hso,
Here is what I settled on:
I like for the crook to be fairly open, it allows you to quickly hook, but also lets you easily disengage. This crook is too deep for a “training” cane (would not be safe), but is more than adequate for normal hooking AND throws.
-------------------------------------------------------------
I put some grooves in the other end of this livestock cane (1” hickory cane), the purpose for them is twofold.
First, it makes a good grip when you reach out the full length of the cane to hook something.
Second the grooves “bite” into the skin…when choking up on the cane for techniques such as a Figure Four on the arm or a combination F4/throat take down.
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Finally, the bevel you see at the end of the crook is a useful feature too.
Besides helping to guide objects into the crook, it is covertly a “pointed end” that is used to apply pressure to areas like the clavicle or ribcage of the back.
Some tactical/defensive canes have very aggressive (and obvious) points. With these….you run the risk of having the cane “confiscated until needed” certain places such as Airplanes.
Mine is easily explained away as a space saving storage feature. When placed upon a counter/table top, the bevel directs the cane underneath….keeping it out of the way, but leaving it readily accessible.