Help with first 1911, 9mm

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ravot

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Hi,
I was looking to buy a 1911 9mm. I'd like this for security purposes at home and mostly gun range shooting. My budget is about 600 to 700. anything cheaper would be nice too. This is my first pistol and first 1911.

On another forum someone was selling a NIB Taurus PT1911 stainless steel 9mm. he was asking 600 shipped to a FFL. I've read a few reviews, saw about 3 or 4 youtube video reviews. one video was negative, pretty negative. the others were fairly well, to pretty damn good. i was almost convinced on buying BUT people keep saying that the price might be too much....is it too much? just right? One of the things i was liking was all the mods it has. The skeleton trigger, hammer, full rod, extended beavertail, flared/lowered ejector. My local gun shop had this in stock, held it and it felt great, they wanted 659 i think plus tax.

Can you also link to stores online where i can purchase? I know people say to search on buds and gunbroker but normally they're out of stock on the best stuff :)


Also, this weekend there's going to be a local gun show. I can wait but i've been waiting and reading a long time so i'm eager just to drop money on anything.

What can i look for that will be a good price. All of this is still new to me.

I saw on another thread that a RIA 1911 can go for about 400/450 for a stock version. is it worth getting something like that, and then doing the upgrades myself? If i even can?
Sorry for the long post,

so:
1. Good 1911 9mm guns?
2. Links/suggestions?
3. Possible buy for a PT1911 NIB for 600 shipped, worth it or not? Should i haggle? Local shop has one for 659 plus tax.
4. Wait for the gun show and see what they have, but look for what?

All your info is much appreciated. First time i went to a gun range was last year late in the summer and wanted to buy a gun then. I shot a new XDM45 9mm (that's correct, right?) i also shot a beretta 92fs, shot a CZ75b, really nice! shot a sig226, nice but maybe the grips hurt my hand. i have smaller hand.

Since then i registerd at 2 sites and have been reading on acronyms, brands and everything i learn more and more. i've only shot a 9mm so for now i want to do that, since it's cheaper for ammo at the range, then eventually a 40/45 etc.

thanks!
-mark
 
I think you might be over paying for the Taurus 1911 in 9mm. For that amount of money, you could get a nice Smith & Wesson M&P that will hold 17+1 it will cost you less. Runs $569. Seems like you might like this since you spoke of wanting a home defense handgun.

I myself own a Taurus 454 raging bull, and it broke pretty easily during a functions check. I understand this is a completely different firearm, just talking about quality now. Don't get me wrong, I like Taurus, but not sure I would put them first in line for a self defense firearm. Just my two cents.
 
It's going to depend on how important the stainless is to you. RIAs, Spartans, etc do not offer a stainless model. Stainless is going to be lower maintenance. If you're looking for a knockaround gun or a gun that is going to see a lot of harsh conditions, the stainless Taurus would be the way I would go. $600 for a stainless 1911 isn't a bad deal at all. You could do plenty worse. You might be able to find a used stainless Springfield for around $600, but I don't think you'll find a stainless 1911 much cheaper though.

But if you don't really have a preference of stainless over parkerized, there are other cheaper options that will be just as good.
 
Budsgunshop.com has the stainless 9mm Taurus 1911 for less than $600 brand new, delivered to your dealer. You can be out the door for less than 600. Saying that I have no experience with Taurus 1911's and can't make a recommendation.
 
Thanks everyone, quick question, does this forum allow multiquoting? I couldn't uh, find the button?

Quack and Carter
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thanks for the info. What's the difference between the STI Spartan for $650 versus the RIA Tactical 1911 for $430? Is the Spartan a better brand? Better part manufacturing? I saw this one on gunbroker, http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=214657557 , how easy is it replace the sights? i dont know if i'm too keen on it.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=214657557 the spartan looks like a combo of mil spec and GI

Also, i can't tell if either one is Mil Spec or GI. I think the tactical is GI, doesn't look like an expanded ejector slot, the serrated slots are vertical as well. but the sights are not GI. I cant tell either if it has the expanded ejection port.

Reuben
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Thanks for the brand feedback. it's appreciated. i read a few threads about Taurus overall. and yeah it gets good and bad, and when it's bad, it's really bad with CS and return turnaround. At the same time i do hear that turn around is 10 to 14 days versus months. So yeah it's cool for the info.

Olympus
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Well, it's a little important based on the stainless. it gives it a little more color versus the RIA Tact. I dont mean to bash on it, cuz it is a nice gun but it looks like a little generic on the side. I understand other 1911's i see are two tone'd, customized etc, but also are big bucks. but yeah i don't mean to be bashing on it cuz i'm not. I'd for sure change the grips on it, but that's a different ball game later on.

Can you explain to me the differences between parkerized and stainless? What do you mean lower maintenance? Is parkerized more prone to scratches etc?

I'll be willing to pay a little more say 700 for a springer if it's stainless, though i just dont know where i can?

czrami
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i checked on budsgunshop as someone else mentioned it's on there for 552 but i couldn't find it? i saw other stainless models but not the exact same model as a pt1911 unless i looked wrong. can you link?

Blay
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Can you explain how the Spartan is much better than the taurus? i'd like to know why.
 
Stainless steel is just that stainless steel. It has a lower amount of carbon in the steel which makes it rust resistant. Stainless steel is more forgiving if you get a scratch. You can polish the scratch out and go back to new again.

Parkerization is a finish that is applied to regular carbon steel. You need to keep it oiled regularly. It will be much more suseptible to rust than stainless steel. The finish will also wear off around parts that move, such as your thumb safety, grip safety, etc. Once the finish is worn off, you're down to raw steel and if not kept wiped down and oiled, it will rust just like any other piece of raw steel. If you plan on keeping the gun in a holster, the finish will also wear off along the sharp edges of the gun as the gun is drawn and holstered frequently. These factors need to be taken into account before purchasing and it will all depend on how you plan on using the gun and what you want the gun to look like.

I have both blued and stainless guns and they usually serve different purposes for me.
 
Oh wow, i'm not liking parkerization maintenance. but at the same time, it would be cool to pull the gun out and you know, take care of it. I'd have to learn how to take it apart i would assume? (i saw a youtube vid on the pt 1911 and it looked easy, but i wonder how it is in the real world in my hands).

Is blued the same as parkerization? How often is a parkerized gun supposed to be oiled? depending on usage? Say i took it to the range once a month, or twice?
Is it recommended to get a holster, or would the padded box be fine, under a bed, drawer? (no kids)

What purposes are you talking about when it comes to blued and stainless guns?


For everyone else, when i go to the gun show, something in stainless 9mm 1911 in say a springer is 600 to 700 a fair price? Also, what other brands make stainless steel? Other type of material that requires less maintenance?
 
I live in a humid climate and if I touch blued or parkerized metal with my bare hand without wiping it off, you put that gun in the safe and come back a month later there will be oxidation where I touched the bare metal. I don't know if I have extra salty or acid oils in my hands, but I have first hand experience as to what will happen to blued guns if I don't wipe them off completely before I put them away. My experience with parkization is that it is more suspetible to rust than bluing. Bluing and parkerization are two different processes.

For me, my blued guns are typically safe queens. They get treated with a little more respect. I keep them fully oiled when I store them and take care not to get scratches in the finish. My stainless guns are my shooters. I treat them a little more harshly than I do my blued guns because there is finish to hurt. I don't worry about making sure I wipe all of my fingerprints off the metal. I've even been known to put them away without cleaning them after range trips. I know that as long as I don't go years without maintaining my stainless guns, they will clean up just as good as new the next time I have time to clean them.
 
that's the one i was looking at but the reason i wasn't sure (even though buds pics warn that they may not match the product) but bud's the one u linked, differs from here.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=215146418.

the main difference is the hammer isn't the same. Broker's pic is rounded, while buds is a little slanted and longer. also the grips are missing the diamonds on Bud's. but again it confused me because of the stock pictures versus the real product.

broker has this for 600
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=215463137
 
Man thanks for the info Olympus, so it's either strict maintenance or a stainless.
I'm waiting for the gun show. maybe i can find springer stainless.

Do you know who else makes stainless weapons? Also, what other materials there are? Just alloy?

Punisher, thanks for the feedback.
 
People who live in dry climates may not have the same problem as me, so cleaning them may not be so strict. But I literally coat all my blued guns in Rem Oil before I put them up in the safe or they will develop rust where my fingers were on the metal.

Most all major gun manufacturers offer stainless models. Armscor guns, RIA, Citadel, Charles Daly, etc do not offer a stainless model. They make a hard chrome and nickel model which will be more rust resistant than a parkerized finish, but not quite as resistant as stainless steel. There are also manufacturers who use alloy frames which will not rust either.

If you have time to devote to making sure the gun is wiped down good, chances are you will never see any rust on your gun. It's all about maintenance and the amount of care you want to put into the gun. I've seen people treat their guns like a stick of firewood and I've seen people who treat their guns better than their own kids (slight exaggeration). It just depends on where you fall on the spectrum.
 
American Classic Deluxe or the American Classic Commander . both less than 500 in blue . Their is the Trophy in hard chrome its more target model It less than 700 .
RIA are good
I have never had luck with Taurus pistols an stopped buying them
 
thanks for the info Olympus.

gym
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looks like the EMP is a carry or compact? Thanks, but i should have posted i was looking for a full barrel. thanks though!

michael
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thanks for the tips. didn't know the 1911 were referred to as Classic commander. are they in 9mm?
 
I don't believe the American Classic or Classic Commander are offered in 9mm.
 
Question for your to answer to yourself: Why have you chosen a 1911 instead of a striker fired (M&P, Springfield or whatever).

I own one or more 1911, so am not knocking them.

You have a number of responses that emphasize the difficulties of proper maintenance if the weapon is not stainless.

I have blued weapons that are 40 years old and have been fired several thousand rounds. Naturally they have worn the blue off in friction areas, but none of them have ever had any rust, just because I wipe them down after each use.

Parkerized guns need to have their oils replaced by a heavier wipedown, leaving the oil on them, but otherwise will maintain their protection quite well if not allowed to dry out.
 
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