Help with 1100

nugi

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Joined
Feb 23, 2021
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104
I’ve had this 1100 for over a decade but probably haven’t shot it in the almost the same amount of time. Last I used it it worked great. Then it sat for some time in a gun safe. Fast forward to this past year I take it out to shoot clays and 3 times out of 4 it won’t cycle the next round. A round is ejected from the tube into the chamber but I have to press the cylinder release again.

I replaced the o-ring and cleaned it - nothing. Then it sat for a while and I just got it out and cleaned/lubed it again. I got four or five good cycles in a row and then it started doing the same thing again. What do you think is the issue here?? I am at a loss as to what to do next

Picture of the piston - maybe it’s something simple
5B8C7F38-2557-47C0-843E-82535AC4BC16.jpeg
 
The 1100 requires the round coming from the magazine hit the release with enough energy to trip it and let the lifter operate. Maybe your magazine spring is weak or the follower is gunked up. If the next round is not feeding from the magazine at all the left hand shell stop may be stuck/worn/ out of place.
 
Take a paper clip and probe the gas holes in the barrel. They should be open. IIRC a ¹/16 drill bit should pass through WITH YOUR FINGERS...not on a drill.
Make sure the outside of the mag tube isn't tacky. WD40 is notorious for gumming up 1100s. Don't use it.
Make sure your rings are on the tube in the proper order..there's a sticker on the tube.
It is quite possible your gas ports are restricted.
I don't want to sound elementary but the ports are located in the sleeve part under the barrel that slides over the magazine tube.
 
I use a pipe cleaner in the barrel gas holes first. Then make sure your gas valve is not on backwards. That has happened to me before I hate to admit. The oring is size 21 viton easily acquired at the hardware store if you happen to need another. Make sure yours is the correct size. Good luck!


1100 oring 21.JPG
 
Looks nice and clean. Have you cleaned the action spring and tube in the buttstock? I do NOT think you need to replace any springs. My 1963 edition with over 115,000 rounds thru it has all original springs and runs flawlessly.

No! I will check that

What ammo are we talking about here

Many various target loads
 
SOme old discussion about 1100 shotguns. I have the manual but it too large to load here.
 

Attachments

  • Rem1100Notes.pdf
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Replace your magazine spring. If when the shell ejects it just plops next you, replace at least the extractor spring. I always replace the extractor plunger and spring together. I also recommend putting in a Volquartson extractor. If it is kicking a shell out of the mag, but not closing, the carrier latch spring may need replacing as well as the mag spring. As AF recommends, clear the gas ports with a 1/16" drill bit held in your hand. Also, check how many gas ports there are. Magnums have one, standard 1100s have two. If you have a Magnum barrel, you will not be able to reliably eject some lighter loads, mostly 7/8 and 3/4 oz.
 
I’ve had this 1100 for over a decade but probably haven’t shot it in the almost the same amount of time. Last I used it it worked great. Then it sat for some time in a gun safe. Fast forward to this past year I take it out to shoot clays and 3 times out of 4 it won’t cycle the next round. A round is ejected from the tube into the chamber but I have to press the cylinder release again.

I replaced the o-ring and cleaned it - nothing. Then it sat for a while and I just got it out and cleaned/lubed it again. I got four or five good cycles in a row and then it started doing the same thing again. What do you think is the issue here?? I am at a loss as to what to do next

Picture of the piston - maybe it’s something simple
View attachment 1125292

If I am understanding you right, you shoot, the shell you just shot will eject just fine. The next round will go onto the carrier but it will not lift them up and the action will not close?

If I am getting this right like @Kp321 said it does not sound like it has enough "oomph" to trip and make the guns action close up, lifting the round and all that jazz. It could be like he suggested a weak mag spring. The tube could also just need a little cleaning, there could also be something with all the little parts around the carrier. Check out the diagram and you will see all the parts around the 20 number range all relate to that carrier. If what I think is happening it could be something in there is just not quite right, could be just gook or something broken....but for some reason you need to hit the button, something the parts in the 20 range on this page have everything to do with.

If you start fiddling around in there be careful of your fingers, that bolt closing on your finger will hurt. I like a wooden dowel when trying to figure out why something is not working and pushing on buttons that should make something do something.

Good luck, they are good little guns, I bet if it needs a part it is not going to be much.

Idiot me, helps if you include the link.

https://www.gunpartscorp.com/category/shotguns-rem/1100/parts-list-rem1100
 
As Remington 1911 suggests about the whole carrier system, I have had to "tweak" the carrier which had gotten a little bent out of shape, cured the problem.
 
Does your forearm support still look like this?

C801B358-4616-4F69-95FC-AE0E9F78A057.jpeg

When they break it’s generally in this area.

8771229D-C63E-4934-8C51-33386E432613.jpeg
 
I would start with a full cleaning of the entire action, including pulling out the trigger assembly and scrubbing the tar out of it. Then go through and clean the gas ports, and verify nothing is broken.

The 1100 and 11-87 models will take a fair amount of abuse prior to breaking and sometimes just need a good cleaning and lube job. I was a boy scout summer camp counselor for 3 years and we put A BUNCH of shells downrange with only a good cleaning at the end of the season and periodic field stripping and cleaning.
 
Got some time this morning to work through this advice:

Take a paper clip and probe the gas holes in the barrel. They should be open. IIRC a ¹/16 drill bit should pass through WITH YOUR FINGERS

Thank you! I don't mind elementary, I had trouble finding the ports. 1/16" drill bit passes through just fine.

gas valve is not on backwards

I've double checked the schematic, it is on correctly.

Does your forearm support still look like this?

I'm not sure, my sliding piece looks very different from yours unnamed.jpeg

I would start with a full cleaning of the entire action, including pulling out the trigger assembly and scrubbing the tar out of it. Then go through and clean the gas ports, and verify nothing is broken.

Dropping the trigger assembly and scrubbing it down was the last thing I tried. May or may not have done anything, I had 5 good rounds in a row which is abnormal and then it went back to normal, as in, not cycling most of the time

The oring is size 21 viton easily acquired at the hardware store if you happen to need another. Make sure yours is the correct size. Good luck!

O-ring was replaced in the last year

Have you cleaned the action spring and tube in the buttstock?

No, I'm watching a video now trying to figure out how to disassemble it that far in. I did purchase a replacement action spring it was cheap
 
I agree.

When they fail, they look more like yours but without the (rubber) pad.

View attachment 1127277

What is that piece called? I'd like to search for info on it. The shiny rectangular piece you were referring to as the rubber pad (I think) is a thick piece of metal that is pinned onto the arch of the slider. It doesn't appear broken but it is shiny with sharp edges like it's been wearing against something
 
Cleaned everything up again and replaced the action spring and tried it out. No improvement.

Mag spring change next?
 
If a good cleaning doesn't fix it, a bent carrier latch is the next most likely candidate. I am a retired gunsmith who never did join the spring changers guild.

Is the carrier latch the same thing as the hinge of the shell lifter or where is it?
 
Ok, new thing…
4F383DF0-451A-4A88-8EFC-10D158B076E0.jpeg

It was attached when I started working on it this morning and just popped out now. Is this a secondary issue from me poking around the gun or could this have been causing the original cycling issue?
 
Ok, new thing…
View attachment 1127323

It was attached when I started working on it this morning and just popped out now. Is this a secondary issue from me poking around the gun or could this have been causing the original cycling issue?
That is a shell stop. It needs to be "staked" back in, can be done with a punch, but best with the proper staking tool.
 
Shell latch does NOT have to be staked, The trigger group pin and the trigger group keep it in the correct position.
You have an early version of the fore arm support. Nothing wrong with it. How the hell did this get sidetracked onto a broken fore end support ?
There is something amiss with the trigger group. Can't tell what from here.
 
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