How many layers of plywood for my new bench?

[cfullgraf]

All good information so far.

To add me 2 cents, rigid is the key. Any flex in the joints or members is undesirable.

There are many ways to increase the rigidity of the bench and mounting ut to the wall is an easy, simple way for most applications.

Making it heavy is another.

For free standing press stands, a wide base is necessary in part to distribute the load and make it less tippy, but also to give you a place to stand on. (Remdmber the heavy part above?)

Finally, I would glue all joints in addition to a mechanical fastener. My preference would be bolts (Remember the rigid part?). If there is flex in the joints, they will get loose making the bench useless over time.

Have fun with your build.

GW Starr provided some impressive information, details, and design. An excellent starting point fi s wood bench.

 

[DM~]

Just in case you want to build one right out of a tree, here's how i build mine...

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=6984862#post6984862

It's still doing it's job! lol

DM

 

[PhotoBiker]

Two layers with about 5 coats of Poly have done quite well by me.

 

[Kurastduuks]

I've manufactured plywood for years and you'll be well served with 2 3/4" panels of standard cdx. That would be more than sufficient for any reloading bench.

 

[Otto]

I am building a new bench for reloading, and I plan on using the sears 6' metal bench frame and then "glue and screw" some 3/4 sheets of plywood for the bench top.

Sears makes a butcher block top for their bench frame. It's 1 1/2" thick and it's stronger than two pieces of plywood.
Plus, you will not need to cut, glue, sand or apply a finish. It looks good too.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00914961000P?mv=rr

 

[Kevin Rohrer]

I stayed away from plywood because of the cost and went with 2x12s" and 2x10s". I also didn't use nails (which will work loose over time) or screws for the most part as I didn't think they were sturdy enough. I did use long screws to attach the top to the base, and they have done a good job of staying together.

The bench is bolted together using 5/8" bolts. Much stronger and can be dissasembled easily. This bench isn't going anywhere, no matter how much force I need to apply. And I have had to apply LOTS of both upward and downward force when resizing 7.62mm MG brass.

An early pic:

 

[smovlov]

I also like to add a masonite top to my benches. Its cheap, smooth, dont have to paint anything, and if it gets torn up its easy to replace. I usually fasten it with small nails and it holds well. The 1/8" variety has worked well for me.

 

[dsm]

My bench top is 3/4" oak plywood and have 5 presses mounted in a row and I have no issues. Top is screwed to kitchen cabinets for the base.

 

[GW Staar]

Thanks for the info GW Staar! That looks like it would be cheaper than the Sears metal legs, and that way I could paint the entire thing The right shade of blue, because I'm taking a big sip of the blue kool aid.

Is there a website or other reference to those plans? I'm still a little new to carpentry, but I'm trying to learn. I would probably have Home Depot make the cuts for me since I don't have a saw table. How many 2x4 would I need? Would I want the pressure treated or just the standard plain?

Thanks for the info!

The plans came of a project I did on my own bench which started life as a bench to work on motorcycle motors on. I had to beef it up to convert it to a reloading bench when I got displaced from my original reloading room. Wife needed the space.....and I'm so magnanimous. Being a building contractor and having done structural engineering for many years I had the tools and knowledge do it right, and I was taught to share.
Though my own bench has drawers and a middle leg, neither are necessary for rigid 2'x8' bench. I also added 2 extra 2x4's and some quarter-round to each leg for looks. I have pictures demonstrating those too.

For your information, if you just right-click on a picture then click "view image data", you will see that this comes from a photobucket account.

Under "Location" is the picture's .jpg url: "http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Bench%20Remodel/BENCH4.jpg"

If you copy it all except "BENCH4.jpg" to the clipboard, you will have a direct url to all my open to the public Photobucket torsion beam bench pictures.

Like this: http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Bench%20Remodel

Pressure-treated stuff is on the rough side....I wouldn't like it.....but then neither do termites.

 

[GaryL]

One thing I've thought of doing, and have not seen posted here, is a recessed bench front for a free standing application. It should be exceptionally stable if it is well built. So instead of the torque being applied in front of the front legs, it would be behind them, and the torque would help hold the bench in place. Then add some low shelves underneath for components and ammo for mass, and it won't ever move. Unless the ammo's gone and there's no bullets for weight.

 

[DM~]

That's one of the advantages of the CO-AX press. It can be mounted pretty much anywhere in the bench top.

I like mine recessed into the top like this,



and as you can see, i rotate it toward me a bit too.

DM

 

[Rule3]

The plans came of a project I did on my own bench which started life as a bench to work on motorcycle motors on. I had to beef it up to convert it to a reloading bench when I got displaced from my original reloading room. Wife needed the space.....and I'm so magnanimous. Being a building contractor and having done structural engineering for many years I had the tools and knowledge do it right, and I was taught to share.
Though my own bench has drawers and a middle leg, neither are necessary for rigid 2'x8' bench. I also added 2 extra 2x4's and some quarter-round to each leg for looks. I have pictures demonstrating those too.

For your information, if you just right-click on a picture then click "view image data", you will see that this comes from a photobucket account.

Under "Location" is the picture's .jpg url: "http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Bench%20Remodel/BENCH4.jpg"

If you copy it all except "BENCH4.jpg" to the clipboard, you will have a direct url to all my open to the public Photobucket torsion beam bench pictures.

Like this: http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad195/gstrad/Bench%20Remodel

Pressure-treated stuff is on the rough side....I wouldn't like it.....but then neither do termites.

Dang! Get a real bench! You can build me one anytime.!

 

[Potatohead]

Nice "jam box" there DM

 

[Shrinkmd]

Silly question: I can only fit a 7' bench and not 8. For the lengthwise pieces, should I just subtract 1 foot from each of them? I assume the legs stay the same.

Also, to make sure it is level, would I need leveling feet and drill them into the two legs? I'm not sure my garage floor is perfectly flat. And then attaching the plywood bench top, would I screw it on from above or could I do it from below, depending on the right length of wood screws?

Thanks again for the great info. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

 

[Hungry1]

I'm a little late to this thread, but I used a modified version of these plans for my bench.

http://www.somerssportsmen.com/bench.pdf

 

[Ken70]

Silly question: I can only fit a 7' bench and not 8. For the lengthwise pieces, should I just subtract 1 foot from each of them? I assume the legs stay the same.

Also, to make sure it is level, would I need leveling feet and drill them into the two legs? I'm not sure my garage floor is perfectly flat. And then attaching the plywood bench top, would I screw it on from above or could I do it from below, depending on the right length of wood screws?

Thanks again for the great info. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

I was gonna post something about why someone with the kind of income a psychologist in New Jersey could earn and PAY someone to make a bench; but I won't....

 

[Shrinkmd]

I was gonna post something about why someone with the kind of income a psychologist in New Jersey could earn and PAY someone to make a bench; but I won't....

For many things, it is more meaningful if you do it yourself. People who focus exclusively on earning and paying people to do things often feel unhappy and dissatisfied, as they wind up missing out on some of life's more rewarding moments.

I have no problem paying Mr. Dillon and his friends in Scottsdale to put together that press, however

 

[GBExpat]

Since the years that I helped care for my folks who had stroked, my sister has referred to my firearms and woodworking hobbies as my Therapy.

And I still consider them to be part of my daily, um, Maintenance Therapy Regimen. I find reloading, especially, to be calming.

 

[stavman11]

Silly question: I can only fit a 7' bench and not 8. For the lengthwise pieces, should I just subtract 1 foot from each of them? I assume the legs stay the same.

Also, to make sure it is level, would I need leveling feet and drill them into the two legs? I'm not sure my garage floor is perfectly flat. And then attaching the plywood bench top, would I screw it on from above or could I do it from below, depending on the right length of wood screws?

Thanks again for the great info. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

a simple answer is Yes

Reduce all the Length pieces by 12"
Basicaly A,D,E & F would be shortened by 12"


And i agree... I pay people to work on my Diesel truck.. what do ya really do with 14qts of Oil...LOL

But I enjoy the tinkering and doing projects Myself... yes it is a therapy for sure...

just like Tinkering with Loads, Cleaning my Guns, Flying RC Planes... its all the same, well Kinda

have fun Building it Bud


Stav..........

 

[DM~]

And i agree... I pay people to work on my Diesel truck.. what do ya really do with 14qts of Oil...LOL

I mix it 50/50 with clean diesel, double filter it, and pour it into my fuel tank for summer fuel. My diesels run just fine on it, and i get some payback on my oil purchase.

If i'm REALLY lazy, i use it to start fires in my woodstove...

DM

 

[GW Staar]

Silly question: I can only fit a 7' bench and not 8. For the lengthwise pieces, should I just subtract 1 foot from each of them? I assume the legs stay the same. Yes, and Yes (at least if you want close to a 36" high bench).

Also, to make sure it is level, would I need leveling feet and drill them into the two legs? I'm not sure my garage floor is perfectly flat. And then attaching the plywood bench top, would I screw it on from above or could I do it from below, depending on the right length of wood screws?

Thanks again for the great info. I'll post pictures when I'm done.

The way to level your bench can best be explained with an example, then you can adjust for your own situation:

First, cut all the horizontal parts of the bench, then lay them out on the floor where they go. Then, using a level follow the bubble and find the highest corner and start there.(bubble always moves in the vial to the high side)

Now for the example:

1: High corner in this example is the front right corner (this corner is where you just use the plan measurements on the leg).....so from there level the right end 2x4 and shim up the low end until level and measure the void under it. (example is 1/4")

2: Measure up the wall on that end, the plan's "H" measurement, 35-1/4"+1/4" and mark the wall at 35-1/2" from the floor.

3: Level the long back 2x4 by lifting the low end, shim, and measure the void under the low end. (example...left side is another 1/8" lower)

4: Measure up the wall on the left side 35-1/2"+ 1/8" and mark the wall at 35-5/8" from the floor. Chalk a line between marks and you have where the back 2x4 support goes.

5: Last corner: level the same way, the left end 2x4.....example is another 1/4" lower. So then that leg's "H" cut measurement is 35-1/4 +1/4"+1/8"+1/4" or 35-7/8" long.

As a final check level the front beam member, you should find after shimming the low end, that it's 5/8" lower than the other end.

On the top...do screw it on, from the top, with lots of 1-1/2" deck screws. With this design, the top provides additional resistance to torquing. When you stroke the press, besides trying to twist the heavy beam, you attempt to lift the top from the back wall.

Drill and countersink. Below flush allows you to hide the screws with putty if you plan to paint it all blue. If you stain use twice as many small head trim screws also counter sunk. Color putty them after you stain and varnish.

Cut your top to fit the support members exactly, then add a 3/4"x1-1/2" trim all the way around giving you a 3/4" overhang. I like to notch my trim so I can mount my presses 3/4" further back....but that's a personal option. You mount the presses using 6" bolts and use the wide fender washers (2 each) above the nuts to distribute the holding powder across beam members.

Obviously. this isn't the only way to build a bench, but combining the cheap material price, short build time, and a rock solid beam makes it attractive.

 

[Shrinkmd]

I'm making progress, glued, clamped, and screwed the benchtop plywood together, and I glued & screwed the three pieces of the torsion beam together. Everything is drying overnight, so I will try assembling the frame tomorrow or the next day.

Questions:

1 - How many screws to put the top on? One every inch, two inches? A double row or just singles along the edge? Should I use wood glue/liquid nails on the frame as well? And should I add some screws into the torsion bar as well, or only around the edge of the frame?

2 - I was going to ask about using a water based stain on wood putty, but I did a quick search and found Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, which can be stained with their water based stains and finished with their topcoats. One problem solved, just gotta find some since Home Depot didn't have it.

3 - I'm still a little confused about the leveling process. I haven't tried the measuring yet, so I will and get back to you

4- When mounting presses on the front edge, the big bolts will be going through the torsion bar, right? I hope I don't hit any of the many screws I used in between those three layers! I guess a metal drill bit will chomp right through?

5 - Is it worth putting on the pre-treatment for the water based stain? I usually use oil based stains, so it isn't an issue. I know I'm making a giant blueberry colored bench, not a fine rifle stock, but I don't want it to be blotchy. I've done several stocks and other items before with stain, so I have some experience with this. Also, I'm planning on assembling everything first, then doing some light sanding on the legs and benchtop prior to staining.

6- Tell me more about adding the trim pieces. I assume that I would be purchasing 3 pieces of 3/4"x1-1/2" lumber or just screwing them onto the sides to cover the laminated plywood. Do you need to know the dimensions of your press prior to notching the trim, or can you do it after the long piece is installed?

I was tempted to PM, but I figure other people will be building and the knowledge is a good thing to share.

 

[GW Staar]

I'm making progress, glued, clamped, and screwed the benchtop plywood together, and I glued & screwed the three pieces of the torsion beam together. Everything is drying overnight, so I will try assembling the frame tomorrow or the next day.

Questions:

1 - How many screws to put the top on? One every inch, two inches? A double row or just singles along the edge? Should I use wood glue/liquid nails on the frame as well? And should I add some screws into the torsion bar as well, or only around the edge of the frame?

If you glue the top on, screws every 6" is plenty....no glue double that. Gluing the frame isn't necessary as long as you screw it together with doubled 3" deck screws (see drawing).....especially if you ever plan on moving it. But you can of course. Screw into the torsion beam across the front member and the rear member.....but plan ahead...try not to put screws where your press bolts want to go through. Also screw to the back and side supports.

2 - I was going to ask about using a water based stain on wood putty, but I did a quick search and found Minwax® Stainable Wood Filler, which can be stained with their water based stains and finished with their topcoats. One problem solved, just gotta find some since Home Depot didn't have it.

You are on your own with the water-based stains. I've never used them. Not that they're bad, I just don't have any experience with them....old fashioned oil base type. Oil-based stains aren't blotchy, but sometimes some woods don't take stains well everywhere. The trick is to add just a little stain to tint the finish varnish.....to even things out. I'd think you could do the same thing with water-based finishes....but make sure stain and finish are compatible chemically.

3 - I'm still a little confused about the leveling process. I haven't tried the measuring yet, so I will and get back to you

Read and do one step at a time.

4- When mounting presses on the front edge, the big bolts will be going through the torsion bar, right? I hope I don't hit any of the many screws I used in between those three layers! I guess a metal drill bit will chomp right through?

Yes you go through the beam with 6" bolts. Use large fender washers above the nuts. Try to miss the nails. If you can't, don't try to drill too fast with too much pressure or the bit will try to go around.


5 - Is it worth putting on the pre-treatment for the water based stain? I usually use oil based stains, so it isn't an issue. I know I'm making a giant blueberry colored bench, not a fine rifle stock, but I don't want it to be blotchy. I've done several stocks and other items before with stain, so I have some experience with this. Also, I'm planning on assembling everything first, then doing some light sanding on the legs and benchtop prior to staining.

Again, not an expert with water-based stains. See answer above. Blueberry!....amazing. Should be an interesting experience.

6- Tell me more about adding the trim pieces. I assume that I would be purchasing 3 pieces of 3/4"x1-1/2" lumber or just screwing them onto the sides to cover the laminated plywood. Do you need to know the dimensions of your press prior to notching the trim, or can you do it after the long piece is installed?

The plywood should be the same size as the frame. I used putty covered finish nails to mount the trim. I mounted my presses first, then trimmed around them. I used a drum sander in a drill to make an indent for the press handles where needed. I didn't glue it, because I may want to change equipment some day, and re-trim.

I was tempted to PM, but I figure other people will be building and the knowledge is a good thing to share.

As long as this is your thread you're making me get wordy in it's okay.

 

[horsemen61]

I got lucky and bought a. Very nice old desk for five bucks

 

[Sam1911]

1 - How many screws to put the top on? One every inch, two inches? A double row or just singles along the edge? Should I use wood glue/liquid nails on the frame as well? And should I add some screws into the torsion bar as well, or only around the edge of the frame?

Every 6" along the edges, every 8" in the field is plenty. Especially if you're gluing it, too.

3 - I'm still a little confused about the leveling process. I haven't tried the measuring yet, so I will and get back to you

You're basically using a level to find the highest spot where a leg will go and then calculating how much extra length to add to the other legs to get the bench to sit level. Nothing wrong with adjusting it for a more precise fit after the fact, if you have to.

4- When mounting presses on the front edge, the big bolts will be going through the torsion bar, right? I hope I don't hit any of the many screws I used in between those three layers! I guess a metal drill bit will chomp right through?

Yup, too many screws can be a pain, and don't help anything. You can drill right through the beam for long bolts, or if your bolt holes land over solid wood just use lag screws. Plenty strong for the application. If all you're able to hit is a single layer of plywood, I'd use a through-bolt with a fender washer behind the nut.

6- Tell me more about adding the trim pieces. I assume that I would be purchasing 3 pieces of 3/4"x1-1/2" lumber or just screwing them onto the sides to cover the laminated plywood. Do you need to know the dimensions of your press prior to notching the trim, or can you do it after the long piece is installed?

I'd install the trim and get everything finished before mounting anything. Then set the press where you'll want it to go and mark around it to show you what will have to be removed. Then score and pare away the trim carefully with a sharp chisel for a clean job.