Help with Identifying Shotgun

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Sport45

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I posted this on another forum and haven't received any response. My appologies in advance if you've seen this before...

This muzzle-loading shotgun was a wall hanger at my wife's grandparents house for as long as she can remember. I don't know if it was ever used by anyone in her family for anything other than decoration and sadly, there's nobody left who knows any history of this gun.

Anyway, I didn't measure the bore (can't believe I missed that) but it looks like a 12-gauge. The barrel is 39-5/8" long measured from the inside.
102_1028.jpg

The only makings I can make out on the side plate is an OOD. It's hard to tell if the preceding marks are characters or just scratches.
102_1031.jpg

The barrel has a couple of proof marks and a bead set in a shallow dovetail.
102_1035.jpg
102_1036.jpg

I believe the stock has been repaired as evidenced by the two screws set behind the tang.
102_1037.jpg

The bore has some rust, but no bulges and there are a couple of brass pins missing that secure the wooden ramrod guide to the underside of the barrel.
102_1046.jpg

Can you tell by the pictures where this gun was made and when? There's what looks like a name plate on the left side of the stock, but if it ever had anything on it I can't tell now.

I'd like to know if you think this shotgun could or should be restored to shooting condition (probably to fire a dozen times and put back on the wall for the next generation). The hammer feels real sluggish and doesn't lock back. It may just need to be pulled back further, but I'm reluctant to force things. Does the screw on the left side hold the side plate on? I'd like to strip the thing down a bit to give it a good cleaning and see if I can do anything with the lock work.

Thanks in advance for any insight you can lend.
 
There really is not enough information to tell you much about the weapon. Most single barrel muzzle loaded shotguns were individually made by local gunsmiths or bought by local sellers that had their name put on the lock plate. The OOD is likely the last letters of the maker or seller of the gun.

There was a seller in Boston by the name of Kirkwood that is associated with doubles as is Hood Firearms of Norwich Conn. If it cleans up a bit more and you can read more letters.

Yes the single screw on the back side holds the lock plate on the stock. Don't force anything. Give all of the threaded parts a good soak with a good penetrating oil before trying to remove any screws. I prefer a product called Kroil. Let the product work for a few days. Multiple applications may be necessary.

If you can afford it, I would contact a good gunsmith experienced in antique percussion guns. There are some in the Houston area and I know of some folks in San Antonio that might can help you a bit more. At the least, it needs a good cleaning to save it for the next generation.
 
Thanks! I'll start oiling the threads of the lock plate screw when I get home. When I do get around to taking it apart what surprises am I likely to find? It looks like the fit between the hammer and sear has to be done blind as the trigger will not be coming off with the lock plate. Or do I remove the hammer first and the lock plate come off alone?
 
I was told on the other forum that this is not a shotgun, but rather a Brown Bess musket that has been converted to percussion. Reading up on the Brown Bess this appears to be correct. I can't tell yet if this conversion was done by the British Army in the mid 1800's or by an individual later. The wooden ramrod makes this an early gun if the ramrod hasn't been changed. The end that doesn't show in the pictures has a worm screw.
 
While I do not believe this Long Arm began life as a Brown Bess -


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Brown_Bess.png


- I will say, the Hammer Nose to Nipple meet is off, or not right, suggesting to me anyway, that a longer Nipple type would improve the meeting angle...and, that the present Nipple-Drum or Nipple is a not quite right replacement.


Name might be 'Good', hard to tell in the image...maybe try different lighting angles and some WD40 which can bring out subtle refractions in sidelight...there are probably some preceding Letters, or, preceding initials and Letter characters in cadence with the visible "OOD" part.
 
The lock should come off as a unit, hammer and all. Soak everything after you have it off and you will likely find some more marks. Use a brass brush to clean off the rust on the lock plate after soaking it and you may be able to reveal a little more lettering.

While the barrel may have been a musket barrel, I don't think it was a Brown Bess. The lock plate has always been a percussion, never a flintlock like the Bess. The Stock doesn't appear to be right for a Bess either. It seems to have more drop in the comb, but you really cannot tell from pictures. Also, the Bess lock is attached I believe with 2 screws, not one like on yours.

I think you have a local gunsmith product put together from what was available and worked reasonably well. You may hav a mix/match of old barrel and other parts.
 
Two other firearms manufacturers whose names end in "OOD" are H. HAPGOOD, a maker of percussion arms, and a OSGOOD GUN WORKS of Norwich, Conn, which is listed as a producer of cartridge arms in the 1880s.
 
Could be Hapgood. It doesn't take a lot of imagination to see a "PG" in front of the "OOD".

Name.jpg

Thanks!

This gives me another path to follow in the investigation.
 
This was on the Hapgood family forum:

"Re: hapgood shotgun boston 1800;s
Posted by: Charlie Burkhardt Date: June 15, 2001 at 21:31:30
In Reply to: hapgood shotgun boston 1800;s by charles mustaller of 232

I have a magazine named "The Gun Report", July 1976, that has an article on Captain Joab Hapgood, Gunmaker 1804 - 1890 that made shotguns and firearms in Shrewsbury and Boston, Mass."

check out this auction (scroll down a few):
http://www.jcdevine.com/auction/catalog.aspx?Auction=2905&Sec=7&Pg=3
 
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Shoot we ought to call you guys THE BLACK POWDER DETECTIVES



You guys are awesome indeed though. ITs good to know all of you
 
The lockplate is not shaped like a Bess. Nor was that lock ever a flintlock. There'd be a few more holes on it for the frizzen spring. The stock isn't like that of a Bess either. I'd hazard to guess it's a civilian sporting arm.
 
I'd say that the proof it is a Hapgood at this point is beyond a reasonable doubt.
In my line of work, that is all it takes. :D

The Doc is out now. :cool:
 
I just measured the muzzle at 0.717 inches. Would that make this an improved cylinder 12 gauge or an indication of muzzle damage? A 12 gauge should be closer to .729" and I don't know if they were choking them back then.

How much would I hurt the value by cleaning up the bore and lockwork and trying to make it functional?
 
You have to be extremely careful if you are not experienced in restoration or you will blow the value. Cleaning the bore is OK, removing patina is not on either the metal OR the wood. I would be cautious on firing it too. By the look of the rust in the bore, the breech plug threads may have rust. Yesterday's metal contains impurities and is not as refined as it is today. There was jug choking in that period.
 
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