Quack
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^^^ 
How Do "You" Break In A Factory New Autoloader
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Hello friends and neighbors // Yep no break in required, I'm new to semi-autos and have a lot to learn.
I was going to edit OP with FTF/FTE info but the CZ75B ran through all 5 different kinds of ammo in 3 different types of mags without a slip.
I ended up striping and cleaning removing all grease, mine and theirs, then oiled the slide using Hoppes #9 lube oil ( a little runny).
Even Hoppes solvent did not remove the brown stain, we will see what happens after the next cleaning.
I am very pleased with the trigger pull and overall ergonomics, gripping, aiming,firing feel natural.
Recoil is minimal compared to the CZ2075RAMI.
I had no problem with continuous fire through each mag.
Here are some pics:
Notice the differences in the grooves on the side of the mags and the slight differences in the "shoulders" also (rear view). Neither of these differences effected performance.
Thanks for all of the positive replies.
Buying new is as new to me as full sized semiautos.
I think I'll skip the salt water, sand, buryed in the swamp for 2 years, drop from a building test with someone elses, firearm till next year.
I was going to edit OP with FTF/FTE info but the CZ75B ran through all 5 different kinds of ammo in 3 different types of mags without a slip.
I ended up striping and cleaning removing all grease, mine and theirs, then oiled the slide using Hoppes #9 lube oil ( a little runny).
Even Hoppes solvent did not remove the brown stain, we will see what happens after the next cleaning.
I am very pleased with the trigger pull and overall ergonomics, gripping, aiming,firing feel natural.
Recoil is minimal compared to the CZ2075RAMI.
I had no problem with continuous fire through each mag.
Here are some pics:
Notice the differences in the grooves on the side of the mags and the slight differences in the "shoulders" also (rear view). Neither of these differences effected performance.
Thanks for all of the positive replies.
Buying new is as new to me as full sized semiautos.
I think I'll skip the salt water, sand, buryed in the swamp for 2 years, drop from a building test with someone elses, firearm till next year.
content
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First range visit CZ75B
Hello friends and neighbors // CZ75B Range pics: Two handed standing ( Isosceles ) continuous, steady fire through mag.
On right from 25 feet:
Mag 1 COM
Mag 2 Head
On left from 50 feet:
Mag 3 COM
Mag 4 Head
IMHO the CZ75B is:
More fun than the RAMI, smoother trigger than my Aug. 1977 Ruger Security Six, slimmer than a Glock or a S&W M&P, balanced better than my dads Springfield Armory XD .40, less expensive than a KimberColtDanWesson....I'm very satisfied. YMMV
Thanks again for the helpful suggestions from my fellow THR members.
Hello friends and neighbors // CZ75B Range pics: Two handed standing ( Isosceles ) continuous, steady fire through mag.
On right from 25 feet:
Mag 1 COM
Mag 2 Head
On left from 50 feet:
Mag 3 COM
Mag 4 Head
IMHO the CZ75B is:
More fun than the RAMI, smoother trigger than my Aug. 1977 Ruger Security Six, slimmer than a Glock or a S&W M&P, balanced better than my dads Springfield Armory XD .40, less expensive than a KimberColtDanWesson....I'm very satisfied. YMMV
Thanks again for the helpful suggestions from my fellow THR members.
content
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Hello friends and neighbors // After cleaning I looked over the slide ,frame and barrel with a magnifier.
Slight wear inside of the slide from the barrel assembly removing some of the brown stain. No wear visible on the frame. I believe the brown stain is primer overspray from the pattern/placement.
I suppose the consensus is disassemble-inspect-clean-lube-reassemble-shoot-repeat. Using the chemicals of your choosing.(Many ideas here) I will try a few products posted that sound interesting.
**NOTE-- The cleaning brush sent with a CZ75B is not long enough for all the bristles to go completely through the barrel. Forcing you to double them(bend them backwards) in side the barrel to pull the brush out. The Factory book recommends using a brush long enough to avoid doing this.
Slight wear inside of the slide from the barrel assembly removing some of the brown stain. No wear visible on the frame. I believe the brown stain is primer overspray from the pattern/placement.
I suppose the consensus is disassemble-inspect-clean-lube-reassemble-shoot-repeat. Using the chemicals of your choosing.(Many ideas here) I will try a few products posted that sound interesting.
**NOTE-- The cleaning brush sent with a CZ75B is not long enough for all the bristles to go completely through the barrel. Forcing you to double them(bend them backwards) in side the barrel to pull the brush out. The Factory book recommends using a brush long enough to avoid doing this.
SwampWolf
Member
Well, at least a new brush is cheap enough. The one I got with my CZ was too short also. After reading what you read in their manual, it makes you wonder if they're getting their accessories from Auto Zone. 
Hangingrock
Member
Yes-Yes-Yes!!!!!!
sigsteve
Member
Don't use white lithium grease. Not a suitable choice for a gun lube.
Arthur2001
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- Nov 8, 2009
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Never dry fire it ...
searcher451
Member
Theoretically, no break-in period should be required for any modern firearm; you should be able to take it out of the box and feel 100% confident that it'll work, first time and ever time, and provide you and your family with protection and security. (If you buy a handgun that you don't feel that way about, you've purchased the wrong handgun.)
That having been said, I've always felt far better about a handgun that's been vetted with at least 500 rounds through it -- a combination of FMJ and JHP -- without mishap or happenstance or hiccup. If the handgun you purchase can't deliver that kind of performance, my recommendation is to find one that can.
That having been said, I've always felt far better about a handgun that's been vetted with at least 500 rounds through it -- a combination of FMJ and JHP -- without mishap or happenstance or hiccup. If the handgun you purchase can't deliver that kind of performance, my recommendation is to find one that can.
Zerodefect
member
1911's and Kahrs have alot of machine tool lines on the barrel. It takes some use to wear those down. You can see the barrel become polished looking from shooting.
My Kahr PM9 and P380 loosened up alot after 300 rounds and became much smoother. I'd call that a break in period.
My Kimber needed a little help. Better mags, ramp polish, 2 pound heavier recoil spring. But It's really smooth and reliable now. After 300 rounds breakin and the above tweaks it hasn't failed in 2000+ rounds.
I use federal fmj for plinking and rem goldensaber for defense.
My Kahr PM9 and P380 loosened up alot after 300 rounds and became much smoother. I'd call that a break in period.
My Kimber needed a little help. Better mags, ramp polish, 2 pound heavier recoil spring. But It's really smooth and reliable now. After 300 rounds breakin and the above tweaks it hasn't failed in 2000+ rounds.
I use federal fmj for plinking and rem goldensaber for defense.
harmon rabb
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- Mar 14, 2009
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that's exactly what i did with my g27. i broke it in by taking it out of the box, loading the mags, and taking it to the range
Zerodefect
member
Glocks have a cold hammer forged barrel. It's allready smooth with no machining marks to need smoothed out. Ramp is smoother than polished steel right out of the box.
It also has very tiny frame rails and the slide is forged and pretty smooth.
So no breakin is needed for Glocks. Only testing before you CCw them..
It also has very tiny frame rails and the slide is forged and pretty smooth.
So no breakin is needed for Glocks. Only testing before you CCw them..
OP didn't mention referencing the owner's manual as part of his pre-shooting regimen. Guess I'm old school but I still peruse the manual cover to cover before I launch the first bullet from a new gun, under the theory that the manufacturer knows a bit more about it than I do.
If the manual says, for example, to first clean it and remove preservative and oil from the bore and other parts that's what I do. Never went wrong using that approach.
If the manual says, for example, to first clean it and remove preservative and oil from the bore and other parts that's what I do. Never went wrong using that approach.
content
Member
Hello friends and neighbors // I do peruse the english section of the manual. I can't read them cover to cover though.
There is not a "before firing or breaking in" section in the manual. Nor does it discuss ammo. The manual says to clean the barrel if not fired much. To clean gun if it gets wet...no specifics.
I'm asking how "you" break in a factory new autoloader to tap the mind pool of life long shooters here. Mainly because I'm new to autoloaders and usually purchase used revolvers,shotguns and rifles.
Buying used I always disassemble and clean just to check everything out. Anything I'm unsure of I ask a gunsmith or two, sometimes they have varying opinons. With autoloaders there is a lot I'm unsure of so I bought new.
Buying New is new to me, I have the "if its not broke don't fix it" mentality. Disassembly before shooting figures into the equation if there are problems.
Especially if I did the disassembly. Some here say shoot, shoot shoot some say clean, lube then shoot. Folks are different and I appreciate their input. I learn from them all.
///Another range visit (no FTF/FTE or other problems) and another cleaning. This time I smoothed the rough rear edge of the barrel assembly while I had it out. The barrel barely gets dirty with the Federal red box 180gr.FMJ.
Everything seems to be wearing evenly No gouging or shavings, the Hoppes #9 lube oil is working fine just a little runny. After I use this bottle I'll try something different.
Thanks for all the tips and responses. Lots of food for thought///Thanks for getting me off the white lit. grease oil does make sense.
There is not a "before firing or breaking in" section in the manual. Nor does it discuss ammo. The manual says to clean the barrel if not fired much. To clean gun if it gets wet...no specifics.
I'm asking how "you" break in a factory new autoloader to tap the mind pool of life long shooters here. Mainly because I'm new to autoloaders and usually purchase used revolvers,shotguns and rifles.
Buying used I always disassemble and clean just to check everything out. Anything I'm unsure of I ask a gunsmith or two, sometimes they have varying opinons. With autoloaders there is a lot I'm unsure of so I bought new.
Buying New is new to me, I have the "if its not broke don't fix it" mentality. Disassembly before shooting figures into the equation if there are problems.
Especially if I did the disassembly. Some here say shoot, shoot shoot some say clean, lube then shoot. Folks are different and I appreciate their input. I learn from them all.
///Another range visit (no FTF/FTE or other problems) and another cleaning. This time I smoothed the rough rear edge of the barrel assembly while I had it out. The barrel barely gets dirty with the Federal red box 180gr.FMJ.
Everything seems to be wearing evenly
No gouging or shavings, the Hoppes #9 lube oil is working fine just a little runny. After I use this bottle I'll try something different. Thanks for all the tips and responses. Lots of food for thought///Thanks for getting me off the white lit. grease oil does make sense.
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