Hi Power - Racking the slide

[David W. Gay]

While checking out a BHP at my local shop, I tried to rack the slide. It was very stiff and difficult to accomplish. Definately not something that I would be able to do in a stressful situation.

Is that common or standard for Hi Powers? I tried several that were on display, and they were all that way. Even the store clerk thought they were stiff, and Hi Power's are his favorite guns.

Oh, and can the thumb safety be replaced with an wider safety, similar to 1911's?

Thanks for any help or info.

- dwg

 

[cox3497]

Mr. Gay,
This is, indeed, a common condition of the Hi-Power. The slide is rather "stiff" and requires a rather firm pull to retract. This can be especially difficult with the off hand. However, if this does pose a problem, the resistance can be lessened greatly if you just pull the hammer back manually before you rack the slide -- although this doesn't help much if you were to be in a self-defense situation.
Some people choose to carry the Hi-Power in "cocked-and-locked" as they do the 1911. Everyone has a different opinion as to this method; but, if you decided to carry it in this manner, you should insure that you have a thumb-flap holster that would prevent the hammer from falling on the firing pin should the safety slip and the trigger be accidentally pulled.
As to replacing the safety, I do believe that there are some aftermarket options available. I've never had a problem with the safety on my Silver Chrome BHP however and as such don't know much about them. I would be surprised if there was one as big as for the 1911, though.
All in all, the BHP is a delightful firearm. Mine has proved extremely reliable and an absolute joy to shoot. Best of luck with whatever decision you make.
cox3497

 

[BHPshooter]

Yes, it is pretty common. However, you do get used to it. Do some grip-strengthening exercises and take it to the range a few times (the latter is something you should do before trusting any gun anyway) and it won't be an issue. The design offers many other virtues that are worth the effort.

As for the safety question, there are many gunsmiths who do custom safety levers, but I don't know the cost or how much wider they are. There are one or two after market options, but again, I don't know how wide they are.

if you decided to carry it in this manner, you should insure that you have a thumb-flap holster that would prevent the hammer from falling on the firing pin should the safety slip and the trigger be accidentally pulled.

I don't think having a thumb-break is absolutely necessary... it is more of a preference. Personally, I don't like them. For a year-and-a-half I've used Hi Powers as my only guns, and if they are loaded, they are cocked and locked. I have had exactly zero problems.

Remember the safety rules, and you'll do fine -- regardless of what kind of holsters you use.

Wes

 

[Michael]

Mr. Gay,

What has been posted regarding slide actuation is good information. Are the pistols you tried 9mm or .40 S&W? The recoil spring in the .40 is several pounds heavier than the 9mm. That said, shooting a few hundred rounds does make it somewhat easier. Also, Wes's advice regarding exercise is good. Technique is a third variable. When I first started shooting 1911 Governemnt Models, I had the same trouble the first time or two. I learned through trial and error a couple of things. First, hold the pistol grip in your dominant hand, as if you were preparing to fire it, grasp the top and sides of the slide between the front and rear sights with your non-dominant hand, and then hold the non-dominant hand firm while shoving the dominant hand toward it. In effect, you will be moving/shoving the frame while holding the slide stationary. It works quite well, and once you realize how easy it is to perform, you will find it becomes easier to actuate the action by pulling the slide back with your hand. Many folks I run across fail to appreciate how much strength they need to apply to retract the slide that first time, and unable to accomplish that, believe, albeit unrealistically (usually), that they can not perform that action. What they do not realize is that they only need to apply a little more strength and that there is a technique to even the traditional method of slide retraction.

Second, regarding the thumb safety, an extended tab can be put on a BHP safety. I had Don Williams, of The Action Works (www.theactionworks.com), do mine for the grand sum of 39 dollars. It is quite well done, used my original, already fitted safety lever, and looks nicer than the Cylinder and Slide product, in my opinion. Good luck, sir.

Sincerely,

Michael

 

[9mmepiphany]

the heavier spring is a function of it's less massive slide... compared to a glock or sig

 

[sabre2]

Some people change a few springs around when they get a new Hi-Power. There is a kit available that includes a reduced power main spring(hammer spring), and an increased power recoil spring. It also can include an increased power trigger return spring. This set up is much smoother. The stock mainspring is very strong, so it requires great force to cock the hammer.
If you remove the magazine disconnect, the stock trigger return spring is a bit weak,and that is the purpose of that new spring.
Like any gun modification, there is some debate about this, so do the research and decide for yourself. Hi-Powersandhandguns and cylinderandslide are a couple of good starting points if you are interested in Hi-Powers.
John

 

[B36]

BHP 40

BHP 40. Was designed as a 40, not a warmed over 9 as in the Glock. Slide is heavier, and wider and higher than the 9.

A great shooting gun, reliable and accurate. Recoil spring is heavier due to the increased back thrust.

 

[MrMurphy]

I've never really noticed a heavy slide spring on the BHP (and I've shot quite a few), but between 20 years of shooting, 10 years of swordfighting and fencing, rock climbing and giving backrubs, I have extremely strong hands (small though they are), and pulling back the slide on any pistol is generally not a problem for me... so I'm probably not the best judge!

The only ones I've really ever had a problem with were a closed-bolt Uzi pistol, and a Desert Eagle, an early model .44 Mag, like a Model IX I think. That was a two-hands, a foot and a grunt to crank the slide on. Of course I was sixteen at the time.. i've gotten stronger in the last 11 years.

 

[P95Carry]

I have always found the BHP heavy to rack ... and as has been said when time permits a hammer cocked first makes things way easier.

Otherwise tho I'd suggest what might be called the ''double opposition move'' .... all I mean by that is ... for me as right hander .... take a good grip over top of slide with whole length of thumb and a lot of the forefinger, of weak hand ... max contact area, pointing to rear. Whilst moving this to the right and rear ... the right hand moves forward and left with the frame/grips hold - such that the action is active by both hands and arms - and so equal and opposite. Further to that I think it needs done as an ''inertial'' action ... very brisk - a fast acceleration of these two hand movements and this helps over come the hardest point of the motion, which is the initial moving rearward of the hammer, against max mainspring tension.

Practice will always improve this technique IMO... and make it less challenging. Plus ... never try and use the ''traditional'' method ... with just part of thumb and forefinger on the rear slide serrations ... not enough grip and harder to be ''inertial''.