Holster advise for hiking

[ehopper302]

I'm buying a Taurus Tracker in .357 model 627 with a 4" barrel and looking for recommendations for a holster to carry it with while hiking. I usually hike with a small backpack if that makes a difference in choices. Any suggestions for a newbie?

 

[Jim March]

Are you going to do open carry, or concealed? Makes a big difference. Concealed carry with a backpack is a pain...shoulder carry gets screwed up by the pack straps, and often so is belt carry to the direct side or any part rearward.

If you're doing open carry, a crossdraw rig carried just to one side of your belt buckle, usually towards your weak-side arm. In other words, a right-hander would carry about 4" to 6" to the left of the belt buckle. This will probably be the fastest rig to draw from while wearing the pack, and there's another advantage: you can get to the gun with your left hand too, in a pinch. The extreme bottom end of the grip lines up with your belt buckle.

Given that you're in Alaska, and wilderness gun carry for bears is considered "culturally normal", that sort of open carry makes a whole lotta sense. When encountering others on the trail, be very friendly, give a wave with your right hand, keep your left away from the gun. You'll be signalling a non-violent stance despite an open-carry gun.

Check this out:

http://www.mernickleholsters.com/fc/fc3.html

That's a highly-molded leather crossdraw rig that holds the gun tight enough that no retaining strap is needed. In my opinion, that's what you want, or a kydex equivelent. If a bear jumps out at you at close range, you need to bring it to "bear" pretty damned fast.

Others:

http://www.huntercompany.com/hunter.html

http://jl-site.com/TuckerLeather/FieldHolster.html

http://www.fist-inc.com/holsters/holster/42.htm - dunno if they'll support a DA wheelgun in your gun's size range but this set of pictures shows how the general type works.

I'm not saying this is the "only" answer. But...it's a good one.

Other stuff: a weird psychological thing is that a very good looking gun/holster setup is "less threatening" to others than a piece of crap. It has a lot to do with public perceptions. If you can afford it, the fully-carved Mernickle above will be a very good option.

If you must go concealed, a fanny pack in the woods will get no notice whatsoever. It'll be slower to get to though.

Last thing: consider getting some raw leather, a punch and leather lace or paracord and brewing your own. While the results won't be as slick-looking (although with care and some conchos/beadwork you can do VERY good work), they'll be fitted perfectly to you, your belt/packstraps and your gun.

Here's the best leather rig I ever made:

It's one holster designed to hold two guns - a 22Mag minirevolver and a 38Spl snubby. The conchos cover up cross-lacing that tightens the rigs just below the triggers. When worn strong-side the two conchos are vertical, due to the forward cant.

The leather was folded around the guns, the edge-holes were drilled with a Dremel tool and leather lace around the edges finished it up. Came out looking pretty damned good and worked very well.

Edit: fixed picture link...

 

[ehopper302]

Thanks for the reply Jim. With your links I think I can find something.

 

[TABING]

From my long experience in hiking the Sonoran Desert, the number one thing I want is a holster that really secures the gun well. (I once lost my Ruger Security Six from a not too secure rig and spent HOURS retracing my steps to finally find it).

Now when in the wilderness, I use a very secure holster with a flap. In the thorny desert the flap offers good protection from scratching and snagging. Since I always carry a rifle as my primary arm, the handgun for quick defense is not an issue.

 

[Jim March]

Tabing: I suspect conditions in Alaska are a bit different. I've been to the Alaskan back woods and there's generally trails. Off-trail hiking in the woods is close to impossible. Therefore, the "snags issue" isn't as severe.

The bears are a LOT more severe though. Fast access could mean life or death. And very hot hardcast 357s CAN take a Griz, if you shoot it low in the head (avoid the "forehead", that's a big lump of bone anchoring the jaw muscles - shoot at eye/cheek level, as close to dead center on the muzzle as possible).

 

[armoredman]

http://www.imageseek.com/hbeleather/

 

[Jim March]

The link Armoredman gave is a good one. There's a couple of models where you can custom-specify a given angle. While wearing your pack, you'd hold the gun up to your belt and sort out the appropriate angle, then specify that. I would include an outline of the gun on a piece of paper and draw in the width and placement of the belt, to make sure he gets it right.

The sort of tightly-molded leather done by him, Mernickle and the like allows no-snap carry with good retention yet good draw speed. Kydex can do the same. The more "old west traditional" pattern where the holster leather is NOT closely molded to the gun really needs a retention strap of some sort, such as a loop of leather over the hammer (very old-school) or the more modern snap type (or most recently, velcro).

 

[Mark]

My opinion.
The revolver needs to be worn on your leg, with the muzzle almost to the knee. When you drop your arm to your side the grip should be at hand level. Kodiak means rain, more rain, and later probably rain. The revolver needs to be outside of the rain jacket or you might as well leave it at home. The holster should have straps to secure it against your leg so it does not flop freely. There are pictures in Cabela's of a "Gun Mate Tactical Holster". I made one for my Redhawk from a nylon holster and some nylon strapping. Works very well, but a pain to put on. Something professionally manufactured would be better.
Retention is an issue. A flap would protect the gun best, but would take the longest to access. No strap means it could fall out on a river crossing, etc. I opt for the strap with a snap as the compromise.

Don't let this degenerate into a bear defense caliber thread or it will be eight pages long by monday. By the way, that .357 isn't big enough.

 

[ehopper302]

Mark, I don't want this thread to turn into a debate on how big I should carry. I see your in Fairbanks. As you know the bears here are the worlds largest carnivores. This .357 will mostly be used as a back up or used while fishing in populated areas. I normally hike with people that carry .454's and .44's along with various rifles. Again I thank all of you for the links.
PS. I'm sure glad I found this great site!!

 

[Jim March]

I forgot to mention rain.

Personally, I don't like having my guns rained on. Even stainless guns have carbon-steel springs and whatnot inside. With crossdraw, you set up your raincoat covering the gun but unbuttoned or unzipped from the level of the gun on down. You then bring your hand up and into the gun, cover the hammer on draw so it isn't snagged, and you bring out a dry gun quite rapidly.

A low-drop "tactical thigh holster" IS another valid choice but depending on coat length it'll get wet...and if your coat is long enough to cover at least the top half, draw in my opinion is slower than crossdraw from under a properly set up coat.

 

[BlkHawk73]

I use a Mitch Rosen "Sport" holster while in the woods. Works great! snug fit yet still alows easy draw. Fits snug to the body and is super comfortable even for extended peroids.