Help with SW model 67 info (Pics added)

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Makoman

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Hello everyone. First time poster, but long time lurker here. Hoping y'all can help me out. I'm in the process of acquiring a model 67-1 combat masterpiece off of a fellow member on a local forum, actually meeting up with him today. I know this is essentially a stainless version of the model 15, but I'm trying to find info on the model changes between the different "dash" versions. There's a lot of info on Wikipedia on the model changes on the 15, but I don't think they correspond with changes in the 67 since the 67 was introduced much later.

Any info on, or where I can find this info is much appreciated.
 
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No, that's backwards.

The Model 15 is the blue or nickel version first introduced in 1949.

The model 67 is the stainless steel version introduced in 1972.

The 67 dash-1 was the first revision and occurred in 1977.

It moved the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder.

rc
 
Oh crap, I did write that backwards, I'll go ahead and fix it. Do you have any idea where I can find info on all of the revisions done to the 67 through the years?
 
Howdy

Yup, the SCSW is the 'Bible' for S&W enthusiasts.

"Model 67: The .38 Combat Masterpiece Stainless.

Caliber .38 S&W Special. Double-action revolver built on the square butt K target frame with three screws. Stainless steel version of the Model 15; 4" barrel with pin and top rib, 6-shot fluted cylinder with a nominal length of 1.56", red ramp front sight on ramp base with stainless steel adjustable micrometer click rear sight, later changed to a black rear sight. Walnut Magna style stocks with S&W medallions, non shrouded extractor, 10-groove serrated backstrap and forestrap, .375" semit-target hammer, .312" smooth combat trigger. Produced c. 1972 - date.

Engineering and Production Changes

67 (1972): Introduction
67-1 (1977) Change to move gas ring from yoke to cylinder.
1982: Delete pinned barrel.
67-2 (1988) New yoke retention system/radius stud package/floating hand/hammer nose bushing.
67-3 (1993) Change extractor, drill and tap frame, introduce Hogue grips, change rear sight leaf.
1996: Delete square butt/begin shipments in blue plastic case.
1997: Change thumbpiece/ship with Master trigger locks/change to MIM trigger.
67-4 (1998) Change in frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud/eliminate serrated tangs/change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin/change internal lockwork.
2001: Fired case.
67-5 (2002) Introduce internal lock system.
67-6 (2004) New two piece barrel design."

This is from my 3rd Edition of the SCSW, published in 2006.

Waiting for the 4th edition which should be out soon.
 
Well, here she is. SN is ADH22XX. Not sure when it was made, but being a non-pinned 67-1, sometime in 1982 or later I assume. CDF denotes California Department of Forestry. Anyone have any idea what the V marking on the cylinder represents?

IMG_0490.jpg

IMG_0491.jpg

IMG_0492.jpg

IMG_0493.jpg

IMG_0495.jpg
 
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The V is just an inspector or fitters Mark.

No special meaning, just thier way of keeping the ducks in a row if there is ever a problem.

rc
 
Looks like a good honest working gun with a neat history. A lot of those scuffs and scratches will polish right out if you are so inclined. Nothing wrong with some honest wear and character though.
 
I'm happy with it. Perhaps at a later day, I will send it to Smith & Wesson and have it bead blasted. In all honesty though, I will probably leave it as it is as the slight wear it has gives it some character.
 
SN is ADH22XX.

Howdy Again

According to SCSW ADE6700 was made in October of 1983, and ADT2999 was made in December of 1983. So that puts your ADH22XX somewhere in the middle.

If you want to have it bead blasted, you can probably do that locally. I don't know if S&W will bead blast a revolver that did not leave the factory with that type of finish.

Personally, I would just leave it as it is.
 
No, I haven't had the chance to shoot it yet. We have that blasted 10 day "cooling off" period in CA because, of course, I can't just reach into my safe and grab any of the nearly 2 dozen other guns that I own to go and kill someone if I wanted to.
 
Thanks for the info, I was actually looking up information to try to figure out the manufactre date.
 
Waveski,

See OP's explanation along with posting of the pictures.

Thank you. My miss.

Makoman --- Bead blast ...? Shoot the revolver , then each time you clean it use a bit of FLITZ , and it will just get better and better.
 
Great, solid revolver. I was issued one in 1987, and shot very well with it, even in LE competitions. Wouldn't mind running into another one.
 
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