Hoppes No. 9 as a general lube?
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RON in PA
Member
Hoppes #9 was never meant to be a lubricant, it's mostly kerosine. It's great as a bore cleaner, but should be wiped off and then replaced with a good gun oil.
The only product I would recommend as a do-it-all is CLP.
The only product I would recommend as a do-it-all is CLP.
Hoppe's is *not* a lubricant; nor is it a long term preservative. Use it for its intended purpose, bore cleaning.
No need to go high tech with the oil, though. Anything resembling "3 in 1" oil works just fine on guns. I am still using some old Navy surplus "oil, light lubricating" that I bought for 50 cents a gallon years ago.
Hard to believe I need anything more sophisticated in the North Temperate Zone.
No need to go high tech with the oil, though. Anything resembling "3 in 1" oil works just fine on guns. I am still using some old Navy surplus "oil, light lubricating" that I bought for 50 cents a gallon years ago.
Hard to believe I need anything more sophisticated in the North Temperate Zone.
Dave Markowitz
Member
Ditto on Hoppe's No.9 being a cleaner, not a lubricant.
If you want one product to clean, lubricate and prevent rust use a "CLP," e.g., Break Free CLP, Ballistol, or FP-10. Of the three, Ballistol is the most useful for me because it is suitable for use on black powder firearms in addition to modern guns.
If you want one product to clean, lubricate and prevent rust use a "CLP," e.g., Break Free CLP, Ballistol, or FP-10. Of the three, Ballistol is the most useful for me because it is suitable for use on black powder firearms in addition to modern guns.
Hoppe's market some specific lubrication oils and protectants under their name.
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http://ussliberty.org
http://ssunitedstates.org
Another good all-in-one is G96 Gun Treatment. Its more a lubricant and preservative than a cleaner, but its good stuff.
Spary/wipe it on. leave it set for 10 minutes and wipe it off. It leaves a protective film on the metal that is very good at stopping rust.
Spary/wipe it on. leave it set for 10 minutes and wipe it off. It leaves a protective film on the metal that is very good at stopping rust.
dmftoy1
Member
I'm not saying I disagree with the other posters as I tend to use oil as well, but I "think" if you read the Hoppe's bottle it does say something along the lines of it being used after cleaning to protect your bore. I just checked the bottle of "standard #9" and it says that after your done cleaning your barrel to run a patch saturated with #9 down the barrel to protect it from rust . .so I guess they must believe it has some benefit.
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
possum
Member
like said many times above hoppes#9 is a cleaner not a lube, or prevenative, you can clean with hoppes but need to use other stuff that is made to be a lube and or rust preventative. clp, breekfree is good stuff and works really good. Militec-1 is also good stuff!
I almost forgot, g96 is great stuff and it smells great to! it's like the cologne of weapon cleaning for me.
50 Shooter
member
Put some on your fingers and swirl it around using your thumb, as it starts to dry it gets sticky. Add to that carbon and maybe a little dirt/dust and you can imagine what it'll do in your firearm.
tegemu
Member
It does make a great cologne though.
bogie
Member
Hey, sorry to be the heretic, guys... CLP is not the end-all... Most of you use it because that was all your drill sergeants gave you... Right?
If you're shooting a centerfire rifle, you're gonna get copper fouling. You need something that will actively work to remove that copper fouling. Butch's Bore Shine, Montana Extreme, Sweet's, whatever... There are a LOT of rifles with "shot out" barrels that just need the penny factory removed from their bores...
As for lubes, there's basically two kinds... A lighter oil, and a heavier grease, which usually comes packed in a SYRINGE.
Some things should also be BARELY lubed... i.e., lighter fluid is enough for a lot of triggers and internal workings... But I want my M-16 bolt to slide on some nice light oil (clp...).
If you're shooting a centerfire rifle, you're gonna get copper fouling. You need something that will actively work to remove that copper fouling. Butch's Bore Shine, Montana Extreme, Sweet's, whatever... There are a LOT of rifles with "shot out" barrels that just need the penny factory removed from their bores...
As for lubes, there's basically two kinds... A lighter oil, and a heavier grease, which usually comes packed in a SYRINGE.
Some things should also be BARELY lubed... i.e., lighter fluid is enough for a lot of triggers and internal workings... But I want my M-16 bolt to slide on some nice light oil (clp...).
Lupinus
Member
Hoppes Solvent shouldn't be left on any longer then needed and makes (imo) a not al lthat great lube.
Hoppes DOES however make several oils. I use the weatherguard one personally.
To clean I use the oil. I use solvent every few hundred rounds or for some reason (long term storage, suspected heavy fouling sooner then expected, etc) other then that I clean with oil and patches only. Solvent IMO if overused does more harm then good. If anything run one maybe two patches down the tube with solvent and then clear it out with plenty of oiled patches.
Hoppes DOES however make several oils. I use the weatherguard one personally.
To clean I use the oil. I use solvent every few hundred rounds or for some reason (long term storage, suspected heavy fouling sooner then expected, etc) other then that I clean with oil and patches only. Solvent IMO if overused does more harm then good. If anything run one maybe two patches down the tube with solvent and then clear it out with plenty of oiled patches.
pythonguy
Member
There is a "Hoppes No. 9 Bench Rest Lubricating Oil with Weatherguard", are you confusing that with the cleaner? I'm sure you're not but I just wanted to mention it.
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