soo im a new shooter.. ive got a smith and wesson model 36 snub nose and honestly i dont know what to think.. but i personally feel that my aim is just not so good. I have shot guns once or twice before as a kid and i was shooting pretty tight groups.. but now i feel like im all over the place. at 7 yards i was shooting 8" groups.. i dont know what yall think is a decent grouping but i feel like thats not so good.. i need to know what experienced people think because i just have no clue..
Horrible Aim?
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bobelk99
Member
What position/rest gives the 8"?
If you are shooting standing unsupported, the 8" is not substandard. It will get some better. Just be positive.
I own a 36, and I don't know if I can do 8" with it. I shoot maybe 3k a year (for 40 year or so), so I guess I am not a newbie
. But I still have a lot to learn.
Just hang in there. If you want to shoot for groups, buy a good 22 and practice, practice, practice.
If you are shooting standing unsupported, the 8" is not substandard. It will get some better. Just be positive.
I own a 36, and I don't know if I can do 8" with it. I shoot maybe 3k a year (for 40 year or so), so I guess I am not a newbie
. But I still have a lot to learn.Just hang in there. If you want to shoot for groups, buy a good 22 and practice, practice, practice.
MikeJackmin
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A snub is not the easiest gun to shoot.
Careful dryfire practice - done right - will help a lot. Leave one or two chambers empty when you are shooting at the range to detect if you are flinching.
Keep the sights on target as the hammer falls and the hits will follow.
Careful dryfire practice - done right - will help a lot. Leave one or two chambers empty when you are shooting at the range to detect if you are flinching.
Keep the sights on target as the hammer falls and the hits will follow.
Highcaliber
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On a "Bill Drill" if you're getting 6 shots inside an 8" circle as fast as you can manipulate the trigger / Jerry Miculek Style you're in the ball park. Push the speed envelope.
If you get 10% of those shots outside 8" then slow down a bit. This will allow you some feedback in your speed vs accuracy training with your pistol.
Slower aimed fire should be inside 4" with your double action mode snubbie.
Sqeeeeeeeze the trigger straight back with steady, fast and smoooth determination.
If you get 10% of those shots outside 8" then slow down a bit. This will allow you some feedback in your speed vs accuracy training with your pistol.
Slower aimed fire should be inside 4" with your double action mode snubbie.
Sqeeeeeeeze the trigger straight back with steady, fast and smoooth determination.
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Bullnettles
Member
I had shot my 442 (1 3/4" barrel I think) maybe twice before this past Saturday and my first 5 shots were all over the place. I calmed down and did better, but I agree with the above posters, grab a 22 and dry-fire practice with the snub. GET SNAPCAPS OR SPENT SHELLS!!! No one likes a busted pistol
W.E.G.
Member
Two cases of ammo over a 12 month period, and get back to us with your status.
horrible aim??................naw. youre normal.
i use an 8 X 11 sheet of paper for a target at about 25 feet away. with my S&W 649 i practice point shooting..................DAO, single handed grip, left and right hand equally. i put 5 rounds through the target and i am happy.
that effort will get the job done, when the time comes.
just go out and practice with your snub nose and have fun.
i use an 8 X 11 sheet of paper for a target at about 25 feet away. with my S&W 649 i practice point shooting..................DAO, single handed grip, left and right hand equally. i put 5 rounds through the target and i am happy.
that effort will get the job done, when the time comes.
just go out and practice with your snub nose and have fun.
Well...an S&W Model 36 is a mite small.
I carried one for 20 years every day, and mine had a shortened even smaller Grip, and a round 'Bird's Head' one at that.
I have medium large Hands.
Groups at ten yards really ought to be about like a Silver Dollar...but, you have to find a way to hold the darned thing to allow it, and, to recover and be in good shape for the next round.
This assumes also, shooting Double Action only, as one would if in a Rhuebarb.
The Revolver is glad to do it...the Revolver would be glad to make ten yard groups one could cover with a 25 Cent piece, or even a Nickle, for that matter.
The hold or grip one has, or elects, is key.
I'd say, just experiment, try different versions of Hold.
If you prefer a two hand hold, work with that.
I saw some videos on You Tube a while ago which were very good...famous Shooter fellow, all about different ways of two-hand hold or grip, for different Frame Size Revolvers.
Maybe someone will remember his name to point you to the Videos.
I'd go years not firing a single round out of anything, have to re-qualify, and one handed, Groups would be about like a Tea Cup for 5, 10, and 15 yard rapid fire combined.
But without a right grip, they would have been terrible.
Should have been better, but, they were what they were.
A Model 10 Snubby, for a person of medium size Hands, is a far more comfortable and natural and easier to be accurate with Revolver, than a Model 36...and is really only a little larger, but, just enough larger to make a lot of difference comfort and ease and good-hold wise.
I carried one for 20 years every day, and mine had a shortened even smaller Grip, and a round 'Bird's Head' one at that.
I have medium large Hands.
Groups at ten yards really ought to be about like a Silver Dollar...but, you have to find a way to hold the darned thing to allow it, and, to recover and be in good shape for the next round.
This assumes also, shooting Double Action only, as one would if in a Rhuebarb.
The Revolver is glad to do it...the Revolver would be glad to make ten yard groups one could cover with a 25 Cent piece, or even a Nickle, for that matter.
The hold or grip one has, or elects, is key.
I'd say, just experiment, try different versions of Hold.
If you prefer a two hand hold, work with that.
I saw some videos on You Tube a while ago which were very good...famous Shooter fellow, all about different ways of two-hand hold or grip, for different Frame Size Revolvers.
Maybe someone will remember his name to point you to the Videos.
I'd go years not firing a single round out of anything, have to re-qualify, and one handed, Groups would be about like a Tea Cup for 5, 10, and 15 yard rapid fire combined.
But without a right grip, they would have been terrible.
Should have been better, but, they were what they were.
A Model 10 Snubby, for a person of medium size Hands, is a far more comfortable and natural and easier to be accurate with Revolver, than a Model 36...and is really only a little larger, but, just enough larger to make a lot of difference comfort and ease and good-hold wise.
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dashootist
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There is a video of Bob Munden shooting a 12" target at 200 yards with a 38spl snubbie S&W J frame. He hit the target 3 out of 3.
there was another thread just the other day about the ability to truly control a gun and a member posted 5 shots out of a J-frame (i think it was a 642) inside 5" at 5 yards in < 2 sec...this is from the holster, reacting to a signal.
i will add that M-36 isn't a great gun to learn to shoot with, between the short trigger stroke and the coil-spring mainspring, you need pretty good trigger control to even start with.
i took a new shooter out once and had them putting shots into a 3" group, at 7 yards, within about an hour and 20 rounds. granted this was at a pace of about 1 shot per sec, it was an indoor range, and they were shooting a box stock Glock G19...it's all about trigger control
i will add that M-36 isn't a great gun to learn to shoot with, between the short trigger stroke and the coil-spring mainspring, you need pretty good trigger control to even start with.
i took a new shooter out once and had them putting shots into a 3" group, at 7 yards, within about an hour and 20 rounds. granted this was at a pace of about 1 shot per sec, it was an indoor range, and they were shooting a box stock Glock G19...it's all about trigger control
rainbowbob
Member
Here is a most excellent video by Jerry Michulek that includes a specific grip for the S&W J-frame (e.g., your M 36, M 40, 642, etc).
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/shooting-usa/jerry-miculek-revolver-grip
And this one by Tom Gresham (that I haven't watched yet).
http://www.myoutdoortv.com/shooting/nssf-gun-talk-tips/hand-gun-grip
I carry the M 36 or the M 40 every day. They both have the original walnut stocks with Tyler T-Grips added.
http://www.t-grips.com/
These provide a fuller grip, save your knuckle, and reduce the tendency to flip around in your hand.
The J-frame is a defensive firearm, not a bulls-eye shooter. As other have said, a consistent 8" inch group at 7-10 yards ain't so bad and will usually get the job done. Try silhouette targets and keep 'em in the nine and ten rings.
Good luck!
Strength training, squeezing a tennis ball, things that develop grip power will also help. So much of accuracy comes down to grip and trigger pull. The pressure on the grip should be forward and back, with little from the sides. The trigger pull should be straight back, with a smooth pull that starts before sight picture and breaks just as the sights fall into the X-spot. Add stance and breath control mechanics and there's plenty to work on, but as shown here, a snubbie can be accurate out to 100 yrds.
KodiakBeer
member
Buy a cheap 22 and shoot, shoot, shoot. When you're a good shooter, pick up the snubbie again.
robhof
Member
Get some wadcutters; they are very accurate at relatively close range and easy on the hands.
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