How can my S&W 686 be improved?

[4thHorseman]

I would certainly try the Wolff springs that Ala Dan suggested.
While the parts are out, I would use a very very fine grit stone or 600 grit sand paper on all moving parts.
I don't mean to over simplify things, so if I do insult your intellgence please forgive me.
I'm sure there are tapes as suggested that are good.
Basically all the parts that come out to replace the springs, polish up as much as you can. Do not try to remove any metal, but of course a small amount will be polished away. Remove all sharp edges. The sliding bar that the return spring goes into should be polished on all three sides and the sharp edges also removed.
If you have another S&W revolver you may use as an example for reassembly. If not try a picture of it when the side plate is removed.
Take you time and do not be rushed. Lay all the pieces out in order of disassembly so they can easily be reassembled when the time is at hand.
I use a drill bit to push on the return spring to seat it in. Tape off the sharp pointed side of the bit so you can easily push on the spring to seat it in the frame and it won't cut your hand. I didn't buy the tool and the bit just a tad smaller than the spring diameter works good.
The side plate can sometimes (and should be) removed by tapping on the back side of the frame with a soft mallet after the screws are out. Take note of what screws come out of what holes. They are different. I know I will be hammered for this, but there has been times where tapping on the back of the frame would not remove the side plate. Here it comes guys.....I use a tooth brush handle because it is soft, and GENTLY pry just a tad between the side plate and the frame. Not much, just enough to loosen it so a tap will allow it to come out. Sometimes the side plates are so tight, this is the only way for me to get it off. Note that there is a lip on the top of the plate that will slide under the frame just a bit. There is a hammer block that may come out also. No problem, it's normal.
It sounds tough, but really it is quite easy. I would try it nice and slow, you will be surprised at what you can do. Something else, afterwards, you can do it to all you revolvers.
There are excellent books on the market also that walk you through it.
I know how you feel. The first time I did it, I was also hesitant. You will be fine. And look at all the help you will get here if you need it. Good luck.

 

[VaughnT]

Well, I have a 686-5. And more importantly, I have carried it at work for the last four plus years. In that time, I've seen a few things that I will have to change.

From a competition standpoint, you really can't beat this gun. I had the chance to dryfire a Colt Trooper MkIII the other day and I was honestly surprised at how much better it was for me. The trigger stroke was smoother, maybe lighter, and the front sight never moved off of the target spot ten yards distant. Aside from a better trigger, it was outfitted with a set of Pachymar grips that extended beyond the backstrap by about .5". This seemed to put my hand at just the right distance from the trigger and I was able to put just the fingerpad on the trigger. Of course, grips are very individual, but it only goes to reinforce just how important it is to experiment with different grips.

Back to the 686....

First, I've done countless presentations from the holster and the leather has polished the top of the front sight to a mirror shine. The red ramp insert is not easily picked up by my eye in low light situations. Because of these factors, I would have the sight replaced with a tritium-equipped combat sight. This is a fighting gun, not a hunting/bullseye pistol.

Second, the rear sight is very fragile. I'm all for adjustable sights, but that exposed leaf is too flimsy. We have about 25 of these models in our weapons locker and all of them show significant damage to the leaf from impacting on doorjambs and the like. Might not matter on a CCW that's protected by a jacket, but you have to ask yourself if you really need the ability to adjust the sights if you're not going to roll your own ammo. I've never experienced a good deal of variation in POA/POI and have decided that a C&S Fixed Sight, tritium-equipped, is the answer for me. Again, this is a fighting weapon, not a hunting/bullseye pistol.

Thirdly, the action could stand to be smoothed. I've shot about 10000 rounds through this weapon and qualified with it in two states. I've compared the trigger to brand-new pistols and it is definitely smoother than when first bought. All I would ask is to have a competent smith go over it, replacing worn parts and insuring that it is working properly. If he could smooth it out further, maybe by lightening it a few pounds in the double-action mode, I wouldn't mind but don't feel it's entirely necessary.

Fourth, the grips might have to go. I was really impressed with those Pachy grips on the Colt Trooper, even though they look very ugly. If the Length of Pull is too short for me, that could explain why there's so much wobble when I do double-action dryfire.

I agree with the recommendation on the Safariland Comp II speedloaders. I have one HKS and two Comp I loaders. The Comp II loaders are head and shoulders above either of the former designs. Wouldn't mind trying a jetfire loader......