How Thick of a Bench Top do I Need?
- Thread starter zdc1775
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AABEN
Member
I used some very good 2x8 x 8ft to make my load bench. I made it solid to the wall this way I have all my dies in front when I need to change dies all so my hand primers there is also 2 presses that is mounted to it. I also made shelves above it that I have my bullets on. It is 29in high with 4x4 legs.
Rigid mounting is the key for the press. The suggestions posted will, for the most part, provide good, rigid mounting.
My presses are mounted only to 1/4 thick material and do not flex at all.
Of course, it is steel plate as part of a steel free standing floor stand. Gives me some versatility to change my reloading position easily and quickly. Also, I can store them out of the way when not in use.
My presses are mounted only to 1/4 thick material and do not flex at all.
Of course, it is steel plate as part of a steel free standing floor stand. Gives me some versatility to change my reloading position easily and quickly. Also, I can store them out of the way when not in use.
Texan Scott
Member
I don't reload- woodworking's more my thing. Still, garage space and a very solid workbench are a must. If you build your own, be willing to pay out for good thick SOLID (not ply, not pieced) hardwood. Oak is good.
If you already have the equipment you intend to mount, look at the brackets- if they look like they'll accomodate a table top a couple inches thick, there's probably a reason.
Work benches are like fine women... the good ones show their quality not by how nice they look new, but by how well they carry the pounds they're going to accumulate over the next 40 years.
Edited to say: that goes for the workbench stools, as well....
If you already have the equipment you intend to mount, look at the brackets- if they look like they'll accomodate a table top a couple inches thick, there's probably a reason.
Work benches are like fine women... the good ones show their quality not by how nice they look new, but by how well they carry the pounds they're going to accumulate over the next 40 years.
Edited to say: that goes for the workbench stools, as well....
icanthitabarn
Member
Mine is 2'x4' pressed board with plywood under. Total of 1 1/2 " The top rests on 4"x4" posts held together with 2" x 6" horizontal pieces lagged into the posts. Its strong.
rfwobbly
Member
I'm a design engineer by trade. In designing anything, I like to start with a clean sheet and let 'necessity be the mother'. This often leads to unexpected answers. Sometimes you end up with a design that answers all the questions but doesn't look a bit like your pre-conceptions.
Of course it doesn't hurt a bit that the materials needed for that "bench" can be scrounged up for free from any construction dumpster.
Gtimothy
Member
If you can, use melamine for the top layer and plywood for the bottom layer. Just glue and screw it together from the bottom. The melamine is much easier to keep clean and because it is white, makes it easier to find things that escape! (like primers and small gun parts!)
I'm actually stopping at HD after work tonight to pick up the lumber for my new bench! Been putting it off for too long!
Good luck!
GTC
I'm actually stopping at HD after work tonight to pick up the lumber for my new bench! Been putting it off for too long!
Good luck!
GTC
bigtubby
Member
I built this on a tool support had a piece of 1 1/8" plywood I believe and it was very sturdy. Added some storage below as well
jack44
Member
7/16 osb table top.
Menards had a 1.5" thick Particle board benchtop for $16. I used that plus a few (I think 4) 8' 2x4s and some plywood on the sides and back of the legs to keep them plumb.
All for less than $50 and it stands very sturdy without mounting it to the wall. It easily handles my FL sizing rifle brass and it won't shake with my shotgun reloader.
Check out the thread on "show me your workbench"
All for less than $50 and it stands very sturdy without mounting it to the wall. It easily handles my FL sizing rifle brass and it won't shake with my shotgun reloader.
Check out the thread on "show me your workbench"
ADKWOODSMAN
Member
Thirty years ago I went with an old hardwood door and a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood screwed to the top. The legs are 6X6's with braces. Works great doesn't flex or move up with an upstroke.
Clark
Member
wally
Member
The press you use makes a big difference too. IMHO most of the issues with the Lee Loadmaster are because the priming happens at the top of the stroke and any wobble in the bench will cause problems. With my bench top made from stacked 4x4s with a 3/8" plywood top (for a smooth surface) my Loadmaster works nearly as well as my Dillon, but not nearly as fast.
I'd consider 4" thick about the minimum.
I'd consider 4" thick about the minimum.
Certaindeaf
member
^
I don't think its about how thick a bench is.. 4-7" isn't magic. If one took wobbly's design and used 7" material, it really wouldn't be materially stronger or more stable than one around 2".
My "bench" is an old table with perhaps a 1.5" solid wood formica top. It's huge and heavy. The drawers are loaded down with tools etc and the undertray is loaded with stuff. It probably weighs a couple thousand pounds with what's on/in it. It don't move.
I don't think its about how thick a bench is.. 4-7" isn't magic. If one took wobbly's design and used 7" material, it really wouldn't be materially stronger or more stable than one around 2".
My "bench" is an old table with perhaps a 1.5" solid wood formica top. It's huge and heavy. The drawers are loaded down with tools etc and the undertray is loaded with stuff. It probably weighs a couple thousand pounds with what's on/in it. It don't move.
WaywardSon
Member
I made mine from an old cabinet style sewing machine for the base. Used edge glued 2" oak for the 2'X6' top. One side of the base has several drawers that are now full of bullets and dies. Weighs several hundred pounds and has given good service for many years.
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