Hornady LnL AP Primer Seater

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I'm currently using (2) fender washers stacked on top of each other. (Added another one after I wore a decent-sized divot in the first one)
Didn't effect my timing. Must be a lot of lee-way in the manufacturing tolerances?
The area that the primer punch hits is just a casting and they will vary from mold to mold.
On my timing.
I just talked to Hornady's tech department about why my press won't push the shell plate past the ball detents. The technician told me that the timing system is not designed to push it past the detents in the shell plate, it is supposed to push it about 95-98% of the way and the detent balls are supposed to finish the cycle.
So mine is working as designed. I kind of suspected that but wanted to hear them say it.

I looked at mine really close this morning and I have 1/8" of free play on the star wheel before it turns the shell plate. If this were slop free It would push the plate past it's home position like 9mmepiphany's does. It's always had this amount of play in it. So if I want to tighten it up and get more travel I could replace what ever is used as a key or the star wheel's keyway is worn and I replace it.

It pushes it far enough the balls bring it the rest of the way smoothly and it runs good so I guess if it wears any more I know where to look at for the problem.
Hornady said the one in their office that they demo with works this way also.

They did try to talk me into sending it into them on their dime to check over and replace anything that is worn that could cause the problem with not enough plate travel, but I'm not sending it in. It's worked this way since it was new and now I have a better understanding of the timing system.
Well I have 1300 9mms to load so I better get at it.
It was educational for me.
Thanks
 
I just talked to Hornady's tech department about why my press won't push the shell plate past the ball detents. The technician told me that the timing system is not designed to push it past the detents in the shell plate, it is supposed to push it about 95-98% of the way and the detent balls are supposed to finish the cycle.
So mine is working as designed. I kind of suspected that but wanted to hear them say it.
Interesting, so mine is the one a bit out of spec.

I thought about it last night and suspected the same. If the pawls push pass the detent balls, it could cause priming to be off enough to not seat correctly. I did have that issue before I used the alignment tool to optimize timing.

I looked at mine really close this morning and I have 1/8" of free play on the star wheel before it turns the shell plate. If this were slop free It would push the plate past it's home position like 9mmepiphany's does. It's always had this amount of play in it. So if I want to tighten it up and get more travel I could replace what ever is used as a key or the star wheel's keyway is worn and I replace it.
Early on, I muscled my handle a bit and snapped the star wheel...Hornady CS sent out a replacement. It also weakened that pawl...which later failed...and they sent out a new set also

They did try to talk me into sending it into them on their dime to check over and replace anything that is worn that could cause the problem with not enough plate travel, but I'm not sending it in. It's worked this way since it was new and now I have a better understanding of the timing system.
Thanks for making the call. I now have a better understanding of the timing system also
 
That is why I prefer them to the Dillons I've worked with...650 & 750. The ability to make minor adjustments to optimize operation appeals to my problem solving background...the ease of making the adjustments appeal to my limited skill set

I had a SDB and 550 25 years ago. They are both expensive to do more than one caliber, so I switched to the LNL's.

I mainly load 38/357 so most of the time changing seating die and powder drop unit. Fast easy and just keep going.

Got the second one for 200 dollars; the guy wouldn't take the time to set it up and use it right. Of course it was the LNL not him; use that one to deprime brass.
 
I finished reloading the 1284 PMC 9mm cases yesterday on mine and it ran pretty well. I only had to clear the shell plate one time and had to clean my powder measure drum. It started sticking with the WSF powder I was using. Don't think it was the powder, just needed cleaned.
Any ways, this was educational for me.

Edit, loaded 877 PMC brass, ran out of bullets.
 
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