Hornady powder measure baffles

[Highland Lofts]

I picked up a small box of reloading stuff and there was a Hornaday cast iron powder measure body for rifle.
It was missing the powder tube.
The powder tube cap.
The nut that holds it into the powder measure stand.
The handle.
And the powder tube baffle.

I ordered all the parts from Hornaday and it all came to $41.48.
The Hornaday powder measures that I have has the steel powder baffle.

Hornaday sent me two plastic powder baffles.


Any one have these plastic powder baffles?

Do they work just as good as the steel baffle?

 

[Bcwitt]

I made a baffle from a plastic coffee can lid. Anything that takes most of the weight & allows the powder to "drain" will work fine.

 

[cfullgraf]

Interesting design. They ought to work fine once they get coated with the graphite that is used to coat powder. They may have some static electric issues just like the powder measure reservoir until then.

Baffles prevent the main column of powder in the reservoir to bear directly on the metering cavity. They keep a consistent powder column above the metering cavity tohelp make more uniform powder throws.

 

[jmorris]

I have made them from aluminum for “open tube” measures but the Dillon’s have them that are integral with the tube and I haven’t seen an issue due to them not being metal.

 

[Otto]

I like the Dram Worx powder hopper. It's made from Pyrex glass, includes a machined aluminum cap and a metal baffle.
It's more expensive than plastic but that's to be expected. $55

 

[rdnktrkr]

When using anything plastic for reloading I usually wipe it down good with a used dryer sheet to help with static electricity, then I cut them up and put them in my vibratory cleaner to help with dust

 

[Highland Lofts]

I keep a box of static free dryer sheet up in my reloading room just to wipe things down.
Every once in a while I get static and wipe things down
I buy a lot of used reloading equipment and was looking through another box of stuff I bought and found another Hornady cast iron powder measure body missing a few pieces. It too has the rifle rotor, next month I'll pick up a hopper & cap for it and replace the rifle rotor with a pistol rotor.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I like the Dram Worx powder hopper. It's made from Pyrex glass, includes a machined aluminum cap and a metal baffle.

That is what I use also. The Dram Worx hoppers have replaced all my plastic ones

 

[lordpaxman]

Those new plastic baffles are interesting. They look like they provide more flow through in the center of the column than the steel bent baffle. Let us know how they work? I’d have thought at one time plastic would be cheaper and easier to make, but in this day and age with the price of things, who knows?

 

[johnjohn]

I like the idea of the glass reservoirs but "old clumsy" would probably break it trying to install it.

 

[Highland Lofts]

I have discolored one of my plastic tunes by leaving g powder in it for to long.
I can't remember what kind of powder it was..

Next time I do any reloading I'll try one of these new plastic baffles and report on it.

 

[Rule3]

Here you go. Make your own for whatever size hopper you have.
Use Aluminum

 

[PWC]

Here you go. Make your own for whatever size hopper you have.
Use Aluminum

I've used Uncle Nick's powder baffles in my Lyman 55 for several years. They werk great. This site allows you to find the optimun for your situation, and use soda can material.

 

[9mmepiphany]

I like the idea of the glass reservoirs but "old clumsy" would probably break it trying to install it.

FWIW: The Pyrex is pretty tough and not fragile. It's what they make lab beakers out of

The part that goes into the powder measure body is metal and threaded. Once you get the threads started, it isn't going to "slip off." If you're concerned, I'd lay the hopper on it's side, on a towel, on a table and screw the powder measure onto it