"Holster Rejuvenater?"

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HHank

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I have a rather small safe (3.0 cu.ft) in which I store some documents and also a couple of my guns (Colt 1911 and S&W M-29 5" .44 mag) The Colt rides in a Bianchi Govt. model .45 holster and the .44 rides in a Bianchi 5bhl. Both are tan leather. The problem is that when taking them in and out over time they have developed several "scars and dings" on the leather's surface. The leather has also begun to fade. Is there a leather conditioner/fixer that you recommend that will "hide" or remove these scars and return the holsters to an "almost" original look? Thanks

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Thanks Klusterbuck, I guess there's not much interest in this subject. It's just that I see so many "pristene" holsters displayed in various pictures on this board that I just wondered how they are maintained. Or maybe they are used only for "show".

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Clear or Natural Kiwi shoe polish is as good as anything for hiding those scratches without changing the color of the holster. Unlike oil, it will not soften the holster or cause it to loose it's shape.

Tandy Super-Sheen or similiar is a clear acrilic finish used by many holster makers.
That will make your holster look like new again.

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/products.asp?number=2610-01

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rcmodel
 
HHank, there are quite a few of us, *ahem*, I mean posters on this board who have a good bit of money invested in something and don't want to *use* it to cause wear. Mental block, I guess! :D

The first scratch is the hardest, I guess. That analogy applies to vehicles and many other things to me in my world.

Shoe polish does work well, and doesn't deteriorate or soften the leather.

One point I wanted to make was that leather needs to breathe. It can mildew over a fairly short amount of time if it's locked in an airtight storage without good dessicants. Too much dessicants can cause it to dry out and become brittle so a healthy humidity level must be maintained (I'm not sure on actual numbers). I prefer a dresser drawer in a climate controlled environment, with periodic inspection and polishing if required.
 
HHank said:
I guess there's not much interest in this subject.
A holster is a tool, just like the defense tool it carries. Tools get used an acquire marks of usage. I don't worry about it if a wrench gets a scratch on it, same with a holster or a carry gun. So, I have no experience hiding marks on holsters. But then, I don't have "safe queen" holsters.
 
I use Lexol brand pH Cleaner and Conditioner on a half dozen leather jackets and all my shoes after giving up on other products.

People that deal with horse saddles and automotive people swear by it. That's a pretty good endorsement since leather in those environments get used and abused the most. It isn't full of waxes and junk like most other products that end up plugging up the pores in your leather. Leather needs to breathe or it cracks up and gets hard. They won't make old leather look new, but it returns it to a more rejuvenated state that makes them less susceptible to damage like older leather.

http://www.lexol.com/
 
Lexoil is great stuff!
But unlike jackets, shoes, saddles, and car seats, you don't want your hand-boned, wet-molded, custom holster to get soft and flexible.

IMHO: In the case of holsters, Lexoil is too much of a good thing!

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rcmodel
 
Hmm okay ignore my previous recommendations then. Won't using materials that keep leather unnaturally hard eventually starve it for oils and cause it to crack? I'm not sure what the "average lifespan" of a leather holster is.
 
Well, I don't know how long they can last either.

Years ago, say in the 1950's & 60's, a lot of cop leather came with no or very little oil and a high polish black die finish. Eventually they just wore out from banging on car doors, getting rained on & dried out over a stove, and the like.
But they didn't necessarily crack apart, and were never oiled because then, the spit-shine wouldn't take.

Sports holsters of the same era were usually brown oil finished, and they are still with us, and in pretty good shape. But they were more like loose gun pockets then todays hand-fitted custom holsters.

Old GI holsters & leather from WWI & WWII are often found dry & with the flaps cracked now.
But they were pretty dry & stiff to start with when they were new 75 to 100 years ago.

Regardless, that was then, and this is now.
The high quality hand-boned & fitted holsters we see now are usually molded to the gun when wet from vegetable tanned leather. That type of new leather has no natural oil left in it after the tanning process, is almost white in color, and will absorb water like a sponge.

They are wet molded to the gun when made, allowed to dry slowly, and then oiled sufficiently to lubricate the fibers and cause the natural brown color we see. Then they have a final finish of Leather-Sheen type acrylic applied to seal them from dirt & water.

Most custom makers caution never to apply any additional oil through the lifetime of the holster.

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rcmodel
 
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