Help with cleaning jag and wet powder!

I've had no problems with loose Pyrodex and factory nipples.
Me either, except when it’s cold. Under 20 degrees or so it would sometimes gave me hang fire or failure to fire. Being from Mississippi you may not be familiar with cold but it’s a real thing… 😎
 
Me either, except when it’s cold. Under 20 degrees or so it would sometimes gave me hang fire or failure to fire. Being from Mississippi you may not be familiar with cold but it’s a real thing… 😎

Oh I know it's a real thing. We even get down into the teens at night some years but you're not going to catch me out in it. I know 50-60 degree hunting weather is just around the corner.:cool:
 
I've had no problems with loose Pyrodex and factory nipples.
I was using Pyrodex RS with standard factory nipple, I have to keep priming the breech with approximately 5 grains of it to reliably ignite the charge each time. I have place an order for Red Hot nipples and Knight Hot shot nipples. Also it was around 59 degrees around noon yesterday but the day before the guns can shoot without priming the breech and it was a bit warmer around 68-69 degrees not sure if temps affect ignition temps? Can’t wait to experiment with it. The pyrodex are reportedly harder to ignite vs goex. We shall see if the ordered nipples will ignite the substitute more reliably.
 
Factory nipplles work just fine, make sure you get caps that fit. There are different size nipples for musket caps and #11 caps. #11 caps won't seat or even go down on a musket nipple.
Fairly certain it’s not a musket cap on the rifles, I used a #11 nipple wrench to remove them.
 
I was using Pyrodex RS with standard factory nipple, I have to keep priming the breech with approximately 5 grains of it to reliably ignite the charge each time. I have place an order for Red Hot nipples and Knight Hot shot nipples. Also it was around 59 degrees around noon yesterday but the day before the guns can shoot without priming the breech and it was a bit warmer around 68-69 degrees not sure if temps affect ignition temps? Can’t wait to experiment with it. The pyrodex are reportedly harder to ignite vs goex. We shall see if the ordered nipples will ignite the substitute more reliably.

If you're using loose Pyrodex you're still doing something wrong if you have to use a bp starter charge. The only thing I've had a problem with was a 63 Sharps. A Sharps has two turns in a long firing channel. I was getting hang fires with it but it did always fire. I used nothing but Pyrodex for years and any ignition problems I had with side locks or revolvers was cap related.
 
Me either, except when it’s cold. Under 20 degrees or so it would sometimes gave me hang fire or failure to fire. Being from Mississippi you may not be familiar with cold but it’s a real thing… 😎
Single digit. Thompson Center Hawkins. Lee real and pyrodex and never thought about it. Ignorance is bliss
 
I was using Pyrodex RS with standard factory nipple, I have to keep priming the breech with approximately 5 grains of it to reliably ignite the charge each time. I have place an order for Red Hot nipples and Knight Hot shot nipples. Also it was around 59 degrees around noon yesterday but the day before the guns can shoot without priming the breech and it was a bit warmer around 68-69 degrees not sure if temps affect ignition temps? Can’t wait to experiment with it. The pyrodex are reportedly harder to ignite vs goex. We shall see if the ordered nipples will ignite the substitute more reliably.
I’m thinking about temps in the single digits and teens. High country in November/December.
 
Yes. chuck it in the drill press and take a file and steel wool to it, until you get the perfect size. No drill press? Put the hand drill in a vise, with the jag chucked in it, and do that same thing. No vise? Can't help! :) The perfect size: whatever lets the jag and patched go down a fouled bore easily.
Simply hold the drill with one hand and the file with the other. Holding the base of the drill against a solid surface makes it easier to hold steady.
 
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Update, shot at my pal's place again last weekend, the nipples work, did not need no priming in the nipple, bought some real blackpowder from lgs, used Pyrodex however up till the 9th or 10th shot, "POP!" I pulled the ball and removed the old powder and dampen a cleaning patch with 91% alcohol to clean all the gunk out an removed the cleanout screw to check to see if there was any blockage in the patent breech's flash channel it was good to go, tried shooting again and "POP!" Got frustrated and switched to Schuetzen real blackpowder, BANG it went. and it went bang the whole entire time and technically got it sight in, all those time from the first shot to the last shot used 91% alcohol to swab after each shot since i was wanting to make every shot consistent. Gave pyrodex to my friend and going to stick with real blackpowder with the rifles from now on, I suspect real blackpowder should work with the standard factory nipples as well. I read that Pyrodex P gave more consistent BANGS than Pyrodex RS due to the smaller granules that can get inside the patent breech, I might pick up a pound and see if it works better with standard factory nipples or not. Also the patches used were lubed with Track of The Wolf's mink oil. No more peanut oil for sure! Or at least in its pure form, might mix it with bee's wax in the future to make a consistent paste similar to mink oil.
 
Update on the CVA squirrel rifle: So today I went with the grease gun and zerk fitting. I tightened the 6x1mm zerk onto the drum as I possibly can, got the grease gun ready and threaded down as tightly as i can. On the first pump there was no resistance, on the 2nd pump there was a pretty strong resistance. And I as tried to pump more the grease was coming out from the nipple threads and i cleaned realize that as I pump more, more and more just came out from the threads. So I stopped and clean and wiped everything and investigated. The zerk was loose and I tightened it down, and it did the same thing again…gave it a few more tries and the same thing happened…🤬🤬🤬 So did I do something wrong here? Also when I took the zerk off, i noticed the grease “springing” back out of the drum…you can see the red lithium grease. Okay, anyone with suggestions or ideas on how to remove the stuck jag? Before I throw in the towel and give it to a gunsmith? I read that someone suggested pouring down alcohol down the nipple and set it aflame that way it can burn the patch and undo the jam but idk…
 

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Wait, now a jag is stuck in the bore? I thought you fired the gun successfully a while back.

BTW, that looks like the same squirrel gun I worked on and made a horn nose for; except the one I did was a left handed gun.
 
I read that someone suggested pouring down alcohol down the nipple and set it aflame that way it can burn the patch and undo the jam but idk…
Who ever wrote that should be hoss whipped and have their fingers cut off so they can never write/type again. You are not really working on that with the barrel in the stock...are you? Send the barrel to Jack.
 
Wait, now a jag is stuck in the bore? I thought you fired the gun successfully a while back.

BTW, that looks like the same squirrel gun I worked on and made a horn nose for; except the one I did was a left handed gun.
No I don’t recall saying that. It failed with 10 grains of black powder and it actually carbonize in the drum area so I stopped and plus it didn’t work for me. So yesterday I pour in some hot water in there to remove the carbonizations in the drum and tried the zerk and grease method to no avail due to the grease leaking via the threads. And I can’t get the clean out screw out of the drum either…
 
Who ever wrote that should be hoss whipped and have their fingers cut off so they can never write/type again. You are not really working on that with the barrel in the stock...are you? Send the barrel to Jack.
Damn! I’m glad it wasn’t me!
 
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