how do i build a 357 shot shell

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Hawken50

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hello all. i'm looking to load some shot shells for my 357 blackhawk. i can't find and how to's or powder charge data. i did a forum search and got zero hits. can sombody help me? they'll just be for walks in the woods during squirrel season. thanks
 
Buy some Speer shot capsules, use appropriate charge for weight. Fast powder is best. Better: Speer makes loaded shotshells... Good to about 12-15 feet... :scrutiny:

Tom
 
Since they're not something you're going to shoot in volume (and testing homemade ones will probably cost you more in components than buying the premade ones), you're better off with Speer's version. I know from experience the 38special version will take the head off a 4' rattlesnake at 5 feet.

I've made them part of my Spring, Summer, and Fall carry load for the past 5 years. I still have the same box I started with.

Chris
 
The Speer loading manual has a section on building shotshells using Speer shot capsules. I recommend using the smallest shot you can get a hold of, or as Swifter suggested, buy Speer factory loaded shotshells. I think the factory one's are loaded with #12 shot. At any rate, it's smaller than the #8 shot, which is the smallest I've ever been able to find. Using #8 shot, I've never been able to get a dense enough pattern, even with a .44, to be good for anything at ranges beyond 6 or 8 feet.
One more thing - I once thought I'd check the pattern of a .357 shotshell by shooting at the bottom of a cut down pine tree about 10 feet away. Big, stupid mistake! Those pellets bounced right back and peppered me good. :eek: Luckely, I was wearing my safety glasses. Don't shoot at a flat surface with shotshells - even if it's as soft as the bottom of a cut down pine tree.
 
Here is a short how to if you don't want to use the Speer capsules.

Use a sharpened case to cut some wads. Deprime the case first so you can push the wads out. I use corrugated cardboard for the over powder wad and for the over shot wad I use a thin cardboard such as you find on the back of a writing tablet. I use the powder charges listed by Speer, reasoning that the shot weight will be close and the cardboard wads will not seal anywhere near as well as the plastic, giving a safety margin. But this is from my testing, not published data, so double check until you are satisfied it is safe enough for you. The rest is straight forward, charge the case, seat the wad using a dowel, fill with the smallest shot you can get, and crimp the top wad in place.

"Fine tuning" would be to get better patterns, stiffer wads, a little more or less velocity, but you are not going for power here so don't pour in more powder until something bad happens. And watch out for wads stuck in the barrel, especially if the load bloops instead of pops. I haven't tried it but Mike Venturio (sp?) recommeds testing shot loads on potatos. He said that if the load tears up a spud, it will work on snakes.

Last thing, if you are just experimenting, it's cheaper to cut up a couple shotgun shells than to by 25 pounds of shot.
 
I've found the loaded ammo to be very expensive, picked up 50 empty shot capsules for under $5. I had a bag of #9 shot so they're cheap and easy to make. What powder do you want to use? I'll look the load data in my Speer manual and post it.
 
If you insist on loading shotshells for a rifled barrel, use the shot capsules and load for the weight you get. Shot, out of a rifled barrel with the capsules or not, flies in a spiral creating big holes in the pattern. For tree rats, you'd be better served with a single shot .410. Say an H&R Topper from Marlin.
 
I agree with Quantrill. Use a pair of properly-sized gas checks.

John Taffin has an article on making revolver shotshell loads using gas checks in a recent Handloader magazine. I'll have to dig it out and post it here.
 
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