How much remaining barrel life on a Rack Grade M1 Garand?

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Scout21

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I'm considering a rack grade Garand in the future, but I'm concerned about how many shots the barrel would have left in it. I don't want to get a rack Grade just to have to rebarrel it in a thousand rounds. This is what CMP has to say on the barrel condition of a rack grade.

"Bores will be dark and poor; the barrel crown may be nicked, and the muzzle may gauge more than “3” on muzzle gauge. The Throat Erosion may gauge more than “5”."
 
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Rack grade barrels are near the end of their lifespan. If you care about accuracy its not the way to go but the rifle will still function and could be a decent plinker. It depends on what you are looking for.

That being said, I got a field grade several years ago that gauged 2 1/2 and can mostly hold the 10 ring of an SR1 target at 100 yds.
 
How cheap are those?
If I get a garand rebarreling it would be part of the plan.
I saw one I would have to say calling it rack grade would be optimistic go for $950 at a local estate sale. I'm pretty sure they aren't worth that much.
 
If I was buying a rack grade from the CMP I'd want to personally pick it out. There will be defects other than the well used barrel, such as the stock condition, and I think they might put on aftermarket parts from time to time.

I think that the glory days of the CMP M1 have mostly ended. Fortunately millions have made it to the civilian market. You will pay more but should be able to find something nice if you shop around.
 
Can you shoot a garand well enough to merit a new barrel? IIRC 4MOA was in spec even with a new barrel. Buy it. Shoot it. Enjoy it. Learn about how to gain more accuracy when you are ready.
 
I'm considering a rack grade Garand in the future, but I'm concerned about how many shots the barrel would have left in it. I don't want to get a rack Grade just to have to rebarrel it in a thousand rounds. This is what CMP has to say on the barrel condition condition of a rack grade.

"Bores will be dark and poor; the barrel crown may be nicked, and the muzzle may gauge more than “3” on muzzle gauge. The Throat Erosion may gauge more than “5”."

What's your level as a shooter? If you can't wring 2" 100 yd. groups out of a Garand then you probably shouldn't worry about the condition of the barrel until you can shoot to that level. It just makes more sense to learn to shoot with a barrel that's almost gone than wearing out a new one.

35W
 
I just bought one 2nd hand, pretty sure it's a rack grade. I wish I had checked the muzzle with a round for what I was paying for it. Haven't shot it yet to see how bad it shots.

20221223_220919.jpg
 
If you’re concerned about accuracy, spend a little more and get a “Special”.
It’ll have a NEW Criterion barrel and a new stock.
I did. Won a medal in my first match with it. It shoots about 2.5moa with service grade ammo, (Hornady 150gr FMJ) Under 2moa with match grade ammo (155gr A-max).

If you’re satisfied with bouncing cans and banging steel plates, a Service grade will be completely satisfactory.
Remember, these were battle implements, not target rifles!
 
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When’s the last time you saw any Garand on the open market for $750?

Buy it and hold your nose and try not to think of the fact that I got a service grade last year for the same price. …That’s what I plan on doing in the new year, FWIW.
 
You simply pays your monies and takes your chances ,as previously stated some are better than others .
I've got and old war horse that is a shooter ,although it looks as if it was used to retrack a Sherman more than once .
I simply hadn't realized while shooting it ,that the pinion was stripped ,thus unable to elevate the sight . I've since replaced the rear pinion and wind-age knob . I have several extra sets thanks to and old Gunsmith who gave them to Me years ago .
Granted those are Handloads but ain't half bad for and old beater with stock sights . They are WORTH re-barreling IMO they're HISTORY .

One of the targets right flyer was more than likely do to this knothead ,mistaking the ear guard for the sight blade as I didn't have MY glasses with Me . I've got that 0-35" blindness but still see distance pretty fairly . I NOW have GREAT GLASSES and can see almost everything with better detail .
 

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To achieve maximum accuracy with an M1 Garand it has to have a match barrel, and be bedded, and the upper handguard attached to the upper ferrule, with the barrel free floating inside. There are more match modifications. After that, a good M1 Garand will shoot 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards till it loses its tune. And you need tight rear sights.

As a service rifle, @Hummer70 lightly touches on the accuracy of the Garand in this post:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5424409

Your test vehicle is likely to give different results because a bolt gun is a totally different animal than a gas gun. IF your rifle is set up right both lugs are contacting equally and the barrel may be contacting front of receiver 360° around and your bolt face may be square.

The M14 in issue condition is known as the worst performing rifle we ever fielded. I worked product engineering for the Army Small Cal Lab at Picatinny Arsenal and I had engineering responsibility for the M14 until the Chief transferred me to the Dover Devil MG project. While there my board was adjacent to Julio Savioli who was the draftsman for the M14 rifle and his name is on all the drawings for it. Al Cole was engineer in charge of the M14 and he was also a friend. Savy (as we called him) was a wealth of information on the M14 and had all kinds of stories about it as he not only did the drawings, he was in on the field testing.

First off consider the requirement facts from the engineering files from the government weapons production efforts.

1. acceptance accuracy for 1903 Springfield was 3" at 100 yards.
2. acceptance accuracy for M1 Garand was 5" at 100 yards.
3. acceptance accuracy for M14 was 5.5" at 100 yards and was waivered continually as it could not meet that.
4. acceptance accuracy for M16 series is 4.5" at 100 yards.

From SAAMI we have a recommendation of 3" at 100 yards and it is up to the vendor whether he wants to meet this or not.

H&R also made M14s and M1s and the contracts were shut down due to poor QA.

The M14 if rebuilt correctly and very few can do so is capable of acceptable accuracy. For instance the Army MTU rebuild program with rifle fired from machine rest was 10 shots in 4.5" at 300 yards. Some would go to 3" but rarely. A good bolt gun will shoot in 2" at 300 yards.

The TRW weapons were at one time thought to be good but MTU set up some exotic measurement fixture and figured out the threads in the receiver were not at right angle to the front of the receiver and from then on all their builds were on SA receivers.

If you will get a copy of Hinnant's book entitled "The Guide to Precision Rifle Barrel Fitting" you will read about a lot of the headaches manufacturers allow to get out the door even with bolt guns.

The out of square problems Bart refers to is really quite common in many vendors weapons. On a bolt gun these are easily corrected with a good lathe.

Check out http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/true.htm which will give you a working knowledge of what has to be done to make a rifle shoot well.

These processes while they can be done on a M14 are problematical because if you chuck up a M14 receiver to square the front of the receiver and you take material off the front of it, that destroys the thread timing for the barrel.

Military rifles are set up to be rebuildable at depot by just taking off a tired barrel and replacing with new. The new barrels have the threads timed so that it will snug up right before 12:00 o'clock and the barrel can be torqued on. Thusly the interface of the receiver and barrel contact points is extremely critical and must be controlled to tight tolerances. If material is removed from front of receiver the replacement barrel will not contact the shoulder with enough "crush" to have the barrel "time up" at 12:00 o'clock.

Now with after market barrels you can square the receiver face and twick the barrel to get it to time at 12:00 a bit easier but squaring the threads is still problematical.

The 1903 and 03A3 rifles were built the same way and they too have thread alignment issues. For instance I had a barrel all threaded up for 03A3 and I had three actions with no barrels that had been squared. I screwed that barrel into one receiver and it contacted first a 4:00, the next one contacted at 9:00 and the third one contacted 360°. Which means the threads were out of square on the other two actions and on the money on the third one.

The M14 can have other problems wherein the bolt lugs don't bear equally.

A quick and dirty way to tell whether you have a problem is to examine your striker indent on a fired case. The ideal barrel to action set up is to have the bore center line of the barrel and the bore center line of the action in perfect alignment. If the barrel threads are out of square the line has a bend and it first shows up as off center striker hits. You will also find bolts with striker openings drill off center as well.

The industry "recommendation" allows for 1/2 the diameter of the striker indent to be off center. Medium bolt strikers measure around .060 diameter thusly the off center condition can be .030" out of alignment.

Frankford Arsenal tested millions of primers in a big study in the 50s and it was determined the offset of the striker indent had no detrimental ignition reliability up to .020" offset but after .020 the misfire rate is increased dramatically. Bottom line is the ammo boys determine reliability is compromised over .020" and the weapon boys produce rifles with .030" offset to meet production. It is a fact of life in mass production.

Now if you want to see precision take a look at the Barnard actions and the other actions the current crop of Palma Team shooters use. Their cases come out and show visually dead center striker indents and the rifles all shoot very well.

As Bart indicates you still have the problem of out of square case heads and bolt face out of square problems. If you will dig back about 1978 time frame there was a big article by a guy named Creighton Audette who did a lot of study on this and determined out of square case heads set up even more problems and if your bolt face is out of square, the threads are out of square and the bolt lugs don't contact evenly then you have compounded problems.

So basically while your rifle may shoot much better than others is it perhaps the fact is yours has a straighter bore/action centerline, lugs contact and bolt face is more square.

Case in point I had a new commercial rifle I got in 2005 and it shot horizontal groups that holes tended to touch or almost touch. I had a looksee at bolt lugs and bottom lug was not touching. I lapped in top lug and rifle started shooting round groups.

There are other problems to be experienced such as barrel is not properly stress relieved and starts to walk. Worst I ever had was a H&R breakdown rifle in 223. It consistantly shot a 3 shot group 1.5" wide and 10" high at 100. A call to H&R revealed they did not stress relieve barrels at all. They replaced barrel and it shot 2" at 100 in a round group.

I had two very good friends who were the ordnance types for the US Secret Service. One was formerly an ammo tech at Frankford Arsenal and the other built the ammo acceptance rifles while there. At USSS they did similar except one built all the sniper rifles. They too told me that their testing with Fed Match showed what Bart has alluded to. With their budget they could handload every last round for their counter sniper rifles yet they do not.

The problem is finding factory ammo that shoots well in the first place as most factory ammo has cannelures which is a perfect thing to do to a bullet to destroy it's accuracy. Mass produced hunting bullets for the industry can be bested by using Sierra matchkings about 99% of the time so if you test hunting ammo and then handload Sierras your data will show handload is best but it is because of the quality of the projectile thus your data will be skewed.

This by no means is a complete list of problems that can be encountered and need to be overcome to achieve that one hole rifle. Bart has been around the block a few times and has experienced things 99.9% of others never dream about.

On my gas guns I FL size. If I place round in chamber I ease the op rod about half way down and release it. If I am necking only with a gas gun I will load them long to be close to the lands (within .020") and place in chamber with easy let down. Also my gas cylinder plug has an extra vent hole to bleed off port pressure a bit. My Tanker Garand has a much larger hole in gas plug to bleed off excess pressures so ejection angle is correct.

I also apply Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to gas ports or let run down op rod to keep the carbon build down.

In standing I will just pop round in mag and drop it. On my bolt guns most of them I FL size for with dies matched to the chamber so I don't move brass over .002" when sizing. Some I neck size the entire neck only and not the body. Some I partially neck size but on my bolt guns the chambers are much tighter. I guess you could say on the whole I FL all rapid fire. If you will look closely at Fed Match you will see a transistion angle between neck and shoulder that is not duplicatable in FL or Neck dies.

If you have a chrono you might also check your SD for a 30 round string between FL and neck sized. Basically shoot ten and tally, shoot next ten and tally and last 10 and tally. Shoot at 45 second intervals. You may well find a significant difference. SD of 10 or less was Marine Corps ammo room standard at Quantico for Marine Corps team.


__________________
Distinguished Rifleman High Power & Smallbore Prone
President's Hundred (Rifle) US Palma Teams(2)
US Dewar Team (2),4 Man Natl.Champ Team


This is the 200/300 yard target used in competition when the Garand was on the firing line

FQ7ihau.jpg


The highest possible score was a 5, the V's broke ties, and that was also the black. That is a 12 inch black at 200 yards. Standing and sitting rapid fire were fired at 200, 300 yards was rapid fire prone.

Standing is hard.

Qc6OqTJ.jpg

The low shots are jerking the trigger before the front sight was in the bull, or, flinching. Flinching is real. Anyway, this rack grade could hold the black, but it was very hard to do so, I had shots in the white in all stages.

Still, I beat Oswald. This is a page from Lee Harvey Oswald's USMC rifle score book


3ZFu7d6.jpg

Just this year shot another 200 yard Garand match, a bunch of us old Geezers who used to be good and one or two who were having fun with their CMP rifles. The guy next to me only had a few standing shots on target. Maybe one or two in the black sitting rapid fire and prone rapid fire. His prone was better. And I think the group as a whole were better shots than the WW2 recruits who got 20 rounds of familiarization before being sent to a combat zone! Sammy, our last living WW2 veteran had 20 rounds of familiarization in boot camp, before being second wave on Iwo Jima. On the troop ship he was issued with a M1 carbine that he had to "zero" in combat. My Uncle, 101 Airborne, had eight rounds through his 1919 Machine gun before being dropped on Normandy. There was no expectation at all that the cannon fodder sent to the front lines could or would have the ability to shoot to the mechanical accuracy of their Garands.

Sammy complained that his M1 carbine was so inaccurate it would not hit a Japanese solider at 200 yards. I have shot my M1 Carbine in 100 yard matches, I am lucky to hit the black. Sights are horribly off in elevation for one thing.
 
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And how is your vision? I hope that it is very good.

My distant vision is good for my age, but on my HK clone PTR-91’s good aperture sights,

i can’t tell whether the front post is just a tad blurry because maybe vision loss is very gradual?

And a thin black sight post on a black Shoot N See target has a lousy contrast…or it appears to be so .
Tiny dot of orange paint…?
 
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To achieve maximum accuracy with an M1 Garand it has to have a match barrel, and be bedded, and the upper handguard attached to the upper ferrule, with the barrel free floating inside. There are more match modifications. After that, a good M1 Garand will shoot 1.5 inch groups at 100 yards till it loses its tune. And you need tight rear sights.

As a service rifle, @Hummer70 lightly touches on the accuracy of the Garand in this post:

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5424409

Your test vehicle is likely to give different results because a bolt gun is a totally different animal than a gas gun. IF your rifle is set up right both lugs are contacting equally and the barrel may be contacting front of receiver 360° around and your bolt face may be square.

The M14 in issue condition is known as the worst performing rifle we ever fielded. I worked product engineering for the Army Small Cal Lab at Picatinny Arsenal and I had engineering responsibility for the M14 until the Chief transferred me to the Dover Devil MG project. While there my board was adjacent to Julio Savioli who was the draftsman for the M14 rifle and his name is on all the drawings for it. Al Cole was engineer in charge of the M14 and he was also a friend. Savy (as we called him) was a wealth of information on the M14 and had all kinds of stories about it as he not only did the drawings, he was in on the field testing.

First off consider the requirement facts from the engineering files from the government weapons production efforts.

1. acceptance accuracy for 1903 Springfield was 3" at 100 yards.
2. acceptance accuracy for M1 Garand was 5" at 100 yards.
3. acceptance accuracy for M14 was 5.5" at 100 yards and was waivered continually as it could not meet that.
4. acceptance accuracy for M16 series is 4.5" at 100 yards.

From SAAMI we have a recommendation of 3" at 100 yards and it is up to the vendor whether he wants to meet this or not.

H&R also made M14s and M1s and the contracts were shut down due to poor QA.

The M14 if rebuilt correctly and very few can do so is capable of acceptable accuracy. For instance the Army MTU rebuild program with rifle fired from machine rest was 10 shots in 4.5" at 300 yards. Some would go to 3" but rarely. A good bolt gun will shoot in 2" at 300 yards.

The TRW weapons were at one time thought to be good but MTU set up some exotic measurement fixture and figured out the threads in the receiver were not at right angle to the front of the receiver and from then on all their builds were on SA receivers.

If you will get a copy of Hinnant's book entitled "The Guide to Precision Rifle Barrel Fitting" you will read about a lot of the headaches manufacturers allow to get out the door even with bolt guns.

The out of square problems Bart refers to is really quite common in many vendors weapons. On a bolt gun these are easily corrected with a good lathe.

Check out http://www.bryantcustom.com/articles/true.htm which will give you a working knowledge of what has to be done to make a rifle shoot well.

These processes while they can be done on a M14 are problematical because if you chuck up a M14 receiver to square the front of the receiver and you take material off the front of it, that destroys the thread timing for the barrel.

Military rifles are set up to be rebuildable at depot by just taking off a tired barrel and replacing with new. The new barrels have the threads timed so that it will snug up right before 12:00 o'clock and the barrel can be torqued on. Thusly the interface of the receiver and barrel contact points is extremely critical and must be controlled to tight tolerances. If material is removed from front of receiver the replacement barrel will not contact the shoulder with enough "crush" to have the barrel "time up" at 12:00 o'clock.

Now with after market barrels you can square the receiver face and twick the barrel to get it to time at 12:00 a bit easier but squaring the threads is still problematical.

The 1903 and 03A3 rifles were built the same way and they too have thread alignment issues. For instance I had a barrel all threaded up for 03A3 and I had three actions with no barrels that had been squared. I screwed that barrel into one receiver and it contacted first a 4:00, the next one contacted at 9:00 and the third one contacted 360°. Which means the threads were out of square on the other two actions and on the money on the third one.

The M14 can have other problems wherein the bolt lugs don't bear equally.

A quick and dirty way to tell whether you have a problem is to examine your striker indent on a fired case. The ideal barrel to action set up is to have the bore center line of the barrel and the bore center line of the action in perfect alignment. If the barrel threads are out of square the line has a bend and it first shows up as off center striker hits. You will also find bolts with striker openings drill off center as well.

The industry "recommendation" allows for 1/2 the diameter of the striker indent to be off center. Medium bolt strikers measure around .060 diameter thusly the off center condition can be .030" out of alignment.

Frankford Arsenal tested millions of primers in a big study in the 50s and it was determined the offset of the striker indent had no detrimental ignition reliability up to .020" offset but after .020 the misfire rate is increased dramatically. Bottom line is the ammo boys determine reliability is compromised over .020" and the weapon boys produce rifles with .030" offset to meet production. It is a fact of life in mass production.

Now if you want to see precision take a look at the Barnard actions and the other actions the current crop of Palma Team shooters use. Their cases come out and show visually dead center striker indents and the rifles all shoot very well.

As Bart indicates you still have the problem of out of square case heads and bolt face out of square problems. If you will dig back about 1978 time frame there was a big article by a guy named Creighton Audette who did a lot of study on this and determined out of square case heads set up even more problems and if your bolt face is out of square, the threads are out of square and the bolt lugs don't contact evenly then you have compounded problems.

So basically while your rifle may shoot much better than others is it perhaps the fact is yours has a straighter bore/action centerline, lugs contact and bolt face is more square.

Case in point I had a new commercial rifle I got in 2005 and it shot horizontal groups that holes tended to touch or almost touch. I had a looksee at bolt lugs and bottom lug was not touching. I lapped in top lug and rifle started shooting round groups.

There are other problems to be experienced such as barrel is not properly stress relieved and starts to walk. Worst I ever had was a H&R breakdown rifle in 223. It consistantly shot a 3 shot group 1.5" wide and 10" high at 100. A call to H&R revealed they did not stress relieve barrels at all. They replaced barrel and it shot 2" at 100 in a round group.

I had two very good friends who were the ordnance types for the US Secret Service. One was formerly an ammo tech at Frankford Arsenal and the other built the ammo acceptance rifles while there. At USSS they did similar except one built all the sniper rifles. They too told me that their testing with Fed Match showed what Bart has alluded to. With their budget they could handload every last round for their counter sniper rifles yet they do not.

The problem is finding factory ammo that shoots well in the first place as most factory ammo has cannelures which is a perfect thing to do to a bullet to destroy it's accuracy. Mass produced hunting bullets for the industry can be bested by using Sierra matchkings about 99% of the time so if you test hunting ammo and then handload Sierras your data will show handload is best but it is because of the quality of the projectile thus your data will be skewed.

This by no means is a complete list of problems that can be encountered and need to be overcome to achieve that one hole rifle. Bart has been around the block a few times and has experienced things 99.9% of others never dream about.

On my gas guns I FL size. If I place round in chamber I ease the op rod about half way down and release it. If I am necking only with a gas gun I will load them long to be close to the lands (within .020") and place in chamber with easy let down. Also my gas cylinder plug has an extra vent hole to bleed off port pressure a bit. My Tanker Garand has a much larger hole in gas plug to bleed off excess pressures so ejection angle is correct.

I also apply Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil to gas ports or let run down op rod to keep the carbon build down.

In standing I will just pop round in mag and drop it. On my bolt guns most of them I FL size for with dies matched to the chamber so I don't move brass over .002" when sizing. Some I neck size the entire neck only and not the body. Some I partially neck size but on my bolt guns the chambers are much tighter. I guess you could say on the whole I FL all rapid fire. If you will look closely at Fed Match you will see a transistion angle between neck and shoulder that is not duplicatable in FL or Neck dies.

If you have a chrono you might also check your SD for a 30 round string between FL and neck sized. Basically shoot ten and tally, shoot next ten and tally and last 10 and tally. Shoot at 45 second intervals. You may well find a significant difference. SD of 10 or less was Marine Corps ammo room standard at Quantico for Marine Corps team.


__________________
Distinguished Rifleman High Power & Smallbore Prone
President's Hundred (Rifle) US Palma Teams(2)
US Dewar Team (2),4 Man Natl.Champ Team


This is the 200/300 yard target used in competition when the Garand was on the firing line

View attachment 1123628


The highest possible score was a 5, the V's broke ties, and that was also the black. That is a 12 inch black at 200 yards. Standing and sitting rapid fire were fired at 200, 300 yards was rapid fire prone.

Standing is hard.

View attachment 1123629

The low shots are jerking the trigger before the front sight was in the bull, or, flinching. Flinching is real. Anyway, this rack grade could hold the black, but it was very hard to do so, I had shots in the white in all stages.

Still, I beat Oswald. This is a page from Lee Harvey Oswald's USMC rifle score book


View attachment 1123630

Just this year shot another 200 yard Garand match, a bunch of us old Geezers who used to be good and one or two who were having fun with their CMP rifles. The guy next to me only had a few standing shots on target. Maybe one or two in the black sitting rapid fire and prone rapid fire. His prone was better. And I think the group as a whole were better shots than the WW2 recruits who got 20 rounds of familiarization before being sent to a combat zone! Sammy, our last living WW2 veteran had 20 rounds of familiarization in boot camp, before being second wave on Iwo Jima. On the troop ship he was issued with a M1 carbine that he had to "zero" in combat. My Uncle, 101 Airborne, had eight rounds through his 1919 Machine gun before being dropped on Normandy. There was no expectation at all that the cannon fodder sent to the front lines could or would have the ability to shoot to the mechanical accuracy of their Garands.

Sammy complained that his M1 carbine was so inaccurate it would not hit a Japanese solider at 200 yards. I have shot my M1 Carbine in 100 yard matches, I am lucky to hit the black. Sights are horribly off in elevation for one thing.

Absolutely correct a gas gun with respect to it's bolt lugs are NO different from a Bolt Rifle ,the LUGS need to have equal surface bearing on lock up and the bolt face squared to the receiver chamber . Far easier said than done but checking them are easy lapping not so much . Barrel quality now days is also FAR SUPERIOR to yesteryear and is why I'm a staunch advocate of resurrecting Historic pieces of History ,they were made soundly ,some just need a little help to fall back in favor .
One point which has changed drastically IMO is , AMMO ,selection as well as powder and quality of manufacture . I'm going to see just how inaccurate MY M14's and M1A's are . I'm fairly confident Mine will stay under 3" at 300 yd. With Handloads . It might be a spell as those are MY target sheds . Yes there are #4 out there at 165 yd. 278 yd. 340 yd and 635 yd but right now it's near impossible to even see the 1 St. one . I also have AR500 16" gongs at 1044 ,1175Yd. on the Butte , which I can't even see with the spotting scope or MY 27 power at the moment :(
 

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I thinned my Garand herd a couple of years ago when the market was up. You know which of the ones I did not get rid of? It was a beat up 6 digit Springfield rack with no finish. The barrel had been replaced in 47 but obviously carried and not shot much during Korea. The muzzle measured 2 and she is a fine accurate shooter. I won't say how much they were going for back in the early 2000s...
 
If you’re concerned about accuracy, spend a little more and get a “Special”.
It’ll have a NEW Criterion barrel and a new stock.
I did. Won a medal in my first match with it. It shoots about 2.5moa with service grade ammo, (Hornady 150gr FMJ) Under 2moa with match grade ammo (155gr A-max).

If you’re satisfied with bouncing cans and banging steel plates, a Service grade will be completely satisfactory.
Remember, these were battle implements, not target rifles!
I bought a special, I think it was called something else then, several years ago, and love it. New barrel, new stock and completely rebuilt. Mine has been great. If I was going to buy another, I would buy a special. You know what you are getting. It’s not just luck of the draw.
 
The 1 St. Garand I bought cost $112.00 delivered and it was a Service grade . I purchased a half dozen more via DCM and CMP respectively .
The Best ( Looking and all parts matching ) came via My Sargent ,as somehow he was able to purchase or acquire Legally #6 from an armory . Mine was is UN-issued 1942 according to serial #'s . In that time period I was able to purchase a very nice Winchester Model M1D . Years later I was funding another project and sold it off when prices were in the K's for those . Of course 20/20 hindsight I regret it now .
Most of Mine saw action somewhere and show it ,yet all in all shoot pretty darn good for as old and worn as they are . I believe the last Garand I purchased ran Me $260.00 delivered ,the M1D was a little over $500.00 if memory serves Me . I've since seen a # of FRANKENSTEIN Rifles come through . Sadly as with most things worth having , the earlier you purchase you're generally better served .
 
Im a bit late to the Garand party. I wanted to skip the rack grade category and all the possible issues. I decided to cry once and bought a Winchester M1D with mostly Winchester components and me.5 te1. I paid a hefty $2,500 shipped, but im happy. Now i just need to learn how to shoot it accurately.
 
The last Garand I purchased from CMP was in 2015, an M1D Special. I have not kept up with what CMP sells these days.

But, the Special grade rifles are nice. New barrel and stock, re-parkerized parts. About as new a Garand as you can get these days.

I live a few hours from Anniston and have been to the store a couple of times. Before 2010, the rack grade Granads were pretty rough. I never saw one that I felt was worth the effort. I did buy a couple field grades during my trips to Anniston. The stocks were pretty beat up and the parkerizing was worn, but the barrels were in good shape. I replaced the stocks with new ones and the guns are pretty good shooters. I bought the field grades because of their serial numbers and when they were manufactured. But I did have an opportunity to look before buying because I was at the store.

I've bought a few service grades over the years, sight unseen, and have not been disappointed with them. No, they are not new rifles, but they generally look ok and shoot about as well as any other USGI issue Garand.

My first Garand from CMP was built in November, 1941. It had a rebuild marking from the Red River Army Depot (RRAD) inside of the stock so I have decided to leave it as I received the rifle.

As I said, I've not been keeping up with what CMP has been selling since I bought the M1D. I'm sure the grade descriptions have not changed, but the quality of the rifles may more closely fit the grade descriptions than when I was actively buying Garands. In my day, one or two features might have put the rifle in a particular category, the rest of the rifle was better than advertised.

If available, I'd decide what grade you can afford and if available, get at least the next better grade. You will not be disappointed.
 
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Three for stacking
 
I saw buy one while you still can.


When I got my service grade back in the 1990's, I was disappointed in the condition of the crown and business end of the bore.

It was like private snuffy had lapping compound on his steel bore brush.

I took it out, and guess what......it shoots !

Here's a pic of me shooting 400 yard steel, with the sun in my eyes, getting solid LOUD hits CLANG

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I have a couple, the H&Rs look better to me but my best shooting one was rebuilt in the 50s and has a 1-0 barrel. From the bench it holds the 9 ring at 600yrds with me shooting it and the 10 ring with the CMP RO shooting it. The H&R was rebuilt in the late 40s and has a 2-1 barrel and shoots great also.
I ordered mine and just asked for a good shooter and the CMP came through. If you pick one up at Talladega they give you a certificate for the range.
Be careful about ammo use ammo that is built for a Garand.
 
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