How much to accurize an M1 Garand? Was it worth it?
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krs
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I haven't paid for any such work, but I've rebarreled four of my rifles, and I've performed all of the 'blueprinting' types of clearancing that allows the rifle to shoot it's best. Much of a Garand's accuracy is in the barrel and in whether or not the sights move around. A stock barrel will shoot very well if it's not excessively worn, and with young troopers busily cleaning their rifle for some drill sargeant's inspection by madly and desperately pushing a steel cleaning rod into their muzzles many of the rifles have larger than ought to be muzzles.
If the gas cylinder is loose on it's cuts at all the front sight can wave around enough to make for wide groups on target, and the rear sight aperture can also wiggle in it's track causing the same errors.
For a John Garand match legal rifle these are about all that can be done - the stock needs to fit the action snugly, the trigger group should clamp firmly, and the forward stock pieces should have a little room to move for and aft so as not to put a crimp on the barrel.
For high power match shooting where bedding is legal then a COMPETENT job of glass bedding the action can be worthwhile. The action/barrel needs to be exactly on line axially and not pressured in any direction by it's bedding or the rifle may not shoot well even with work done to it. Some HP shooters hog out their foregrips to paper thin in the hope of it not affecting their barrels but whether that helps and how much is questionable. There are a few little fitting tricks to help let the barrel stay free of onwanted loads as it heats up but in general I've just told you all about accurizing a Garand rifle.
I do think that the higher price of a certain brand of barrel is worth the money in order to get the last bit of accuracy from a given rifle, but only if the rest of the rifle is very well put together. For all others some of the less costly aftermarket barrels will work surprisingly well in the guns.
If the gas cylinder is loose on it's cuts at all the front sight can wave around enough to make for wide groups on target, and the rear sight aperture can also wiggle in it's track causing the same errors.
For a John Garand match legal rifle these are about all that can be done - the stock needs to fit the action snugly, the trigger group should clamp firmly, and the forward stock pieces should have a little room to move for and aft so as not to put a crimp on the barrel.
For high power match shooting where bedding is legal then a COMPETENT job of glass bedding the action can be worthwhile. The action/barrel needs to be exactly on line axially and not pressured in any direction by it's bedding or the rifle may not shoot well even with work done to it. Some HP shooters hog out their foregrips to paper thin in the hope of it not affecting their barrels but whether that helps and how much is questionable. There are a few little fitting tricks to help let the barrel stay free of onwanted loads as it heats up but in general I've just told you all about accurizing a Garand rifle.
I do think that the higher price of a certain brand of barrel is worth the money in order to get the last bit of accuracy from a given rifle, but only if the rest of the rifle is very well put together. For all others some of the less costly aftermarket barrels will work surprisingly well in the guns.
Grump
Member
Paid for the bedding compound and did it myself.
Worth every penny! Took a 3 MOA rifle to 2 MOA, with an ugly used GI barrel. New barrel (had to re-bed) took it to .8-1.4 MOA, which is all with iron sights and either benched or slung up.
Worth paying someone else to do it? Depends on what you want to accomplish, how much free time and expertise you have, and what amount of $$ you're willing to spend. For example, no car in the world is worth more than $50K to me, so I just don't care how "nice" they are.
Worth every penny! Took a 3 MOA rifle to 2 MOA, with an ugly used GI barrel. New barrel (had to re-bed) took it to .8-1.4 MOA, which is all with iron sights and either benched or slung up.
Worth paying someone else to do it? Depends on what you want to accomplish, how much free time and expertise you have, and what amount of $$ you're willing to spend. For example, no car in the world is worth more than $50K to me, so I just don't care how "nice" they are.
whats a good book, or dvd that shows one how to do these smithing projects by yourself. i.e, how to properly bed the rifle, and how to replace the barrel yourself. i am good with my hands and have replace dbarrels before on bolt guns. i know about headspaceing and how to get it via-ve a lathe or a chamber reamer. i know brownells sells pull through chamber reamers in 30-06. the one thing that has stopped me is th price of all the tools needed. thanks guys, brian
krs
Member
Well, then the price of the tools will still stop you, eh?
You need to be able to get the sights square with each other. There are tools for it but if you can figure out how to mount a simple angle dial type protractor onto both the front sight base and the rear sight base and dial the two of them into the same number by turning the barrel tight to the receiver it's doable without specialized tools. That pull through reamer works good for getting the headspace perfect but you also need the go/no-go guages. Barrels are sold threaded and milled for extractor cuts but about .010" shy of full chamber depth.
A Kreiger is up around $400. these days but there are others closer to $200. and then there's the Criterium or whatever it's called sold by CMP for $162. They claim to have an association to Kreiger but I'm not buying that BS story.
And yes, minute of angle shooting is not all that hard to achieve with Garand rifles.
You need to be able to get the sights square with each other. There are tools for it but if you can figure out how to mount a simple angle dial type protractor onto both the front sight base and the rear sight base and dial the two of them into the same number by turning the barrel tight to the receiver it's doable without specialized tools. That pull through reamer works good for getting the headspace perfect but you also need the go/no-go guages. Barrels are sold threaded and milled for extractor cuts but about .010" shy of full chamber depth.
A Kreiger is up around $400. these days but there are others closer to $200. and then there's the Criterium or whatever it's called sold by CMP for $162. They claim to have an association to Kreiger but I'm not buying that BS story.
And yes, minute of angle shooting is not all that hard to achieve with Garand rifles.
krs
Member
Whatever that's supposed to mean, Grump, have you seen the new BMW diesel sedans or wagons? How about $44 K and 45 mpg? eh, eh?
Them's NICE cars!
MythBuster
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Start here. This is something anyone can themselves and many times it makes a HUGE difference and it costs nothing.
http://www.eotacforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=109&t=26735
http://www.eotacforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=109&t=26735
Wireman134
Member
IMO most accurized M1's will shoot better than us rifleman can. Therese days when the stars are not aligned and such. Practice technique and consistent loads are the keys.
It's Criterion - if you're not going to 'buy it,' you should at least be able to spell it.
From the Krieger (could learn to spell that also!) website ...
" In 1999, another barrel company was started under our roof, Criterion Barrels, that manufactures button rifled barrels for the O.E.M. market. These barrels are not directly for sale to the general public by Krieger Barrels, and depending on what you are looking for, are available through distributors such as Fulton Armory, The Civilian Marksmanship Program, etc.."
http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/FAQ-c1246-wp3352.htm
/Bryan
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