Walkalong,
The single detent ball type is for the Hornady Projector press. There is also, in addition to that, two generations of shellplates for the LnL press. Both Hornady LnL generations look very much alike, but different in the angle of the support for the case retaining spring. The newest type has much less support, so it allows the spring to drop away properly, as it should.
hornadylnl,
"Thanks for the input."
You're welcome
"I went back over the pawls and tweaked them just a hair. The shellplate was hitting the detents up and down but I tweaked it so it pops in a little smoother on the down stroke."
Make sure to remove your dies/LnL bushings and look down through the holds to make sure everything is centered over the primer ejection hole and the primer seater. Do this while rotating the shellplate. It helps to take a black magic marker and make a mark telling you where you're at on the rotation. Doing this a few times while observing closely should help you resolve any timing issues. Also, listen to the press. As you get the adjustment right, the press will make a distinctive click/clack sound, telling you the timing is right as well. I would do this with the case feeder, primer feed and other gadjets off the press and out of the loop, because this is the basis for all the other operations.
"I didn't notice it before but my v block was off just a little bit. I centered it with the shell plate."
Observation of details is your friend, with any sort of progressive machine.
"I need to dig my feeler gauges out and see how much clearance I have between the sub plate and the shell plate. It seems that there is too big of a gap between the shell plate and the sub plate. I'm guessing around 15 or 20 thousandths. There is enough that I can rock(that is probably too strong of a word) it up and down just a little bit. When I pull the shell plate, I can lift the threaded piece that the shell plate bolts to up and down a good bit. With it all the way up, it goes just above flush with the sub plate. I know there needs to be a small gap in the shell plate to sub plate, but not sure how much."
Do you have another shellplate to try? Perhaps one you bought from a different vendor at a different time? Changing shellplates can tell you a lot.
"I don't think I have my shellplate box any more. I got it from Wideners. I'll try putting on one of my other shell plates later today and see if that lowers the spring below the top of the subplate."
That's a good idea. If you got it from Widener's, I'd suspect the shellplate is the older one. Call Hornady and talk to Bob and confirm which one you have.
"Dave, I want to thank you for all of your input. I've read many of your responses to my posts and others. They are always informative and based on experience, not opinion. It's aggrevating when someone asks a question about what to buy and all you get is the same old brand war rhetoric. Thanks again for your time."
You're welcome, I try, but I'm getting to be a crotchety old man approaching fifty. But generally speaking, I prefer facts to emotion, though with this allergy medication I just got off of, I'm not nearly as patient as normal.
I suspect 1911user has the answer to your problem related to your shellplate. The rest is just some adjustment issues. I have a brand new .223 I just bought from Midway and am not seeing anything like you describe. Sounds like you have an older, perhaps badly machined shellplate. I'd call Hornady and talk to Bob.
In the meantime, use a shellplate you have that's working well and get your timing straightened out and fine tuned. Then, when the new one comes in, you shouldn't have a timing issue.
Regards,
Dave