How Thick of a Bench Top do I Need?

[zdc1775]

I am rebuilding my reloading setup now that I have the time and money. I have almost everything I need except for a bench. My previous setup would be way too big for my apartment. I am basically looking for something that is sturdy enough to work but not too heavy to move.

I plan on using this as a base which I believe will be more than strong enough. My current plan is to mount the press (a Lee Classic Turret) to a board which will then be mounted to the base with bolts through the holes for the plastic clamps with wing nuts to make it removable. I would just like to know how thick of a board I need.

If possible please include thicknesses for several different types of material as I will be checking the scrap bins at several local stores to see what I can find.

I would also like to thank you ahead of time for any help.

 

[Nushif]

I got a 1.25 inch board on top of the actual desk which is another inch or so to hold the same press. 8)

How much do I *need?* No clue, but that does seem to work.

 

[rcmodel]

I used a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood sawed lengthwise for a 2' x 8' x 1 1/2" top, glued & screwed together for mine 40 years ago.

It is still going strong.

rc

 

[zdc1775]

My previous table was a 2 ½’x6’ welding table with a 3/8” steel plate for a top covered with 2x6's left over from framing houses.

I was thinking that a 2x might work to mount the press on. Any opinions

 

[beatledog7]

I've been loading for a year with my press bolted to a heavy duty folding banquet style table. The top is just a .65-inch thick pressed wood screwed to a steel frame.

I set up a truss linking the leg and the top where the press is mounted to take most of the flex out of it. The press itself doesn't flex, of course.

It's not ideal, but I've had no problems. It's going to be replaced by a purpose built bench eventually, but I'm still sorting out options for that.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I'd get a quarter sheet of 7/8" ply and mount it proud, meaning larger than what it is to be mounted to, given reason/thought.

 

[oneounceload]

If your press hangs over the edge, you will want a thicker top than if it is mounted on top as the torque will be greater.

I used 3/4" doubled up, glued and screwed on 4" centers- like RC, it gives me 2 X 8 and 1-1/2" thickness

 

[highlander 5]

I wouldn't bolt a press to a Workmate. You'll either snap the wood on top or the whole thing will tip over once you put any downward force as the base is not that wide.

 

[BADUNAME37]

The thickness of the top should be directly related to how much structure is below, supporting said top. If you have 2 x 6 'joists' 12 O.C., then I would think 3/4" plywood would suffice. If you have less than that, you may want to go with a heavier-duty top, like 3/8" thick steel plate, however, a piece of that will take two men and a boy to bring in and secure to the top of the bench.

I remember, in my apartment, my first reloading outfit was on an old oil drum oak frame that was reinforced with 5/8" thick steel rods. An advantage was that one of the rods laid on the floor, directly underneath my feet, so I could help support the bench while reloading by resting my shoes (feet) onto the rod.

On that bench, I got away with two 1.5" thick (1-by) boards that I think were 1 x 10's. When full leverage was needed with the RCBS Rock Chucker, the bench would squeak and groan a bit, but was sturdy enough to the point of very little movement. Also, between the weight of the bench plus loading materials and equipment, the bench probably summed up to be about 250 to 300 pounds total.

 

[Certaindeaf]

I'd be tempted to not go the workbench route unless you have the space, and were you to have the space, I'd go with something sturdier.
One can drill a couple holes through a good cheap old dining room table (like froo or $50) that would be superior to that Black and Decker and when you're done, throw a table cloth over it for your fine dining pleasure.

 

[J_McLeod]

I looked at the Black and Decker when I started and it looked a little flimsy. I found a tool mount at Lowe's for about the same price and it's worked very well. I mounted a piece of 3/4" plywood to the top.

 

[Otto]

My bench has a 1½" butcher block top that has no flex. It has a durable urethane finish and I think it looks better than plywood. You can buy similar tops at Grizzly in various sizes.
The bench frame is all steel and quite sturdy.

 

[T Bran]

I no longer have it but at one point in time I had a huge wooden spool the type cable is delivered on. It was about 3' in diameter and 30'' tall when stood on edge. The spool ends were about 2'' thick and extended beyond the center 12'' or so. This was the best improvised bench I ever used.
1.5 to 2'' seems to be plenty for a well supported bench in my experience. BTW I'm still on the lookout for another big spool cause I'm sorry that one got away.

 

[Blue68f100]

1 bench top is 1.5" thick built from 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood like rcmodel. I also have a portable top that is 12"x48"x 1.5" Thick that I just use c-clamps to fasten to the kitchen table. I position the press so it's setting over a leg for max strength.

 

[rfwobbly]

A big bench looks nice, but the only thing that requires a "bench" is the press itself. Everything else (books, primers, powder, bullets, caliper, etc) weighs a grand total of 3 pounds and can be supported by a folding card table.

The best support is when a leg is directly under the press, and the bench is bolted to the wall. Adding those 2 design features reduces the need for a lot of "thickness" and thereby cost.

That means your most cost effective "bench" may look like this...

 

[Lost Sheep]

A 2x8, 30" long

I wouldn't bolt a press to a Workmate. You'll either snap the wood on top or the whole thing will tip over once you put any downward force as the base is not that wide.

Mine never has. Downward is not the problem. Upwards is, particularly when extracting the case from the case-mouth belling die. The whole table wants to lift up off the floor. Attaching a tether that goes down to a piece of plywood on the floor (on which my chair is setting) will cure the problem (I am still working out less involved solutions before I add another piece of wood).

I mounted my Rockchucker on a 2x6 about 30" long. I used to wedge it into the drawer of an end table) or clamp it to the top. Now, that same board (shortened) gets my Lee Classic Turret mounted.

The 2" thick board is plenty stiff, more than enough. Plus, the 2" gives enough room to countersink the carriage bolts far enough that I don't worry about scratching anything the board is clamped to.

I found the 6" dimension a little limiting, so I recommend the 2x8.

Lost Sheep

 

[Owen]

rf wobbly, I like it.

 

[Sam1911]

A sheet of decent grade 3/4" plywood*, cut in half and then glued and screwed together to form a 1-1/2" thick top (like RC Model uses) is about the easiest, cheapest, strongest top you could buy. Like almost any other top it needs to be supported well or the whole thing will move, but if your supports are solid, a 1-1/2" plywood top won't twist or flex.



* -- Avoid "OSB." I'd get something a step up from "CDX" sheathing plywood, either what most home centers sell as "Sandedply" or "BC" grade, or go a step above that for nice birch veneer stuff. You're still at only $30-$50 for a top.

 

[bbuddtec]

I'm with Lost Sheep... the upstroke really points out my opportunities to mount it better..

 

[dragon813gt]

Mine is four layers if 3/4" plywood that's glued and screwed. I needed to get the work height up. My top is over metal cabinets that are shorter than most. Otherwise it would have been only two layers.



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[Whiskey_Sour]

Here's a cheap saw horse from harbor freight, but the surface is 1-1/2" thick,
and wide enough for a Lee Classic Turret. Can't get much more portable than that. Mount the press close to one of the legs so that the force of the stroke goes down through the one of the legs: http://www.harborfreight.com/two-piece-foldable-saw-horse-set-41577.html

 

[CZ-100]

Mine is Two 1/2" sheets of plywood screwed and glued. With 2x6 and 2x4 frame.

 

[Sam1911]

Another point about bench tops is to think carefully about fastening.

Some bench equipment, like powder throwers and such, can be mounted with basic screws. Presses, though, should be mounted with much stronger fasteners that can get a better grip on the bench. If you're going into something solid, lag screws (whatever size will just fit through the mounting holes of the press -- probably 5/16" or 3/8") will usually work fine (if you can get 2-3" of full screw thread embeddment). If you're going through a bench top that's 3/4" - 1-1/2" thick, especially plywood, consider through-bolting the press with large "fender" washers on the underside. That will let you tighten the press down with a lot more pressure than a simple screw, and will resist stripping out the material as a screw can. Use lock washers or nylock nuts to keep the scews from backing out. When fixtures like this are allowed to loosen, stuff starts to strip out and/or break in a hurry.

 

[zdc1775]

Thanks for all the advise. Looks like what I was thinking will work. Time to start looking for some good quality 3/4" plywood.

 

[gamestalker]

I use an old wood kitchen table with a slab of 1 1/2" solid cherry attached to it. I don't like things moving around when I'm working. Before that set up, I used a very large very old steel safe to mount my presses on. The only thing about that set up I didn't care for was it gave me limited space for loading blocks, scale and other stuff I need at arms reach. Nothing worse than having to get up constantly to grab this or that tool.
GS