How do I tell if my M1 is milled or stamped?

[_Madrugada_]

Hey guys, I just got an M1 from the CMP, and she's mighty fine, and I'm just trying to learn as much about the rifle as I can. I've looked up the serial number and stuff, but I would like to know if the metal is milled or stamped, and what the difference is between the two, thanks.

It's a service grade HRA that I believe was made in April of 1954, here are some pictures.

 

[USSR]

You have a stamped trigger guard that is correct for your postwar H&R.

Don

 

[Dreamcast270mhz]

AFAIK Garands were never stamped and always milled, but something tells me I'm not totally correct. A google tells me that some had Milled trigger guards and stamped but I wouldn't be able to tell

 

[_Madrugada_]

Thanks for the reply. That seems to be the consensus from what I have gathered as well.

 

[Vaarok]

Milled means they took a block of metal and used a grinder to cut it into the shape they wanted.

Stamped means they took a strip of metal and mashed it into the shape they wanted.

No practical difference, they're built to the same ruggedness, but some people get fussy and need to say one is better than the other.

The practical reasoning behind this change was that it was far easier, cheaper, and faster to reshape pieces cut from rolls of sheetmetal than it was to forge and grind pieces into the needed shape.

 

[Trebor]

That's a nice looking M-1 with great wood. Is that one of the new production stocks the CMP uses on some rifles or did you clean up a GI stock to make it look that nice?

All CMP M-1 Garands are USGI rifles with forged and machined receivers.

In WWII production many small parts, such as the trigger guard, were milled.

In later production some of these parts were changed to stamped parts. Your rifle has a stamped trigger guard. That is correct for a 1950's rifle, btw, but I can't tell if your specific trigger guard was made by HRA or the correct subcontractor for HRA.

I wrote some articles on the M-1 Garand for new owners. You might find them helpful.

Tips and Tricks for the M-1 Garand

M-1 Garand tips and tricks - Part 2: Cleaning, lubrication, ammo, and spare parts

M-1 Garand tips and tricks - Part 3 - Malfunctions and accuracy improvements

 

[dmazur]

There may be other internal parts that are also milled vs. stamped, but the trigger guard is the one part I'm aware of with that distinction.

As already noted, it was cheaper to manufacture and apparently didn't affect the function so they went with the design changes.

I have read that the stamped trigger guard is easier to "re-tension" by bending it carefully, if you have one that tends to unlatch itself. This is based on the latch points still having sharp edges, of course. If the latch points are all worn out, re-tensioning the trigger guard probably won't help much.

The milled trigger guards are more difficult to bend without breaking, so sometimes they are replaced if they won't latch correctly. I believe they have a hole at the rear instead of a bend, originally designed for insertion of a cleaning rod section to assist in takedown.

Lots of Garand experts here, so this bit of trivia may be only the start...

 

[1KPerDay]

Here's a milled one for comparison.

 

[Orlando]

There are several differnt types of stamped trigger guards. The earliest (1944) stamped guards with a machined/milled tab to latch the guard , later where simply bent tab,after this was a milled hook with a piece brazed in the safety area of the guard

 

[Onmilo]

Other stamped parts of note can be the bullet guide, Operating rod spring guide, and the follower arms can be stamped or forged then assembled.
The rear sight retainer plate has always been a stamping.
The bullet guide/op rod catch retaining pin can be a stamping or a forged part too.

I have seen some M1 Garands with stamped rear sling slots, these are actually slots, not swivels, as they don't actually 'swivel'.