Hornady .308 die sticking

[hobbeeman]

Well, the reloading store I buy my equipment from was out of RCBS and they recommended that I try the Hornady dies for my .308...I have cleaned them with Hoppes, I have lubed the cases with RCBS lube, Hornady lube, and graphite, (not all at the same time )but I am still getting stuck cases in the resizer.

Is this a common problem with Hornady? Do they need a breaking in period? Or a final polishing to ease the resizing process? I have never had this problem with my RCBS in .243 or 30-06.

Please give me some suggestions for making these dies work as I will not be able to take them back for over a week and I am tired of purchasing .308 new in the box.

 

[30Cal]

The leading cause of stuck cases Hornady OneShot. Get a better case lube--I like Imperial case wax.

 

[hobbeeman]

I just checked the bottom of my toolbox, and there it is... a can of Imperial sizing wax. I'll go try that right now...I'll report back in a little bit.

 

[hobbeeman]

Ok, the imperial is working better, now it has become evident that a great deal of sticking is from the inside sizing "bulb" above the decapping pin. I should NOT lube this part, correct? This will cause contamination of the inside of the cases right?

 

[86thecat]

Not sure what Hornady suggests but I use Imperial wax and just scrape my finger lightly across the case mouth to get some wax at the opening, it doesn't take much and it needs to be removed before charging. On new dies I flush them with brake cleaner and wipe the expander ball lightly with Imperial then use extra lube on the first few cases. Usually tumble sized cases in corn cob to remove any lube or it can be washed out with a degreaser or solvent. Some lubes claim to not react with powder but the Imperial works so well it's worth the extra step to make sure there's nothing left in the case.

 

[hobbeeman]

I had actually stopped tumbling my cases several months ago when I decided the only thing it did was make my cases pretty. I guess I will need to dig it out of storage tomorrow.
Thanks gentlemen, good night

 

[mrawesome22-250]

I use a q-tip and rub some Imperial Size Wax on the inside of the case mouth. Then the necks go through the "bulb" (expander button) slicker than snot. Then they all go into the tumbler.

 

[rcmodel]

Use a brass bore brush to knock out any powder fouling / tumbling rouge, etc. from inside the mouth.

I also often just use a little nylon brush to lightly clean & lube inside each case mouth . A spritz of One-Shot, or a roll on the RCBS case lube pad occasionally is all it takes to keep lube on the brush without overdoing it.


rcmodel

 

[30Cal]

You will need to lube the insides of the case neck just a tad. If the case squeals coming out of the die, then you're actually pulling the shoulder forward.

 

[Pumpkinheaver]

I also suggest lubing the inside of the case necks. Also can you take the expander out? I may need some light polishing.

 

[Bowfishrp]

+1 for inside lube too. I always tumble after resizing rifle rounds anyhow. I always trim them so when I do this I also clean any media out of the primer hole.

 

[hobbeeman]

If the case squeals coming out of the die, then you're actually pulling the shoulder forward.

What is the easiest way to check this? I can put my calipers to measure the distances, but the taper might be a little harder, perhaps? I guess that if the top and bottom of the shoulder measures correctly, then the incline should also be alright, correct?

 

[USSR]

You will need to lube the insides of the case neck just a tad. If the case squeals coming out of the die, then you're actually pulling the shoulder forward.

This is exactly why I don't buy dies where I have to use an expander ball. On the down stroke, you make a nice, straight neck, and on the up stroke, you drag that nasty expander ball thru it. All my dies (Redding) use bushings, and I size them to give the exact amount of neck tension that I want, without overworking the neck. Decapping is handled by a Lyman Universal Decapping die.

Don

 

[Steve C]

Buy a Forester or Frankfortcase neck lubricator from Midway for around $12 or some Imperial dry neck lubricator. You dip the case neck in mica for lubrication. The sizing ball will pull through much easier and the dry lube will not contaminate your powder.

 

[30Cal]

What is the easiest way to check this? I can put my calipers to measure the distances, but the taper might be a little harder, perhaps? I guess that if the top and bottom of the shoulder measures correctly, then the incline should also be alright, correct?

You'd need a gage to measure it--the RCBS Case Mic, or the Stoney Pt type gages which allow you to measure where that imaginary point on the shoulder is that the cartridge headpspaces from.

I'll save you the trouble though. If the expander ball makes noise or drags a lot, then the shoulder is moving when it's not supposed to. It shouldn't be more than about 0.005", but still...

 

[86thecat]

Hobbeeman, if you're loading for a bolt action have you considered a Lee collect neck sizing die?

 

[hobbeeman]

Hobbeeman, if you're loading for a bolt action have you considered a Lee collect neck sizing die?

What would the benefit be?

With lubrication inside the case, I am not having any more sticking. (I still need to trim the cases and tumble them)

You dip the case neck in mica for lubrication.

Is this ground mica? Like ground glass?

 

[86thecat]

hobbeeman,
The collect die needs no lube and neck sizes only so you get a simpler operation, maybe longer brass life, a little less case stretch and maybe better accuracy. Since your operation is working there may be very little benefit but most of us that reload seem to like to tinker anyway.