify your hold in the vise by putting a pair of pins behind the frame to either side of the screw where it comes through the frame. these pins would be set to straddle the top of the vise jaws with the frame back sitting on top of them. With this set up the frame will not move down into the jaws when you whack a impact driver on the screw. Again, heat as before w/ loosener and give it a medium hit with a big hammer. If that dont work, its time to mill and drill it out. Just MHO!