How many coats of Formby's Tung Oil

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ithaca49

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Well, I have been refinishing a walnut stock on my really old mossberg 500. I have 4 coats on as of today it it is looking good. i have rubbed it down with steel wool between each coat. How many more coats do I have to do yet? How long do you guys wait between each coat?

Thanks
 
For me, I start out with 000 steel wool between coats and after the 5th coat is when I switch to 0000. And, I never wait less than 24hrs between coats- sometimes more if a stock feels tacky.

Now you have several coats on- that shouldn't keep you from enjoying your rifle- you can always pick up where you left off on the coat application when time and gumption works out.
 
Thanks, so 10 coats would be enough then. I think thats what i will do. I have been buffing with 0000 steel wool between each coat. The gun will spend 90% of its life in a safe so I'm not horribly worried. If i were to apply more coats later, do I have to clean the stock somehow to get any oils off?
 
"If i were to apply more coats later, do I have to clean the stock somehow to get any oils off?"

If you don't clean it, it could take a long time for the new coats to dry/harden. But, it's easy enough to swab it down a couple times with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits, that should completely remove any surface contaminants, then burnish the surface with 4/0 steel wool before applying a new coat.
 
Well, 13 coats later buffing between each coat with 0000 steel wool this is the result:
154978_1369643499411_1781442649_701477_7753017_n.jpg

I'm really happy how it turned out!

(yes, I know that there is a bottle of lubridurm in the background, didnt realize that until after the picture lol)
 
The results are stunning compared to a factory finish. Btw: Use the lubriderm on your skin & not the stock !!! Ha-ha was just kidding you !!!!!!
 
It looks good! If you use rottonestone and BLO on a felt pad to buff it all out,I think the end results would astound you.(NOT rottenwood,fixed it!)
 
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If you use rottonewood and BLO on a felt pad to buff it all out,I think the end results would astound you.
Click to expand...

what are these? been looking for something for a final buffing to REALLY deepen and bring out a good shine.
 
jimmyray,

This method can even be applied after just BLO and steel wooling? I've got an older Rem. mdl 33 rifle I've finished, just w/BLO and rubbing. If this process will improve my finish, I'll get some and try it. Just mix the powder with BLO, apply on the felt pads and rub? Thanks for your suggestions and help. Jim
 
Just mix the powder with BLO, apply on the felt pads and rub?
Click to expand...
I use this method on any oil finish even an old one. I pour some BLO into a small container and dab the pad in it on one side. I put my rottenstone powder in an old pepper shaker(it even looks like ground black pepper) and shake it onto the moistened pad. I then buff evenly and with with slight pressure. After I have buffed the entire area,I usually finish off with a soft,cotton cloth. Just rub the entire surface like you were polishing a piece of furniture. A tub of rottenstone and a quart of BLO will last forever(more or less). Don't wax the stock afterwards.
 
If you go to Rockler.com, pick up some sanding sealer. I've refinished MANY stocks and all came out well, but, using the sanding sealer to fill in the pores of the wood reduces the number of coats of finish you need to pull off the same feat significantly. It really is that last little jump from a well finished stock to a fantastic stock.
 
jimmyray,

Thanks for answering back, I truly appreciate your time and expertise. I'll get some powder ordered and give this a whirl, it will give the others in the safe a "glimmer of hope" too! LOL Thanks again and have a Merry Christmas.
 
Just placed an order with Brownells this morning for the rottenstone and pads, will let you know how things look after receiving and giving them a go on the stock. Again, thanks for your help jimmyray!!:)
 
You're welcome! If you don't like the soft warm look of the finish after the rottestone,just wax it and buff it 'til it shines!
 
are we talking simple paste wax here? or like turtle wax? or is there a special stock wax? i LOVE high shine!
 
If you like high shine, don't bother with the rottenstone, which is intended to cut the high gloss/glare and make it look like an older satin oil finish.
 
Several coats of cheap furniture polish, to give you a waxy buildup, if the finish is a bit porous. Or, more preferably on a better sealed stock, a good Gun Stock Wax. Birchwood Casey makes one that;s generaly easy to find and works well.

And, what I've found that works really well for a higher gloss and more weather resistant finish is to lay a good coat of wax down on your stock, let it dry drown a bit, then run over it with a silicone gun wipe, to buff it out. It'll make your wax job sparkle, if you want high gloss!!
 
thought id toss this in too. this was given to me by an antique refinisher. he does huge pieces so cant buy the little bottles. but from what i can tell its close to tru oil for shine and drying time. 1 part varnish, 2 parts linseed oil, 3 parts turpentine.

run the same 0000 steel wool and tack cloth to remove the steel filings. figured the hardcore DIY guys might like this
 
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The finishing touch is wax, I suggest, after the last coat of Tung oil. I like Birchwood Casey's gunstock wax, but any good furniture paste wax made with Carnuba is OK. - CW
 
I'm here to tell you guys, the jimmyraythomason that posts on this forum, definitely knows his stuff when it comes to re-finishing a rifle stock !! As I've posted on here, about re-doing a stock for a Remington model #33 that was in sad, sad shape. The material, the know-how and guidance I've received from him has turned that ol' splinter-box of a stock into one of the nicest ones in my gun locker, bar none!! A couple of days ago, I finished putting the 8th coat of BLO on the stock, following jimmyrays' instructions was the easiest part of this whole project. Thank you jimmyraythomason, you're a master at your craft!:evil:
 
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