How do you remove primer crimps on mil brass?

[gfanikf]

Pictures won't help in determining if you have swaged the primer pocket correctly. The easiest way is to try seating a primer. If you haven't removed enough of the crimp, you will have difficulty in seating the primer. If you have over-swaged, the primer will seat with too little resistance. Its a "feel" operation.

Well, that alone tells me I did the crimped ones wrong last time. The first time I did some priming was on non crimped brass (and even though there is a post I made when I didn't push hard enough the first time I primed floating around lol) there was a marked difference in the two experiences. I might also try using the Lee Ram Prime for once, but the Lee XR, when not having annoying issues with primers loading, is pretty easy. I've been told thought you get a better feel when using a non ram primer FWIW.

 

[moxie]

Yup! Go with Lee Autoprime.

 

[poco loco]

have you actually tried seating a primer in your swaged brass?

That will answer all your questions on it, there should be firm pressure required but it should not be hard to prime, use the hand primer rather than the press mount as the press has so much leverage anything feels easy, even crushing one sideways....

I use an ancient Herters swaging die that is probably older than I am and it works like a champ. I can not see the difference as my eyes are not calibrated to the nearest thousandth but the feel tells the story....Plus you only have to do it once in the life of the cartridge and I load soft and only bolt guns so mine last a long time, as such, I can not justify the cost of the Dillon product though I am sure it is a good product.
Just not something I need.

Also you could just get the cheap hand reamer, takes a second or 2 per piece, I just swage so the pockets last a little longer. I do use the reamer to chamfer the edge on the rare occasion I get a case without a slight chamfer.

Then again, I am the definition of Cheap Celt.

 

[[email protected]]

I have the lee press linked in post 19. My Rcbs swager does not work well with that press. There is not enough clearance between the ram and the vertical section of the press. The part that removes the case from the swager rubs the press frame and also pushes the swager out some.

 

[EddieNFL]

If I can offload my RCBS dies, I think I might just do that, especially since I can make it pretty much automatic using this guide.

I gave mine away after using a Super Swage.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

That said if anyone has a comparison between the two tips and how to measure and verify it's different. I have a feeling all my methods I tried actually did work in retrospect since you could see the red primer sealant larger disappear (indicating something was removed). I also suspect issues with brass getting stuck was due to the die not being lubed and the brass needing another lube.

First off, no lube is necessary and no lube should be used when using the Swager. It's just not necessary.

If you want to see and easy way to adjust the Swager take a look at this Youtube video. It's a pretty good video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SdkA7vDeaes

 

[alsaqr]

i use a case chamfering tool in the drill press. Takes about four seconds to remove the crimp.

 

[mtrmn]

I have the lee press linked in post 19. My Rcbs swager does not work well with that press. There is not enough clearance between the ram and the vertical section of the press. The part that removes the case from the swager rubs the press frame and also pushes the swager out some.

The CH4D linked in post 17 will work with this press and all the swaging etc takes place ON TOP of the press. NOT below where the die screws in. You have plenty room to swap out brass in your shell holder which snaps into THE TOP of the die. The swager stem snaps into the ram where the shellholder would normally be. Only requires about an inch or two of press handle movement-NOT a full stroke, which boosts productivity tenfold. Once you get the tool adjusted just right, you can go through a LOT of rounds very quickly. When it comes to this tedious work, faster is better, and the brass will be easy to prime. This tool also gives you the ability to prime on the press, which I have always found much easier.

 

[traderpats]

Just so you know IF you do go with the Dillon Super Swage you hardly feel any resistance during the swaging process. The amount of material actually swaged appears to be miniscule and that is all that is needed to properly remove the crimp. I had to use one of those magnifying lights to actually see any change in the primer pocket. Just a tiny bit of material is moved and that was right at the opening of the pocket for the most part.

Barely touch the brass with the swage rod and try seating a primer. It should go in snugly, adjust from there either way if need be ...

 

[RainDodger]

I used the Dillon swager for years and years, and hassled with swaging mixed brass that had different base thicknesses.

Now I use a powered (Hornady case prep machine) reamer that takes seconds, is easy to use, and leaves a perfect, radiused (and clean) primer pocket. Works great.... and you don't have to have an expensive powered machine to use a reamer. They work by hand just as well.

As always, just my choice.

 

[choppinlow]

I have the RCBS and when done right I can see the primer pocket swagged open a bit. As mentioned, the "ring" mark remains, but the pocket has a visible slight bevel as you would expect. Perhaps you do not have it set up properly? I noticed someone said you do not need lube, and while it is not necessary I think it does make it easier (and does not cause a problem). You are swaging brass and reforming it to some extent, similar to sizing, and I think the lube can be beneficial. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Searcher4851]

There is very little brass actually being "formed" in the swaging process, and I've never even considered using lube. In fact, I'm more interested in keeping stuff OUT of the primer pocket. The CH4D swager is reasonably priced, fast, effective, and bypasses the problem with different brands of brass having different base thicknesses. JMHO

 

[RainDodger]

When I did use the Dillon swager, there was no need for any lube, at least for me. Never heard of using lube when swaging primer pockets.

Now my Dillon swager just sits though. Like I said, I gave up swaging for reaming.

 

[hentown]

I hate to state the obvious, but why wouldn't you just try seating a primer? Wouldn't that kind of answer your questions and not require the posting of pics, etc.??

 

[kingmt]

The other post about the CH4D is the same as I would say. I'd like to add is pay the $2 or so for a extra ram so you don't have to change that tiny screw if you get the team prime with it. Seems look everything was $35 shipped.

 

[Swampman]

I have the RCBS swager, but I really never liked it and preferred just using a Wilson case chamfer tool. I recently borrowed a friends Dillon and love it, just be aware that you'll have to sort your brass to use it since it has to be adjusted for a particular web thickness.

No matter what method you use to remove the crimp, you really need to actually prime a few of the newly swaged or cut cases as you process them. It's the only way to tell if you're doing it correctly.

 

[SSN Vet]

if I'm doing a bunch, I chuck a case chamfer tool in the drill press (5/8" dia. chuck) and hold the brass in my hand with a rubber dish washing glove (for grip).

I bump the primer pocket into the chamfer tool (spinning at the DPs lowest speed) with a calibrated "umph" and immediately let off as soon as a see a shaving start to peel (which happens very quickly).

 

[GLOOB]

Yup. Don't worry about getting it exactly the right depth. Just hit 'em with the chamfer and move on. The fact that the cutting swath gets wider the deeper you go makes the cutting somewhat self-limiting.

Then keep a chamfer tool chucked up in a hand drill next to the press while you're priming. If a primer doesn't start easily, you can fix it right there. Maybe a crimped pocket slipped through, you need to open up a decrimped pocket a little more, or if even a non-crimped pocket is being a little stubborn, it doesn't matter. If the primer doesn't start easily, take it out and hit it with the chamfer.

 

[straight-shooter]

A couple weeks ago I picked up the RCBS Bench mounted swager. Similar to the Dillon Super 600. The RCBS is just as convenient and got the job done in a short fashion. The primers seat perfectly with a good amount of resistance and proper feel using a hand primer. Thumbs up for the RCBS.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/319662/rcbs-bench-mounted-primer-pocket-swager

There's a rebate available for $10 off

 

[highlander 5]

I've a Dillon 600 bolted to a x12 that I can clamp to my bench if needed. Tried the RCBS swage tool thatattaches to the press and never had good luck with it.

 

[Ken70]

The swagging proponents just can't deal with being able to do the job without sorting headstamps, adjusting for each of those, and paying close to $100 or more for the "tool". A $5 reamer just is too simple, direct, inexpensive, for them. Typically Windex and Simple Green drinkers.....What color is CH4D equipment? I need that info to tweak them.

 

[1SOW]

I've tried three methods of removing 9mm WCC brass crimps with mixed results.

I use a drill press with a post in a vice to hold the case. The depth of cut is controlled by the D.P. stop. 5 seconds each case. SOME WCC cases are thicker from the bottom of the flash hole to the opening in the case. A little finesse has to be used to not remove too much brass on these.

1. Tried just chamferring: 3-4% light strikes (100 rds). Second hit fired them. Went to bigger chamfer, same results.
2. Used a wire sized drill to remove crimp: 2% Light hits (hundred rds)
3. Just bought and started using the Hornady "Reamer" bit in my drill press. For the first time, seating the primers now feels and looks exactly the same as with standard WIN cases. I use a turret press and can feel the difference when seating the soft Federal primers.

I expect the next 100rd test to be 100% successful. I'll test next week.
These are really superior cases if the primer seating problem is fixed.

 

[EddieNFL]

A couple weeks ago I picked up the RCBS Bench mounted swager. Similar to the Dillon Super 600.

Just googled it. Got to be miles ahead of their die set.

Typically Windex and Simple Green drinkers.....

I like that analogy. Windex has been around as long as I can remember, is very popular and works great. Don't know much about simple green, but it's a great cleaner.

What color is CH4D equipment?

The die set is unfinished steel, but their presses are black. I would go with a Michael Jordan comparison - fast, strong, champion...

 

[BBDartCA]

Might I suggest buying a very inexpensive single stage press like the one offered by Lee. Like This One.

When using the RCBS system with that Lee press, there is not enough clearance at the bottom of the press for the cup that used to remove the brass from the mandrel. It still works but its clumsy and slows the process. I find the RCBS to not remove enough of the sawge on 30-06, 308 brass - I still have to kiss the brass with the Lyman hand swage cutter to avoid excessive force or damage when priming. But on crimped primers like you see with HXP, it works great.

 

[mtrmn]

The swagging proponents just can't deal with being able to do the job without sorting headstamps, adjusting for each of those, and paying close to $100 or more for the "tool". A $5 reamer just is too simple, direct, inexpensive, for them. Typically Windex and Simple Green drinkers.....What color is CH4D equipment? I need that info to tweak them.

CH4D is black, IMO should be Caterpillar yellow-heavy duty and gets the job done. No problems with different headstamps, costs about 40 bucks or so with shipping. Does a fine job of priming on the press as well. I swage literally thousands of rounds, so I need something that gets it done in the least amount of time and effort-so far this is it.

I've accumulated a lot of different colored equipment over the last 31 yrs of reloading, some I use and some just sits off to the side because I found something better or I realized it was really unnecessary for my purposes.
When I find something that stands out from everything else I try to inform others so as to be a help to fellow reloaders. You have the right to decide for yourself (at least for now) what you like best in your situation.