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Here's what I've been working on the last 6 weeks

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Tomahawk674

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Dec 19, 2007
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Location
St. Joseph, MO
I decided to take a Spiller & Burr kit and try to make it look really nice, kind of "just for fun", although I had made my mind up I was going to sell it when I was done. It took 6 weeks worth of grinding, sanding, polishing, fitting, etc.

http://gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=129367574

I know the price is high and it won't sell fast (or maybe ever!) but it still doesn't nearly cover the ammount of hours and attention I put in it. Perhaps someone out there will appreciate the attention to detail.

Hope you guys like the pics & videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmPi5gls6QU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DDpog0E9dE4
 
Man those gunbroker pics look tiny. Here's bigger shots:

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very nice! the only thing i don't like about shiny guns is that i'd be afraid to scratch them - personally, i'm rough and tough on the stuff i own/use. But it sure is pretty, better put on sunglasses if you're shooting it on a sunny day...:cool:

TMM

(and it's funny/ironic to see this post, as i was thinking about antiquing my 1851 Colt revolver sometime...)
 
Before shots

Here's what the frame and grips looked like when I started... yikes...

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Wow! the before/after shot makes it even more impressive... you should have put that photo in the auction too, just to show what kind of work was put into it.

TMM
 
Tomahawk... you

worked magic on that piece! You should definately've posted the "before" pix with your for sale posting. :what:
 
Saweet!One of the first kits I ever built was a Spiller and Burr.Just as rough as a cob when I got it.When I finished,it looked store bought,but nowheres near as pretty [if you can use that word to describe a gun] as yours.
 
Really nice looking gun. You truly have the artists touch in finish work. I think you may have found your true calling, the problem is making a living wage at it. Anyway, my hat is off to you.
 
Be a shame to shoot that beauty, but I'd force myself. Then spend the rest of the day cleaning and polishing! What a great lookin gun.
 
Ok, let me try to narrate the process:

After I got the kit, the first thing I did was sand the grips down to fit the frame. This was done with the lowest grit sand paper I could find and then worked my way up to 150. This took a couple of days.

Then I proceeded to work on the brass frame. The injection points from the mould were very obvious, so I used a file to get those down. Any piece of metal that was too jagged I worked on with the file. After that I started sanding the frame with 220 grit, then 320, then 400. To help me sand I would use wooden blocks and other random things like popsicle sticks.

I then deblued all the steel parts by wrapping them in paper towels soaked in vinager. Then I kept sanding all the metal with 400 grip sand paper, then 600, and finished with 1500. It took massive ammouns of sanding to remove all the pitting. The hard to get spots like the nipple recesses were sanded using sand paper wrapped around a pencil, that I stuck in the openings and twisted back and forth. I also used cardboard shims with sand paper to get into other hard spots like inside the loading lever hinges. After everything was thoroughly sanded, I polished the entire thing with mother's metal polish.

Then the grips had to be resized because of all the material I had removed from the frame. After they were shaped just as I wanted with 150 grit, I applied 600 grit sand paper for a smooth feel and put on 2 coats of oild based minwax clear polyurethane finish (one coat one day, one the next) and then sanded again with 1500 grit sand paper for their final finish.

I used no more tools than those I mentioned. I have to say my fingers were pretty much out of commission for a long while, but it was worth it.

Let me know if you have any more question
 
Wounderful job

Hey kid - $400.00 ain't enough. You have a great future ahead of you should you take that route.

Say again, BEAUTIFUL.

Best ........ANDY
 
Very well done. Clearly a lot of work rewarded by a beautiful result.

One suggestion: the wood to metal transition at the top of the grips might be better without the ledge; in other words, removing some more wood in that area might make for a better transition. The grips are not usually proud of the frame in that area.

Very, very nice work.
 
Thanks again for the comments guys! glad to know so many people appreciate it.

If I were to try to get back all the work I did in it, I know $400 wouldn't be enough. But then again the intent is to sell it so I need to compromise. Perhaps I should take a gun smithing course and go work for Cimarron ;)

About the top of the grips, I thought about making them more flush with the frame, but the grips and frame already feel slim, so I did not want to remove any more material. I rounded of the edges so that if you run your fingers down the grame and over the top of the grips it feels smooth and rounded.
 
My spiller has found a new home today.

I went to the Kansas City gun show and an antique gun dealer really liked it, and it went for $350 cash. I didn't quite sell it for exactly what I wanted but it was an ok offer, and I'm glad it's sold.

Most of the other dealers were really impressed by the looks but they didn't want to touch a replica. I got to handle a boatload of originals though, which was fun, but I wouldn't want to own one.

Now the question is do I get a new bp toy or upgrade my computer...
 
My spiller has found a new home today.

I went to the Kansas City gun show and an antique gun dealer really liked it, and it went for $350 cash. I didn't quite sell it for exactly what I wanted but it was an ok offer, and I'm glad it's sold.

Most of the other dealers were really impressed by the looks but they didn't want to touch a replica. I got to handle a boatload of originals though, which was fun, but I wouldn't want to own one.

Now the question is do I get a new bp toy or upgrade my computer...
No brainer... new bp toy. Sales come/go on new 'puters. :evil:
 
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