Hourglass shaped cases after reloading

[jmorris]

I have a similar problem.... But first I have a couple questions. Do you need an hour glass shape to ensure that the case has a good grip on the bullet? MFGs don't seem to think so because I've never seen a production bullet showing the hourglass. To resolve this, would you need to have a case sizer designed specifically for your bullet diameter?

No you don't need it to be hour glass shaped to hold the bullet. You don't need a special die just back the die out a little bit and the issue will go away. This is where a casegauge is nice to have. All you need is the die down far enough to resize the case to factory specs you have gone beyond or under factory specs when you get the coke bottle effect.

 

[1SOW]

The coke-bottle shape is perfectly normal in 9mm. Sized, the case mouth will be less than .380. The 'taper crimp' is typically .377-.378"
.As said above bullet diameters .355, .356 and some even slightly wider will show that shape. Deeper seating depths/smaller bullets will show less at the bullet base due to the case taper..

 

[Cloudwraith]

No you don't need it to be hour glass shaped to hold the bullet. You don't need a special die just back the die out a little bit and the issue will go away. This is where a casegauge is nice to have. All you need is the die down far enough to resize the case to factory specs you have gone beyond or under factory specs when you get the coke bottle effect.

Does everyone agree with this? If the carbide ring is at the bottom of the die then backing the die out will just size the case less further down but still undersize it for the length of the case it does size correct?

Lee directions specifically state to adjust the sizing die until it touches the shell holder.

 

[Deavis]

With pistol brass you run the risk of not sizing the base enough if you back the die out, particularly if you are picking up range brass. This would be less noticeable in 9mm (in my experience) and the most noticeable in 45ACP and 40S&W. For rifle, that advice is spot on but for pistol, eh... it doesn't matter, I wouldn't make a mountain out of a molehill. Touch the shellholder with the die and move on with your reloading but if it bothers you, buy a steel die or a dual ring carbide die from Redding.

http://www.redding-reloading.com/in...nt&view=article&id=124:dual-ring-carbide-dies

 

[Krogen]

This is interesting. I don't get hourglass-shaped 9mm cases. My RCBS 9mm dies have a carbide ring that's as long as the 9mm case. They date from 1984 and were insanely expensive at that time - much more than dies for non-tapered cases. I assumed or perhaps read somewhere that the cost was because of the long, tapered carbide ring. Apparently, manufacturers have gone with a short ring in 9mm dies just like they use in non-tapered cases. That might explain why RCBS's 44 Mag and 9mm dies are priced the same. It may also explain why 30 Carbine carbide dies are still more expensive.

 

[USSR]

If the carbide ring is at the bottom of the die then backing the die out will just size the case less further down but still undersize it for the length of the case it does size correct?

You can do this, particularly with revolver cartridges. What you are doing is akin to neck sizing (only sizing the portion of the case that holds the bullet). However, as mentioned previously, you may run into problems with autoloading cartridges, particularly cases that have been fired in another pistol.

Don