Home design features for security.

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A secure passive-solar home?

I really like my in-laws passive solar home because the thing is just so darn efficient. The house works on the basis of the sun's angle at different times of the year.

During the winter, the sun is low, penetrating through the leafless tress and wall of glass and heating up the tile and brick against the back wall. The heat is held in at night by the sealed drapes and thick concrete walls. At night tight shades roll down in tracks creating a insulating air space between the shade and high E glass. Early morning may require a small log in the wood burning stove. The in-laws actually have to turn on their air exchanger at mid day during the coldest days of winter (0 degrees F) because the home is so efficient. The house is so tight that opening a door at one end of the house will cause a closed bedroom door at the opposite end to jiggle, hence the need for an air exchanger for fresh air.

During the summer the sun is high and does not penetrate far into the home because of the tree canopies and the small overhang over the windows. The house stays relatively cool. The hotest summer days do require a bit of AC to be comfortable in Northern Ohio from the afternoon to early evening.

Efficiency is a top concern in my dream home to allow us to last as long as possible, but windows are a security compromise. Some passive solar homes have turf mounded up over the west, east, and south sides for insulation. My dream home at this point would be a ranch home under a mound of earth, with south facing wall of glass. The walls and roof would be concrete slabs. The main entrance would be in the rear between 2 buried car ports. Camera security at the rear door. The only visible parts of the home would be the large windows on the south side and the doors on the north side. The large first floor windows on the south side are a security compromise. However at night, steel backed, insulating security shutters come down to make entering the home there more difficult, and more importantly, noisy. Safe room would be the master bedroom along the north wall, surrounded by several yards of earth, thick concrete walls, and a secure door. Lurking in the home are 2 Borboel mastiffs (dreaming). Utility room would be off the basement, housing the generators, fuel, with a steel grate roof (for secure generator ventilation) at ground level, along the side of the home.

This would certainly be an unconventional home, but my wife helped her parents build thier unconventional home when she was a girl, and is really supportive of the idea (especially from an efficiency standpoint).
 
Safe room would be the master bedroom along the north wall, surrounded by several yards of earth, thick concrete walls, and a secure door.
Sorry, but a "bedroom" by code has to have an exterior fire escape - either a large window or outside door.

I suppose you could build an "office" or "den" that was completely earth sheltered - no one can stop you from sleeping in there later if you want ;)

But then if you ever sell the house, that room will not count as a "bedroom"
(we bought a "3-bedroom" house in 1997 and had to sell it as a "1-bedroom" last year because the basement windows were no longer considered adequate egress :( )


Sounds like the house you are describing is a "hobbit hole" :D

I would have actually liked to build something like that myself, preferably dug in under the ubiquitous sandstone rimrocks that we have in this area. Talk about a low maintenance roof ;)
 
Then have other rooms that can pass for bedrooms on the floor plan, in that case. Just as you don't have to tell them you plan to sleep in the "den", you don't have to tell them you plan to use the "master bedroom" as a game room.

Though if you ask me, having two ways out of the rooms you plan on sleeping in is a good idea tactically, even if your home is totally fireproof. I hate being backed into a corner. If it was my home, there'd be a concealed hallway behind the bedrooms, accessable through the backs of the closets, and leading into the armory.

Nice thing about an underground home is that the presence of secret rooms and passages isn't immediately obvious. :evil:
 
The tunnel through the hill with the camoflauged exit would count as a fire escape... ;)

Always have several ways out.
 
If you haven't already, check into insulating concrete forms as a building material:

http://www.forms.org/product_info/product_benefits.html
http://www.cement.org/homes/

Think about your outdoor lighting and where the switches for these lights will go; you can have them all wired up to be controlled either from your safe room and / or master bedroom. It's nice to be able to illuminate all around your house from one location. You can also accomplish this after the fact with home automation controls (remote control, even!), but beware - some of these systems work more reliably than others. I have not had good experiences with X10. Get the free catalog from http://www.smarthome.com/ You won't believe some of the things you can do with automation.

Also with regard to wiring - if you are interested in having a permanently installed generator (they are all the rage lately where I live), have the wiring for this done when the house is built rather than later. Also, see that the wiring for your telephone is not easily accessible to a bad guy; I've seen firsthand that a smart bad guy will cut the phone wires before trying to enter the home. Assuming you will have an alarm, add motion detectors beyond the usual 1 or 2 so that most if not all of the house is covered by their sweep; especially cover any room where you routinely keep anything valuable. Consider connecting your safe (or equivalent) to the alarm as well. Consider having a safe built-in to the home where it is difficult for an outsider to find and where it cannot easily be removed by force.
 
What "Safe House" would be complete without one of these Level 4 Armored doors:

http://www.cecodoor.com/bullrest.htm

Also, don't forget the bulletproof windows:

http://www.secureglass.com/Residential.html

And don't forget about the walls. First, you need steel mesh:

http://amico-securityproducts.com/mesh.htm

and then you can put up the armored wall panels:

http://www.armorcore.com/

A little bit of paint over everything and no one will know that they're standing in a fully armored house that costs about five times more than a normal house would.
 
3M makes a film you apply to the inside of the windows that, while not bullet proof, will hold the glass shards together to prevent secondary projectiles and make it much harder for someone to break in through the window.

They have different thicknesses as well as reflectivities available and this stuff was originally designed to protect against bomb blasts. :what:
 
Yep, flying glass is incredibly nasty stuff. :eek:

That film is effective, I have helped install it in the past.
 
Cooper brings up some good points, like having the house effectively surround someone at the door, and having narrow windows to cover the door, from a couple of sides is better yet. The Irish had a hole over the doorway (in the ceiling above the door, used from the second story) to act as a firing point if the "visitor" was hostile. The door was inset into the house somewhat. Corners that protrude with narrow ports that can cover all the outside walls are good. Landings and corners in stairs are for defense points to slow anyone coming up. Also mentioned are steel window grates, they can look ornamental, that can be opened from inside if there is a fire, but not opened from outside. Steel grate doors inside the house to partition off certain areas can stop progress through the house for an intruder, and you can fire through them. Houses and outbuildings together should be able to effectively cover most of the other buildings


The cabins I've built have had functioniong shutters made from rough 1" lumber, and secured with hasps and padlocks from outside when I was away, or for high winds (100+ mph) which we sometimes get here. I use the large screw stud and steel strap hinges, no easy way to get the shutters off the hinges when closed. Also built the front doors from rough cut 2"x 8" lumber with rough 2x6 cross cleats and Z braces, bolted together with 3/8" carriage bolts. I use 3x12 planks for door and window frames, spiked into the wall logs with 12" spikes, or secured to sliding 2x4 cleats inletted into the logs for settling. I use a 5x6 glass pane in the center of the door at eye height to see who's there, and it is too far to reach in and work the latch, besides being a very vulnerable position with an arm hanging through a small port. Fairly small windows help some too, and high off the ground, maybe 5 feet or so, other than the one on the side with the porch. Narrows down the possible entry points and potential fields of fire. The surprise element is lost if an intruder has to make a lot of noise to gain entry while you are there. If you know they are there, you can respond. The house does not have to be impregnible to be effective, If you know they are there before they can actually enter or gain control of any part, you control the situation effectively, assuming you are up to it. If you wake up to see someone standing over you, you have lost the game, or at best, have surrendered the initiative to the intruder(s). My dogs are my early alert, and remote wireless driveway alarms help even more. One of the places I built had about 400 yards of winding driveway that was in the open, and could be observed from the low hill behind the house. I was about 100 feet or so above the road.

I've been thinking about motion detectors in different areas of the perimeter, with a receiver to let you know where the activity is taking place. A remote receiver to show this would be nice, so you could have it with you anywhere in or out of the main house. Where I live, animals are more of a day to day concern, but to ignore the human element would not be wise.

I like the idea of outbuildings being connected to the house underground, even if only by a culvert that can be crawled through. It could be a real surprise to an intruder to have an occupant show up unexpectedly where they thought no one was. This tactic was used by whites on the frontier against Indian attacks in at least one place. Gives a good opportunity for covering fire from different points.
 
For a conventional looking building I strongly suggest looking at integrated concrete forms (ICFs). Reinforced concrete is as good as it gets for building materials, it can store lots of heat and survive the worst nature can throw at it. Plus it is bullet proof.

www.ultimatesecurehome.com/secure_home.htm This house has some good ideas, and is a bit entertaining to read about.

quicksitemaker.com/members/formworks/index.html and www.earthshelter.com Partially buried homes, energy efficient, disaster resistant.

aidomes.com Steel reinforced geodesic domes.

www.domebuilders.com has a good BBS archive with lots of construction info, not just for domes. As does the previously mentioned monolithic.com BBS. It also has ballistic results of bullets vs domes. Domes are pretty much bullet proof unless someone has a .50 or greater, or lots of ammo and time.

I really suggest [url = http://www.radiantec.com/]radiant floors[/url] for heating, using solar hot water collectors with a storage tank is easy to setup, and has next to zero running costs. The systems can de-ice your driveway, and provide all your hot water.

http://www.multiaqua.com/ system can also be used for heating and cooling without any duct work.

NBC filters and systems are pretty cheap to incorporate into HVAC designs. I think I found some info on the dome BBSs.

For a backup generator I would suggest propane, natural gas, or some other source that will not go bad in a year or two. Unless you do not mind changing out the fuel and running it every four months.

www.backwoodshome.com and www.homepower.com are great for self sufficiency. If you do not mind left wing politics www.motherearthnews.com also has tons of info on home steading and self sufficiency. www.otherpower.com is good if you have to live off grid or like renewable energy.
 
A lot of great ideas here. I'll second the recommendation about insulated concrete forms and reinforced cast concrete construction. Very strong, energy efficient and impossible to tell from conventional construction except for the thickness of the window and door frames.

We had a "panic switch" installed on each side of the master bedroom that, via a relay, turns on all of the exterior lights at once: porch lights, garage exterior lights and flood lights at each corner of the house to provide full coverage of the yard. Noone can get within 50 yards without full illumination plus it prevents them from being able to see into the windows.
 
Depending on location might strobe the outside lights.

Depending on location might strobe the outside lights. Sometimes addresses and fire location codes aren't enough for folks to find the place. Also a hardwired private wire to neighbors and other signal mechanisms are worth considering.
 
No one has actually said it, but if money is no object, you select the site itself with level sloping land all around. Flat is good but level sloping is better.

Tou take the time to do range cards on all directions, ensuring that there is no visual and weapons dead space. Then you put your chain link fence as far out as you can, and cover by observation and fire.

The idea is to take them out before they even get close.

Nothing is perfect, but walik every foot of ground of ground, and do your best.

Do a range card from every window in the house, and identify any dead spaces. (areas not covered.)

Put motion controlled lights on the fence to light up the scrotes.

Think about how fire and EMT are gonna get in if you've "fallen and can't get up."
 
Doors opening out are harder for someone to break down, BUT, in snow country you can get stuck inside from a big snow.
 
I second the recomendation for ICF construction...the insulated concrete forms are hurricane & tornado proof depending on how you attach the roof. Basically the whole house is a bunker but with regular siding, etc looks just like a normal house. Wall strength has been tested for impacts up to 109mph (launching 2x4's at the walls) with no damage to the concrete. My wife and I are looking for property right now to build an ICF home on as it is the best bet for a safe secure shelter during a hurricane (a necessity living on the coast of Florida).

http://www.concrete-home.com/
http://www.rewardwalls.com/resbuild/rb_home.html
http://www.cement.org/homes/
http://www.forms.org/product_info/product_benefits.html
Source for homeplans:
http://www.designbasics.com/home/index.asp
 
My house wasn't design with defense in mind but one cool feature we have is a 3rd story tower (3/4 of the house is 1 story and the master bedroom is on the 2nd). The tower has slit-type windows on all four sides and with a rifle you could theoretically cover the whole property against invading barbarians from there.
Also all the ground floor windows have wrought iron bars covering them that are very solid but also go well with the spanish style of the place.
(edited for spelling)
 
A must for Dream Homes

First, you will need a moat around your house, preferably one filled with hungry alligators. Concrete walls are a good idea and should be accompanied with several machine-gun accommodating towers on all sides. Attach dogs within your compound are also necessary. Dogs that are feed gunpowder and that are frequently starved and abused work the best. Then, it is best to hire black-belt, ninja assassins to patrol the area surrounding your Fortress. Also, install CCTV, fire alarms, carbon dioxide alarms, bad breath alarms and metal detectors in every room in the home. And above all, you need food rationings to last at least five hundred years so that your great-great-great-great-great-great-great grandchildren will at least be afforded the basic nutrients. Wouldn't you want to be extended the same courtesy? Of Course.

I could not imagine existing without all the above. Good luck to you and your new home!
 
First, you will need a moat around your house, preferably one filled with hungry alligators. Concrete walls are a good idea and should be accompanied with several machine-gun accommodating towers on all sides. Attach dogs within your compound are also necessary. Dogs that are feed gunpowder and that are frequently starved and abused work the best. Then, it is best to hire black-belt, ninja assassins to patrol the area surrounding your Fortress. Also, install CCTV, fire alarms, carbon dioxide alarms, bad breath alarms and metal detectors in every room in the home. And above all, you need food rationings to last at least five hundred years so that your great-great-great-great-great-great-great grandchildren will at least be afforded the basic nutrients. Wouldn't you want to be extended the same courtesy? Of Course.

You forgot the minefield and granade launchers. :neener:
 
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