Penetrating Oils

Status
Not open for further replies.

rcmodel

Member in memoriam
Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
59,074
Location
Eastern KS
For what its worth, if its worth anything?
I haven't tried it.

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various
penetrating oils . The magazine reports they tested these products for
"break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of
popular penetrating oils, with the unit of measuremerit being the
torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.

Average torque load to loosen nut:
No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ....................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix..................53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts
better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with
equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as
Kroil for 20% of the price.

ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner
in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid

This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters.

rc
 
That chart matches up with the relative effectiveness in my experience using the listed penetrants on rusted automotive fasteners over the last 40+ years, except that I have never tried the acetone/ATF mixture. With three quarts of acetone and a couple cases of various ATF quarts on hand, mixing some up 50/50 is now at the top of my 'to do' list this week.
 
Let us know how it works!!!

And Thanks for giving it a try and taking one for the THR Team!

rc
 
Oh boy here we go again! woohoo!:what:

I love the ability to take products that were designed for other applications, and use them in my Gun hobby.

Now, some will say, "I dont use Automotive products on my guns, I use only gun oils!" Feh, :neener:

An automobile is nothing more than a mechanical device that has an internal combustion type engine, lubricated by oils and greases that work at high temps. Oils suspend deposits in it til the oil change.

Now, my 1911 operates pretty much the same way, internal/external combustion device that operates at high temps, needs oils and greases to suspend carbon deposits until it's oil change and cleaning.

You can use anything you want to on your cars and your guns. :D:D

I just cannot spend $4-9 an oz on something I can mix up for $.24/oz! :cuss:

be safe.
 
We've used ATF/diesel or ATF/Kerosene mixes for a long time as penetrating oil and it works great. Never tried it with acetone though.
 
Current formulations of ATF don't mix with acetone and separate out of the mix.
Maybe the older stuff would mix. After all ATF was designed to replace Sperm Oil.
I'll stick with Kroil
Joe
 
I have also used ATF mixed with diesel. It cleans and loosens stuck parts. Its what we use in the parts cleaner.

As a grease monkey teen I've witnessed several truckers use straight ATF to fill a new fuel filter. They said it was to keep injectors running clean.
 
I have had such good luck with Kano, I have not seen the need to try anything else, plus I have a good stash of it from a previous life.
What about Kano+acetone? Anyone tried that?
 
Is this an updated version of the same thing I read on Practical Machinist a few years ago? The results were similar as I remember the ATF/acetone mix being best bit I don't remember all the other products tested.

I have tried the ATF/acetone mix and it works just as good as any other I have found. That is, sometimes it works.
 
I've tried the acetone mixes and really found them to not be worth the hassle.

But what do I know, I mix Kroil with Hoppe's #9 for cleaning.

It sort of depends on the metals/parts combinations that you are dealing with. Sometime PB Blaster works best if I have say an Al/Fe bound up situation. Sometimes heat and candle wax.

Sorta gotta try some combinations before you get the flame wrench out.
 
ATF & Acetone?

Yup!

I use it almost exclusively. Especially in "splash it on" scenarios like old lug nuts and such. Swirl it up in an old El Pato can and use a flux brush to apply though sometimes commercial spray bottles.

Most folks having trouble have mixed poorly or allowed it to sit open and a degree of acetone has evaporated off.

Works best on sun-warm objects as it is drawn in to a greater degree.

After that I like kroil and "Liquid Wrench" in that order. I've been pleased adding acetone to Kroil as well to dilute it and quicken the penetration.

I use penetrants far too much to pop for the over the counter stuff at retail but if it is used infrequently, it's hard to beat Kroil... especially on a warmed object.

Vintage cans of 3in1 make a passable penetrant as well.

Todd.
 
There is a reason why Ed's Red is an enduring favorite.

Not coincidentally, two of the four constituent ingredients of Ed's Red are...ATF and acetone.

If you keep the container sealed, the acetone does not evaporate. I use a glass bottle--not sure how ell a plastic container would work

Pretty sure this article is an older one, as I have read it multiple times before. But that does not invalidate the information.
 
Yep I've used it for years, you just have to keep it mixed well wants to separate.
I also use Oil of Wintergreen on frozen bolts or nuts.
 
When I was a kid, Coca-Cola was the go-to penetrant for rusted bolts -- pour a little on, finish off the bottle with a smoke break, and get back to it :)

I seem to recall there used to be two incompatible types of Automatic Transmission Fluid, -- one for Ford, the other for Chevy. My past three cars have been so low maintenance that I now find it easier to take them in instead of dealing with disposing of the old fluids.

So if "modern" cars have settled on a single compatible ATF I'd not know about it, but perhaps its the "other" type of ATF where the acetone separates out of the mix with.
 
Best home made pen. oil I have used was just 50/50 acetone and ATF Dexron. Some like it hot.
 
ATF and acetone may be great on all-steel parts, but I advise against using it on polymer frames or stocks with finish on them.

Bill Jacobs
 
I tried the mix and found out post #6 by Jolly Rogers is dead on.

I used Dexron III and it will not incorporate with the Acetone ,the red dye does and will make all the fluid in the glass container look red, but a closer inspection will reveal a parting line between the ATF and the Acetone, it's been setting for 30 days or better.

Bet the synthetic make up of Dexron is the culprit. Bet the older sperm oil ATF would mix.

I might be confused but some one will straighten me out, 1970 was the cut off on whale oil which was the main ingredient in the ATF, after that point GM came out with the Dexron copyrighted name, and that's when ATF went 100% synthetic.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top