How to Best Break Free Rusted parts.
- Thread starter sltm1
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rodinal220
Member
Kroil,PB Blaster,soak in kerosene.
mykeal, are you giving me a ventilation and fire warning or is there a chemical reaction I need to be aware of?
Rodinal, I haven't had much luck on fogre blowers w/ PB Blaster and for a soak I was recommended diesel fuel, I'll give your suggestions a try after the 1st 2.
Rodinal, I haven't had much luck on fogre blowers w/ PB Blaster and for a soak I was recommended diesel fuel, I'll give your suggestions a try after the 1st 2.
Busyhands94
Member
WD-40 works for me when i want to get rusty stuff working again. i think that might work for something like frozen nipples if you let it soak for a while, WD-40 has somewhat of a penetrating action. but for guns, i am too much of a clean freak to let any rust build up on them.
Acetone is highly flammable, vapors are explosive in presence of open flame.
Direct contact is mildly irritating to skin; direct contact is highly irritating to eyes; vapors are slightly irritating, can cause nausea so avoid prolonged exposure.
The main problem is fire hazard - keep it and vapors well away from open flame.
Direct contact is mildly irritating to skin; direct contact is highly irritating to eyes; vapors are slightly irritating, can cause nausea so avoid prolonged exposure.
The main problem is fire hazard - keep it and vapors well away from open flame.
45-70 Ranger
Member
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- Dec 16, 2010
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Over the years the use of Kroil has been fairly good. The mix that mykeal has is a good one. His views on keeping flame away from it is the real deal. I've used this mixture on some real stuborn parts in the past letting them soak for often days at a time.
On a side note, I have a spray bottle with Kroil in my toolbox in my old Blazer. The lugnuts always seam to be frozen in place when I need to change a flat! But Kroil has its limits, whereas the mix mykeal suggested is almost a sure cure to dislove rust enough to get things moving. All I can add is be paitent.
Good luck with your project,
Wade
On a side note, I have a spray bottle with Kroil in my toolbox in my old Blazer. The lugnuts always seam to be frozen in place when I need to change a flat! But Kroil has its limits, whereas the mix mykeal suggested is almost a sure cure to dislove rust enough to get things moving. All I can add is be paitent.
Good luck with your project,
Wade
Dexron and kerosene. 1:1 It's combustible but not flammable. Works as well as Dexron/Acetone, without the flammability. Diesel fuel used to be good, before it went low sulfur.
Or, electrolytic rust removal. Google it, it's fun. It reduces rust back into iron, without removing metal.
I've used straight Dexron as a rust pen, while at work-no kerosene available, and have used it to to remove rusted/galled spindle nuts.
You could always use Ed's Red. Google it. It's a good gun cleaning solvent containing kerosene, acetone, dexron, and mineral spirits in equal parts.
Every gun owner should make a batch of Ed's Red.
I've used brake cleaner and carb cleaner as penetrants, when I needed to removed rusted/gunked up lift chain anchor nuts. Gotta work fast with them. They evaporate quickly, but they also penetrate quickly.
Funny thing about Dexron. I use it to lube rusty lift chains at work, as long as they're not worn out. Apply Dexron, allow it to soak in a few minutes, and put it back into service. Come back a week later, wipe off the chains, and all the rust is gone. The chains look like new. It does a good job of removing rust.
I have a big derusting project ahead of me. A friend of mine gave me a Champion #40 forge blower. It's been outside. It's seized. I'm going to use a 55 gallon plastic drum as an electrolytic rust removal tank. One tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water, a lot of water, a manual car battery charger, and a long piece of rebar. Throw about 6-10 amps to it and it will remove rust without changing the dimensions.
Or, electrolytic rust removal. Google it, it's fun. It reduces rust back into iron, without removing metal.
I've used straight Dexron as a rust pen, while at work-no kerosene available, and have used it to to remove rusted/galled spindle nuts.
You could always use Ed's Red. Google it. It's a good gun cleaning solvent containing kerosene, acetone, dexron, and mineral spirits in equal parts.
Every gun owner should make a batch of Ed's Red.
I've used brake cleaner and carb cleaner as penetrants, when I needed to removed rusted/gunked up lift chain anchor nuts. Gotta work fast with them. They evaporate quickly, but they also penetrate quickly.
Funny thing about Dexron. I use it to lube rusty lift chains at work, as long as they're not worn out. Apply Dexron, allow it to soak in a few minutes, and put it back into service. Come back a week later, wipe off the chains, and all the rust is gone. The chains look like new. It does a good job of removing rust.
I have a big derusting project ahead of me. A friend of mine gave me a Champion #40 forge blower. It's been outside. It's seized. I'm going to use a 55 gallon plastic drum as an electrolytic rust removal tank. One tablespoon of washing soda per gallon of water, a lot of water, a manual car battery charger, and a long piece of rebar. Throw about 6-10 amps to it and it will remove rust without changing the dimensions.
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Jaymo, thanks for the tips, please let me know how the blower works out, I have one frozen Canady Otto and one frozen Buffalo I'd like to fix up and sell. If you need a fan, let me know, I have a couple I've scavanged over the years off of some truly busted up blowers, don't remember the makes and models, They're name tagged in the shop, but you'd only have shim or enlarge the shaft hole to make one work. The 2 sets of shaft bearings are going to be a bear if they're wrecked, but I got a solution for that too if you need it.
sltm1,
I soaked all of the nuts and screws with Kroil this afternoon after work. Within minutes I was able to remove all of them except for the nut that holds the pedestal onto the base. I also couldn't get the gearbox cover off. I can't tell if there are 2 rusted screws holding it on, or if they're just 2 rusted dowel pins.
I was able to get the fan off, and got the gearbox separated from the blower housing.
I got the flat bar handle and counterweight off and apart, except for the bolt that runs through the wooden, rotating handle grip. Where the grip used to be.
I have the gearbox and all the nuts/screws soaking in a 5 gallon bucket of used Dexron/Kerosene.
I"m hoping the gears/shafts are OK.
I had a good bit of powdered rust fall out of the gearbox when I removed it from the fan housing. NOT normally a good sign.
I'll let it sit in the Georgia heat until the weekend.
If that doesn't get everything loose, I'll let it sit for another week.
I don't want to have to take the hot wrench to it.
As a side note, I applied Kroil to all the shafts and such, and let them soak, before dunking it into the ATF/Kerosene mix.
I also applied the ATF/Kerosene mix to the Pedestal/base nut and stud.
I'll let it sit for a day or two and try again. If it still won't come loose, I'll reapply it or Kroil once a day until It comes loose. Or until I lose patience and decide to degrease it and stick it into the electrolytic rust remover.
I would have stuck the whole thing in the 55 gallon electrolytic rust remover, but it's about a foot too tall for the drum. I figured it would be easier to break it down into as many pieces as possible, degrease them, and then put them into the ERR.
All the suggestions I've seen in this post have been good ones. Thinned out Dexron has been tested to be as good as any store bought rust penetrant.
I have a bad feeling I will be needing to know the fix for the shaft bearings, if you would be so kind.
I'd love to be able to bore out the gearbox to take ceramic bearings. Ceramic bearings are amazing.
I need to get a replacement oiler for the blower. Someone tore the heck out of this one.
I hope you have a good evening.
I would have used acetone in my Dexron rust penetrant mix today, but I don't have any, it would evaporate quickly in this damnable heat, and it's probably not good for the polyethylene bucket.
Hopefully, by this weekend, I'll be able to get the gearbox apart and find out how bad the rust damage is.
I soaked all of the nuts and screws with Kroil this afternoon after work. Within minutes I was able to remove all of them except for the nut that holds the pedestal onto the base. I also couldn't get the gearbox cover off. I can't tell if there are 2 rusted screws holding it on, or if they're just 2 rusted dowel pins.
I was able to get the fan off, and got the gearbox separated from the blower housing.
I got the flat bar handle and counterweight off and apart, except for the bolt that runs through the wooden, rotating handle grip. Where the grip used to be.
I have the gearbox and all the nuts/screws soaking in a 5 gallon bucket of used Dexron/Kerosene.
I"m hoping the gears/shafts are OK.
I had a good bit of powdered rust fall out of the gearbox when I removed it from the fan housing. NOT normally a good sign.
I'll let it sit in the Georgia heat until the weekend.
If that doesn't get everything loose, I'll let it sit for another week.
I don't want to have to take the hot wrench to it.
As a side note, I applied Kroil to all the shafts and such, and let them soak, before dunking it into the ATF/Kerosene mix.
I also applied the ATF/Kerosene mix to the Pedestal/base nut and stud.
I'll let it sit for a day or two and try again. If it still won't come loose, I'll reapply it or Kroil once a day until It comes loose. Or until I lose patience and decide to degrease it and stick it into the electrolytic rust remover.
I would have stuck the whole thing in the 55 gallon electrolytic rust remover, but it's about a foot too tall for the drum. I figured it would be easier to break it down into as many pieces as possible, degrease them, and then put them into the ERR.
All the suggestions I've seen in this post have been good ones. Thinned out Dexron has been tested to be as good as any store bought rust penetrant.
I have a bad feeling I will be needing to know the fix for the shaft bearings, if you would be so kind.
I'd love to be able to bore out the gearbox to take ceramic bearings. Ceramic bearings are amazing.
I need to get a replacement oiler for the blower. Someone tore the heck out of this one.
I hope you have a good evening.
I would have used acetone in my Dexron rust penetrant mix today, but I don't have any, it would evaporate quickly in this damnable heat, and it's probably not good for the polyethylene bucket.
Hopefully, by this weekend, I'll be able to get the gearbox apart and find out how bad the rust damage is.
Jaymo, The original bearings were on-site factory made, when you remove the screw down bearing covers, that will be the only thing holding them in place....the cast casing is the race. You're looking at screws not dowels (if this cover is on top of the gears), you might have to drill them out and tap the holes for replacements. I had a Champion smaller than a 400 and I found complete bearing assembly's that were slightly smaller than the casted rim and slightly too small a shaft hole at a bearing specialty shop. I enlarged the shaft hole and made the outer shims from steel banding material. Got over 4 yrs of constant use out of it before trading up to real nice Canady Otto. Once you get the top off, check out the bronze main gear...if it's shot, find another blower. Send me a PM if you want and I'll go over some of this stuff over the phone. Also, no Kroil locally and kerosene is sold in 5 gal increments, tranny fluid and acetone it is. Small town living occasionally has it's draw backs.
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